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fbStudio

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  1. Strange. The pt100 from e3d should work. I've also used them. The 110 ohm is OK.  If you just heat or cool it outside of the printer  (like warm it up in your hand) does the ohm reading change?

    And if you get it to work you know you need to change pid settings for that big block right?

    I'm having a hard time getting the sensor out of the block, but I heated up the nozzle, turned off the machine and measured the resistance.

    It didn't change. Still 108 ... what is going on?!?

  2. Strange. The pt100 from e3d should work. I've also used them. The 110 ohm is OK.  If you just heat or cool it outside of the printer  (like warm it up in your hand) does the ohm reading change?

    And if you get it to work you know you need to change pid settings for that big block right?

    I wasn't sure if I needed to, but I guess I need to calibrate the sensor, correct?

    Can you tell me how to do that. I'm sorry but I'm getting a lot of information online to weed through, and if you can answer me directly, that would be SUPER helpful.

    -Thanks

  3. Hello,

    I opened a topic on this earlier, but I'm now facing a new issue. I have a e3D volcano hot end setup as a direct drive on my Ultimaker 2 (See image below)

    I've been having temperature sensor issues, but I can't use the temperature sensor's Ultimaker makes because they break at the heat I'm heating up to (+290 C).

    So I had to buy a PT100 sensor from e3D that is supposed to work with the Ultimaker; however, whenever I start heating the nozzle up, the temperature sensor doesn't read any change, and eventually I get the error - temp sensor message.

    Does any one have any ideas what is wrong, and how I can fix it?

    PS - I've measured the sensor resistance. It's 110 ohm.

  4. Measure the resistance of the sensor when it is not connected to your printer.  It should be about 108 ohms at room temperature.  If it is below 100 ohms or about 120 ohms then it's not the right kind of sensor.  If it *does* measure 108 ohms then you probably did not insert it properly into the board or it isn't making good contact.

     

    Thank you for the response.

    I measured the resistance of the temperature sensor. It's about 1 ohm, using the same method I measured the resistance of the heat bed sensor and it was 108 ohms.

    I have no idea why the resistance is so low, perhaps the sensor was shorted? All I know is I ordered the sensor specifically for the UM2 machine (a PT100 B sensor), and it looks exactly the same as the old one, just a bit longer.

    Should I assume the sensor is broken, or that I bought the wrong one somehow... and if so, do you know what sensor I should buy, and where?

  5. I have retrofitted our UM2 extended with a direct drive e3D titan motor + e3D volcano hotend.

    At first, I ran into little to no problems. As long as I kept the temperature below 295 the temperature sensor of the UM2 didnt throw the ERROR - TEMPERATURE STOPPED error; however, overtime the temperature sensor needed to be replaced, so I bought a PT100 B sensor for the UM2.

    But when I put the new temperature sensor in the printer, the ERROR - TEMPERATURE STOPPED appeared the second it was turned on. I checked all the wiring, and everything is wired up the way it was when it worked.

    I switched the heating bed and hot end sensor to see if the new temp sensor was the issue, and it turned on without an error. So something might be wrong with the main board, but at the same time the UM2 did actually turn on and start heating when I switched the hotend and bed sensors, so I have no idea what is creating the problem.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

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