GummyBearBandit

@Meduza Oh, wow! That Ruby nozzle looks very impressive, almost badass even! Yeah, steel can't compare to that.

Oh, yeah, I definitely have to re-level the bed after every 20m printed or so. My parts are still finishing up well enough, though. Are you also going to test hardened steel, different manufacturer's sizes, and printing methods? I'm going to add a few more general recommendations to my original reply. Edit: I guess for the glue vs. tape debate...use tape, and if the first layer of material goes down well enough, then you probably have nothing to worry about - as long as you're careful about doing touch-up while printing is in progress. Or use a liberal amount of glue without tape if you're still having trouble sticking the first layer and don't mind possible glass damage.

I've printed a few hundred meters of the CF-20. My E3D stainless steel 0.4mm and 0.8mm are still working well enough. I use blue tape, because I print slow and hot enough that the material will pull the glass up off of the print bed.

General recommendations: print slow and hot, no fans, enable retraction, set retraction distance to 0.0mm and z-hop to around 0.25mm. Use tape on your print surface! Edit: re-level the bed after every 20m printed or so if you're doing 0.1mm or 0.2mm layers, print in the smallest amount of layers possible, and print with the smallest surface area as the first layer if there won't be significant overhang problems. If a part you're printing is going to take up more than 20m material in one go and you can't figure out a good enough way to break it up into smaller parts, then consider going with an alternate route such as CNC and/or injection molding. Edit #2, regarding cool-head lift: only use it as a testing measure to see if it'll need to be activated. If it does need to be activated, then use a tower with enough surface area so cool-head lift isn't required. Otherwise, your print will likely fail. The minimal reliable extrusion for my purposes is around 1.2mm^3/s with about 20 seconds between layers.

For more reliable/consistent prints, I'd recommend leaving retraction enabled, but setting retraction distance to 0.0mm and making sure your movement settings are as fast as they can be. As well as lubricating your rods. I think a z-hop of 1mm when retracting will be fine. I print without fans, and I had better results going shorter - around 0.25mm.