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About BrayChristopher

  • Birthday 05/17/1978

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
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  1. BrayChristopher

    Ultimaker 2 Stepper Temperature

  2. BrayChristopher

    Dramatic Layer Shifts

    [print=4719][/print] I made an enclosure for the UM2 controller board that should allow for more air flow.
  3. Version 1.0


    I wanted an enclosure for the UM2 that allowed the electronics to breathe more. I had a hard time getting this to work. At first I tried to put all of the holes in the bottom face in the part model. But all those little perimeters made it difficult to print. So I made the bottom side of the enclosure solid in the model. In the slicer software (S3D), I set the number of top and bottom layers both to zero. And I set the number of shells to 10. It didn't print perfect, but it printed better than any of my previous attempts.
  4. BrayChristopher

    Sanjiu Feeder?

    Here is a printable design similar to the Sanjiu feeder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2289203
  5. BrayChristopher

    Sanjiu Feeder?

    Here is a link to the poor-man's Bond-Tec: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1426230 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neotko-fatiroberti-bondtech-feeder-for-um2-um3 https://0x7d.com/2014/improved-ultimaker-2-material-extruder/ https://printrbot.com/shop/gear-head-extruder-v2/
  6. BrayChristopher

    Sanjiu Feeder?

    I just found this. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1596292 This might solve your problems. Might.
  7. BrayChristopher

    Sanjiu Feeder?

    That feeder design does look intriguing... I am still running the stock UM2 feeder (not the 2+ feeder) and I am pretty happy with it. GR5 has a different feeder here: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/meduza-feeder-upgrade-kit.html Also, I keep my spool on a free-spinning spool holder, so there is no resistance from that end. Also, I keep my spool below the printer so that the filament travels straight up into the feeder (no sharp turns). Good luck man.
  8. BrayChristopher


    Test #15: wsdukai sent me screen shots of his S3D settings. I tried to match them as close as possible. This is probably the second best result so far, behind the S3D g-code. https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1PQTE_3DOOy1PPGaZczAN5jfSrY2eFVYlTTeXGuAGlFg/edit?usp=sharing I think the big differences were the reduced flow rate (extrusion multiplier), and the "retract before outer wall" turned on. I might run some tests to isolate them.
  9. BrayChristopher


    Ok, in case anyone still cares... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1EXozPH_tWbQVdXTkJuYU16ek0?usp=sharing Test #6: Another X-One owner sent me his g-code file from S3D. PERFECT results. So now I know MY x-one can do it. Test #8: I slowed the retraction speed way down. Beautiful parts with a beautiful "angel hair" wall. Test #9: I turned the heat down to 180c. Not so good. Test #10: I upgraded to Cura 2.6.1 and ran basically the stock PLA settings. One of the towers fell over and there was minimal blobs. Test #11: I turned on Coasting. All the towers stayed up, but I think the blobbing got a little worst. Test #12: I turned on Z-Hop. Perfect "angel hair" wall again. Blah. I think I will go back to the #10 setting and fiddle with some stuff, but leave Coasting and Z-Hop off.
  10. BrayChristopher


    I ran another test based on the setting recommended by this article: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19504-how-to-fix-stringing https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1XglSCqLKsF0TLDiXUOytxGmjidmCoWY2NYEl_xLzag4/edit?usp=sharing It did not solve the problem. I killed it mid print because one of the towers fell over and nothing good was happening anyway. Blah.
  11. BrayChristopher


    I am using Cura to slice files for the Qidi Tech X-One printer. I can't seem to get the stringing under control. I have tried a lot of different combinations of settings. See the link below. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1EXozPH_tWbQVdXTkJuYU16ek0?usp=sharing Test #6 was sliced with Simplify 3D and it looks perfect. Someone from Thingiverse sent me the G-Code. He said it was the stock S3D settings, nothing special. He is going to send me screen shots of the settings eventually. I believe Cura can do it. I think I just don't have the right settings. I want to use Cura because.... well it is free. And it has some infill settings that S3D doesn't have. And it has the Alternate Extra Wall setting that I think is really nice. Thanks in advance.
  12. BrayChristopher

    Recommend me acessories for UM2+ ext

    Start with Ultimaker brand filament. Once you have everyday success with that, then branch out to other filaments. You want to reduce the number of variables. Get a small desk fan. I point this at the bed after prints are done to cool them down faster. Then they pop of them glass. Be patient. If you are wrestling prints off the bed all the time, then you will be spending a lot of time re-leveling the build plate. Be patient. I print on glass with some glue stick. That's it. We have our printer set up on a rolling cart. On of the heavy duty plastic ones. You might want to use a wire rack shelf/cart instead. This will let the under side of the printer breathe easier. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/26114-dramatic-layer-shifts?page=2&sort=#reply-164290 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-extended-enclosure Get some extra PTFE couplers.
  13. BrayChristopher

    Adhesion Problems

    Did you apply the magnetic base to a glass plate? Or did you apply it directly to the heated bed?
  14. Does anyone have experience with either of these magnetic mounting build plates? https://www.geckotek3d.com/ultimaker https://www.buildtak.com/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
  15. BrayChristopher

    Heated Bed Problem

    We have an UM2E and it is giving us a Bed Temp Error. I think that is the problem. Is there any chance it is just the wire and the heated bed is still fine? The replacement wire is only $20, but the wire and bed together are $200. Also, fbrc8 is out of stock of the cables. Is there anyplace else to get these in the States?

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