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BrayChristopher

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About BrayChristopher

  • Birthday 05/17/1978

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  • Country
    US
  1. In case anyone was wondering, it seems that canola oil has solved my problems... for now.
  2. Does anybody print PETG with the Ollson block? What settings do you use. Help please.
  3. Do some atomic pulls or cold pulls whatever it is called. If that doesn't work try a new 0.4mm nozzle (if you have one laying around). https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19510-how-to-apply-atomic-method What kind of PLA are you using. 210C sounds right from most PLA, but I know MakerGeeks PLA prints at much higher temps. And I have heard of some PLA that prints at 190C. I use this spiral thing to help with bed leveling. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2996315
  4. I think you need to tighten the front screws to lower the front of the bed. Are the front screws bottomed out?
  5. Can you post the file? Or at least a picture of the part?
  6. I am using the Micro Swiss Wear Resistant Nozzle, which is a brass nozzle with nickel composite coating. I did re-level the bed. I did not tighten the nozzle while it was hot. Bed adhesion doesn't seem to be the problem. And I am not getting any leakage between the nozzle and the Olsson block.
  7. We have an UM2. I finally upgraded the hot block to an Olsson hot block and Micro Swiss Wear Resistant Nozzle. Of course, now the UM2 and I look like we both forgot how to print things. I had to raise the temp to print PLA. Is this normal? PETG is making me lose my mind. I used to get good prints like this. Now it looks like this It is hard to see, but the hairs and bumpy surface happen where the "base" of the part stops and the "walls" start. It is easier to see this on this larger part. Here is a section view. I am using Simplify 3D and always have. Same materials. I didn't change any of the settings during this print. This artifact does not align with the layer that the fans start (50%). Any ideas??? Please and thanks. Also, I was getting temp errors so I wrapped up the hot block in ceramic wool. Is that normal? Is there a magic nozzle that doesn't stick to PETG? Gross.
  8. It also might be time to swap out the Teflon collar above the nozzle.
  9. My issue was not loose set screws on pulleys. For some reason, my linear rods get "sticky" over time. I have NO IDEA why. The printer sits 10 feet away from me in our office. And I have an acrylic enclosure for it. So every once in a while I wipe the smooth rods down with acetone and then apply a little sewing machine oil. I don't know if this is part of the problem or not, but I have also taken some steps to keep the motors and electronics cooler. I keep the printer up on feet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:966936 I made a "mesh" enclosure for the electronics to let them breathe easier. And I added a cooling fan. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2512743 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8J233K6989&cm_re=ac_infinity-_-9SIA8J233K6989-_-Product I took the stepper motor covers off and left them off.
  10. [print=4719][/print] I made an enclosure for the UM2 controller board that should allow for more air flow.
  11. Version 1.0

    408 downloads

    I wanted an enclosure for the UM2 that allowed the electronics to breathe more. I had a hard time getting this to work. At first I tried to put all of the holes in the bottom face in the part model. But all those little perimeters made it difficult to print. So I made the bottom side of the enclosure solid in the model. In the slicer software (S3D), I set the number of top and bottom layers both to zero. And I set the number of shells to 10. It didn't print perfect, but it printed better than any of my previous attempts.
  12. Here is a printable design similar to the Sanjiu feeder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2289203
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