davidgeller
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Posts posted by davidgeller
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Sorry, but it wasn't obvious to me where to find all the firmware releases for the UM3? What's the typical update frequency?
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I've noticed that on a new UM3 with the latest firmware, if I cancel a print job (either through Cura 2.7 or on the UM3's command dial) then the next job will not have active leveling initiated at its beginning. Is this a known issue?
I'm new to the forum and apologize if this is already an actively tracked topic/bug.
-David
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Cura tells you how much filament every print will use. Exactly how much. If you print from the usb stick I believe the printer also tells you this. It's a good habit to take a peek at the filament spool before you start and if you aren't sure, unwind it and measure to make sure you have enough. I only have to do this on 1% of my prints when I'm near the end of the spool.
You *can* pause a print and change the filament part way through but you have remember to do this.
So the print head will remain where it is, or retract and then return to its last good position? Is there documentation online that explains this in more detail?
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I really feel for him, as the marketing tells us the UM3 is for professionals, is easy to use and so on. But, if you have never had a 3D printer before, I can see the many issues he ran into are of being a new user.
A few thoughts...
Upgrade your Cura and Firmware.
Use less PVA! Cura has a features where the support material boundary will help. Rather than using so, so much PVA, you could use the PLA support and then a thin layer of PVA between model and support. That should dramatically reduce some print times and use a lot less [expensive] PVA. (Which leads me to again, wishing Ultimaker would make high quality Cura tutorial videos demonstrating these features. The 3D techies know where to find these things, if you haunt here daily...but "professional" users would sure benefit from tutorials on advanced topics)
As for the prints not sticking, perhaps @gr5 can link in his wonderful video on improving adhesion. Just coating the bed with diluted wood glue would help you out. Glue stick doesn't always apply evenly and on the stick I have, sometimes small pieces come off.
It sounds like you are a good doctor trying to learning how to use 3D printing in your practice. Like any technology, it'll take some learning. (I worked for Information Systems at a medical center for 7 years. I know how doctors embrace new tech, but need some assistance taking advantage of it.)
Hope our comments are useful.
Don't give up. The UM3 is a wonderful printer (I miss having the loaners I had!)
Thanks for your feedback. Just an FYI - I'm not a doctor. The video I found was a physician using the UM3 to print some anatomic models.
I've been 3D printing for a year. Assembled a few Original Prusa i3s (and donated them to our local school system) then moved to the Original Prusa i3 MK2 (bought an aseembled one). I designed some parts for Tesla users to manage their charging cables and have been printing them with my Prusa. I print more than enough to pay for UM3s and, recently, had some issues with the Prusa - perhaps after running through about 75KG of filament. That has been my motivation to consider the UM3.
Plus - I really like the idea of stacking parts and using the water soluble material between pieces and then allowing the printer to do its thing for 24 hours or so. Hopefully that's something that's practical and would allow me to place several parts and print them unattended.
What remains concerning, though, is some stuff I see that makes that more challenging - like being able to detect low materials and pause print jobs. The Anycubic i3 clone does this beautifully.
Otherwise - I think, based upon the comments I'm reading here, I'll take the plunge.
While I'm more than capable of assembling low-cost FDM printers, I'm now looking for a work-horse and want to spend less time worrying about spaghetti jobs being created while I sleep.
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layer shifts are likely to be that you didn't tighten the pulleys enough. tighten the hell out of those prusa pulleys. Same goes with ultimakers.
As far as comparing um2 or um3 to the i3 I recommend you spend $20 and order something on 3dhubs and insist it's made by the um2 and nearby where you live and then go pick it up and talk to the owner and look at the quality of the part.
Good advice. Thank you.
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as far as accuracy;
I've handled multiple orders with 500+ identical components.. without any problem. that being said, seeing as Prusa is printing his components in house, that should not be a problem for the Prusa either..
so yes, you can expect the UM3 to have repeatable accuracy across the entire printing area... I can vouch for it
Thanks. That's very helpful.
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I disagree. He is not an expert and frankly does not know the boundaries of the machine. If I were new and were told to do a cold-pull, I would have struggled like him when trying to yank out the filament. He already stated that he was afraid to break the printer.
The firmware did behave in an unexpected way and that can't be the user's fault either.
Since the UM3 targets professional users, there is no excuse for shortcomings in the setup experience of the printer.
Any of use would have handled it way better, but that's because we have lots of experience with these printers. New users do not have that and frankly if I were a pro user and had so much trouble with one machine, I wouldn't have bothered with it again :/
The only thing one can blame him for is that he didn't ask for support earlier.
The situation has improved greatly since then. The firmware is stable much clearer than before. But still - if you loose one customer like this, I doubt they'll reconsider.
Glad to hear the firmware has improved. Does the printer now detect when filament has run out and allow you to add new filament and continue printing with the hot-end returning to its last position?
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I disagree. He is not an expert and frankly does not know the boundaries of the machine. If I were new and were told to do a cold-pull, I would have struggled like him when trying to yank out the filament. He already stated that he was afraid to break the printer.
The firmware did behave in an unexpected way and that can't be the user's fault either.
Since the UM3 targets professional users, there is no excuse for shortcomings in the setup experience of the printer.
Any of use would have handled it way better, but that's because we have lots of experience with these printers. New users do not have that and frankly if I were a pro user and had so much trouble with one machine, I wouldn't have bothered with it again :/
The only thing one can blame him for is that he didn't ask for support earlier.
The situation has improved greatly since then. The firmware is stable much clearer than before. But still - if you loose one customer like this, I doubt they'll reconsider.
Thank you.
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I was really getting excited about the UM3 until I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt8axoVuE9o. Now I'm not sure it's a smart investment. Maybe these and many other issues, across lots of brands and products, is the nature of FDM printing.
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I have a Prusa-assembled i3 MK2 which has successfully printed hundreds of objects. However, when I've tried to be more efficient and layout the same model multiple times I've been largely unsuccessful.
Sometimes I've had stringing issues and sometimes dramatic layer shift issues. Recently I experimented with Simplify3D's multi-process option where I'd attempt to print 5-10 cm in one corner, move to the next (and down) and continue printing. I carefully positioned my models so that the head assembly would never touch. Still, the Prusa had a tough time - almost as if it lost precise positioning ability going down and restarting a new layer. Add to that the fact that a firmware upgrade forces a painful (and often challenging) recalibration step - I'm thinking of moving into a new class of FDM printer.
Can I expect the UM3 to have precise, repeatable accuracy across the entire printing area?
If I wanted to stack multiple pieces vertically and use the water soluble material (perhaps only a few layers) between pieces am I likely to be successful?
Thanks in advance for any feedback you can share.
-David
Ultimaker 3 vs LulzBot TAZ 6
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
I've never used the Taz, but I'm a relatively new UM3 owner and my experience with the printer has been superb. I also have a Prusa i3 MK2, which creates exceptional quality prints - but nothing compared to the UM3. Coming from the Prusa which has a bed movement model similar to the Taz (Y and Z) I'd definitely saying having the bed move in only one axis, like the UM3, is significantly better.
I use my UM3 to print parts for a shop on Etsy and this thing, with a 0.8mm nozzle, has been cranking out the prints! I have to order filament (eSun 2.85) every week!