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It might be your printer - it might be that there are too many line segments in the circles for your printer to process fast enough and it ends up printing too slow. 1) Did you create this model? Do you have the ability to access the original CAD model? If so, when you export to STL - pay strong attention to the options. Try to set the resolution low - if it's too high - for example if there are 1000 points in those circles that is too much. 20 to 60 points is more reasonable. 2) In cura you have the color scheme set to "material type" so it's all yellow. This is h

First measure the screw diameter. Measure the diameter of the screw including the threads. I think it's 3mm? Then you want a "3mm lock washer"

Oh and in the second photo - with those layers - some stick out more and some less - that's caused by Z issues - if the Z axiss moves slightly more or less than nominal then you get slight over or underextrusion which causes those horizontal lines somewhat randomly. That's fixed usually by cleaning the Z screw. Sometimes you have to replace the Z screw, Z nut, Z bearings, or Z rods. But usually it's a dirty screw - dirt gets in among the grease.

The easiest thing to fix is that chimney which I agree is a cooling issue and solved by printing a tower or a second benchy next to the first to allow layers to cool a little longer. Everything else can probably be improved by printing much slower - like 20mm/sec if you want extra high quality. Personally I don't think the S5 is the ideal printer for the absolute highest quality looking PLA. The S5 *is* however really good for more exotic materials like Nylon. It's really good for print farms where you want to chain many printers together. It's great in an environmen

If you really want top surfaces to look much better you can look into the "ironing" feature set in cura but the default settings might not be ideal - the guy who invented ironing (neotko on this forum) recommends you extrude slightly (like 10% maybe?) while ironing. More here (concentrate on posts by neotko):

I think your bed isn't perfectly flat. If it's off by 0.1mm (thickness of typical paper) and if the bottom layer is 0.3mm then 0.1mm error is 33% different (over or underextruded) and it takes maybe 5 layers to finally reach equilibrium. Use a metal straight edge of some sort to check to see if your bed is a little higher or lower in that corner. Use a piece of thin paper (or a metal gauge that goes down to 0.05mm) as well to slide under the straight edge in different spots. Like @Smithy said - if you make the bottom of your part thicker it should look much bet

during testing, just print 3 or so at a time until you figure this out, then you can print as many as you want. Your issue is major underextrusion. It *might* be related to stringing. You can try "print sequence" set to "one at a time" mode. That will help with stringing. It's possible if it strings a lot then when it's printing the actual part it doesn't have enough filament but I dont' see much strings so that's probably not it. TPU is tough to print as it's so flexible. I'd try printing at 1/3 speed just to see if that helps. In fact you c

You could have caught this issue in pronterface! I thought you said you had tried the same commands through pronterface. lol.

For others - support blocker is the next icon down.

The spring on the feeder? Oh - the spring on the rear of the build plate? I have one of the oldest UM3s and I also have that weak spring back there. That was on purpose. I think it helps with active leveling. The newer UM3s have a stronger spring but that weak spring was on purpose and I have been printing on my UM3 for... 4 years? I don't know - but a long time.

Once you have an STL file the next step, before printing, is to use a slicer. Cura will convert the STL file to a gcode file. The gcode file is what you want to print on the Ultimaker 3. Cura is free and here: https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

Look at the setting "minimum layer time". It defaults to 5 seconds so it's going to cap the speed at a pretty slow speed. This is to allow the layer below to fully cool before printing the next layer above. Violating this by too much will result in prints that look like they melted a bit.

@AnnaAnimus - in Cura just above all the settings type "temp" in the search box. standby temp is not visible unless you have at least 2 extruders enabled. The temp is set I think in your profile. So maybe just manually put a lower temp in there. 150C for PLA might work well. If the filament curls and hits the nozzle it indicates you could use a cleaning (cold pulls - look it up). Maybe using a hypodermic scraping the inside of the nozzle tip. But sometimes you get curling even when the amount of cleaning needed is pretty minor and at the same time very hard to get

That video is really good. I couldn't see anything wrong. First realize that Erin is an expert at this and knows more about it than me. But I have fixed a few issues with leveling. If it passes the level sensor check in the menu, then the cables are probably fine. I know Erin says you should do the 14mm gap in that link she posted but in the video the nozzle touches the glass longer than what I normally expect. I'd raise the bed a few mm. It's important that the springs in the bed are weaker than the springs in the 2 cores. Because the level sensor is c

Going back to 4.6 didn't help? I usually use version 4.0. There haven't been any crucial features I need yet. I have 4.7.1 also. Both seem to work fine. No bugs. I recommend only upgrading once per year or so or when some feature comes out that is very useful.