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gr5

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gr5 last won the day on January 9

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About gr5

  • Birthday 01/01/1963

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    US
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    Ultimaker Original
    Ultimaker 2
    Ultimaker 3

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  1. So there is a utility called conman on the linux box inside the S5. If you google how to use conman you can set that kind of thing up (username). But to do that you need to first ssh to the machine so, at least temporarily, you need to use an ethernet cable.
  2. gr5

    Top infill not overlapping skin

    How many top layers do you have? I usually like 6 layers. It looks like you might only have 2 top layers.
  3. gr5

    Slicing creating holes in print

    Please show a screenshot of the model in normal view and also slice view.
  4. It sounds like you want to merge all the parts that are touching into one part (e.g. nuts merged with bolts). I'm not sure but netfabb probably takes care of that. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php
  5. gr5

    Why these travel lines?

    @placho - read the post above yours.
  6. I think I've seen that before and I just ignored it and did another print and the message went away. Maybe. I forget.
  7. gr5

    Cura 32bit for linux

    So I use ubuntu and I use the "appimage" release which works great. But it's 64 bit. Cura has been 64 bit only since version 2.3.1 as you can see here: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list The source code is on github. It's easy to get the source from any past version if you know git: https://github.com/Ultimaker You need both of the first two projects there: cura and curaEngine. "cura" project is the gui only. curaEngine is a c++ program that can be run from the command line that does the actual slicing. I don't know how to build cura or curaEngine but @smartavionics and @ahoeben do it regularly. Maybe they know where there is a guide published somewhere.
  8. gr5

    Cura 32bit for linux

    I assume you wanted to post in the english language part. It turns out most of the forum is english - only the "foreign language" section has other languages. I moved your post to the Cura subforum.
  9. The larger the print in X and Y, the more likely a corner will lift up. The sharper the corner, the more likely it will lift. I explain why in this video. I recommend some PVA for larger prints for Nylon. Alternatively you can print on a hotter print bed - 100C works fine - which makes the Nylon more flexible which distributes the lifting forces better. Or you can do all the suggestiosn in the video. It's kind of a lot to watch but I explain why and how and there's lots of useful details:
  10. First of all realize that there is a minimum layer time feature. I think it defaults maybe to 5 seconds per layer so that may be restricting the speed. You can turn that feature off. This keeps the quality up because it looks all melty if you don't let the previous layer cool a little. Cura has gotten complicated. There are about 8 printing speeds. I would try a few things: 1) Try setting most of them to 0. In the old cura (15.X.X) if you set the speed to 0 it would just not set the speed at all. 2) Open the gcode file in a text editor. It's quite easy to look at. Look for "F" commands. Those set the speed in mm/minute (60X larger than mm/sec). Note that anytime it does a non printing move it has to change the speed. Note that anytime it does a retraction it has to change the speed (extruder speed is different from XY axis speed). So you may have to disable all retractions and set the non-printing moves to speed 0 or to the same speed as the printing speed? Not sure. Hopefully in vase mode there are none of these.
  11. Adhesive, no. Solder, yes. You don't need silver. Ordinary solder is fine up to 200C. Unfortunately the copper trace is ripped. I would personally fix this by scraping the black coating off the copper for the next 5mm or so of trace then solder the wire directly to the trace. If it feels pretty solid then at that point I would also add some strain relief: probably glue the wire down to the edge of the board. Use a glue that can handle up to 110C. Or I might drill two tiny holes close to the edge of the board and use a metal wire looping through the holes to clamp down on the power wire.
  12. Please show a screen shot of the object in "xray" view. You showed the other 2 modes "layer view" and "solid view". If you see any red in xray view then that's the issue - the model isn't manifold and cura is confused. Hopefully it's your model and not the bug that tinkerGnome refers to.
  13. gr5

    UMO+ heated bed

    Also if you are printing with no heat you should use the supplied blue painters tape and put that on the glass and print on the tape. It's important to clean the tape with rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol) to remove the slippery waxy surface so parts stick to the tape.
  14. gr5

    UMO+ heated bed

    Wasn't Christmas 3 months ago? If the temp sensor works but the heater is broken then it's simple - just set the temperature to 0 in cura. If the temp sensor broke you can attach a 100 ohm resistor at the connector where the temp sensor goes. And again, set the temperature to 0 in cura. Probably you should disconnect the heater cable while you are at it. But you have more choices. These things are usually very easy to fix. Usually it's a loose wire. Usually it's at the bed and just needs the solder reflowed at the connector there. Do you have a friend who knows how to solder and use an ohm meter? This is a pretty simple thing to take apart and fix. There are photos and instructions on the forum or I can help if you have said friend.
  15. gr5

    Making a soap mold from a 3d model?

    Mostly you need some kind of cad software to break up a model into multiple portions. But one cheap trick you can do with cura is to go into preferences and uncheck "automatically drop models to the build plate". Then click your model to select it and go to "move" mode if you aren't already and set the Z position to a negative value. This will "sink" your part below the build plate and it won't print anything below the build plate. Then you can duplicate your part, flip it 180 degrees and repeat. If you click the "scale" tool instead of "move" you can see the total Z height of the part before you do this and make sure your negative Z values add up to the total Z height such that the parts are split at the exact same plane. But I've never done this because it's too much of a hack. Much better to split the part up in CAD as it gives you more options.
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