Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


gr5 last won the day on June 4

gr5 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,665 Excellent

Personal Information

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. By the way I recommend deleting those saved profiles for *all* versions of cura because when you first launch cura if the folder is missing I believe it looks at older versions of cura and tries to convert the older custom profiles and such.
  2. If you don't mind losing all saved profiles then try cleaning those all out. What you do is go to "help" and locate your configuration folder/folders and delete everything in there. I can never remember if you need to delete things in one folder or two so I'd just delete in both maybe? There will be separate folders for each version of cura you have installed (I'm not talking about the code in c:/program files/, I'm talking about folders that are created when you first launch cura). Anyway exit cura, delete all those folders, restart cura and it will recreate those folders from
  3. This problem is rare on the S5 but common on 3d printers in general and has about 30 (very different) possible causes. So the first thing is to figure out if the problem is at the feeder or the hot end. I'm guessing the hot end (the core). So try a different core. Your printer should have come with two AA 0.4 and one BB 0.4 cores so swap the AA 0.4 cores. Alternatively move the core to the right and slot so that you are using the right hand feeder and if it suddenly works great than the problem is with the left hand feeder. I'm guessing there is a clog or partial cl
  4. Did you read this thread/topic from the start - at page 1? There are several possibilities that cause the problem (I think 3 solutions are discussed above?) and I *think* everyone fixed their problem. But I'm not certain. My first thought was the same as ultiarjan (who I think was the first person to reply).
  5. Blue tape works great. Lower the heat even more or just turn it off. The most important thing though is to wash the painters tape with isopropyl alcohol. This removes the non-stick wax coating that keeps the tape from sticking to itself. And keeps parts from sticking very well to the tape. Just a few seconds with rubbing alcohol is all you need. Just a single tissue, with maybe a teaspoon of IPA will clean the whole S3 print bed.
  6. Yes. You got it. Combing is a feature to speed up printing. It can make a big difference. But it can also lower quality. Normally combing moves do not retract (although there is a "max combing distance with no retract" feature to fix that). zhop only happens on retractions. So A implies B implies C therefore A implies C (combing means no zhop). By the way, zhop is only recommended for delta printers and 99.9% of the printers out there are not delta printers so you might get ugly horizontal lines if you have zhop on. Or maybe not. Or maybe you will get them in a
  7. It's very common for tempered glass to be higher in the center. It has to do with how tempered glass is made. Because of the way things are leveled this usually means you get low spots in the rear two corners. 1) the amount of force needed to bend the glass flat is tiny. So you could probably put some sticky tape in the middle under the glass to pull it down - something that can handle 110C. Then put shims around the outer edge particularly in the rear two corners. Shims could be washers for example. Or sheets of paper. Or you could bend the rear two corners of th
  8. Maybe follow that with an M1 which should pause the print. If it prints the gcode and gets to the end, some firmwares will turn everything off after they finish "printing".
  9. What kind of printer is it? Some Marlin preheat features have a timeout. Some don't. By the way, the printer is a great controlled heat box. You can rise bread (i've done that), make yogurt, dry out filament, dry out dessicant, and many other things that need an accurate temperature. Cover the "experiment" with thick amounts of towels or blankets.
  10. I figured a cura expert would have looked at this by now. Unfortunately not. Well this line stands out a little bit: Unable to create a folder for scripts: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.9.1\resources\scripts Try running Cura as admin. Right click on the launching icon for cura and there should be a "run as administrator" option. It's just a warning (not an error) but could be an indication of the problem (cura can't write to it's own folder). Or maybe not an issue. Also try disabling firewalls and similar things (virus checkers) - at least to see i
  11. I get the same thing. I've printed at 500mm/sec just fine but never tried to retract that fast. You must have a very fast extruder? I'm not sure where this value is coded.
  12. Wait - make sure "remove all holes" is unchecked in mesh fixes. In fact make sure all the mesh fixes are default. When I do "remove all holes" I get something similar to what you describe. Also check the Z value position for your part. Did you lift if up off the table on purpose? I'm guessing yes. It's normally zero but you can lift it up a few mm when printing in your "bowl" orientation to get consistent support. Click on the part, select the MOVE tool on the far left of cura and look at the Z value. Normally it's always zero.
  13. There's nothing wrong with your STL file. It's water tight. Normals look good. And it slices just fine for me in either orientation. Please attach your project file - it will contain your STL, your machine (printer) settings, filament settings, and all your hundreds of cura settings. Do menu commands "file" "save project" and post that file.
  14. Or have the extrusion pause after a minute with a continue button to make sure the user hasn't left the room. Or cooling a bit and/or slowing extrusion to 1/10th speed (if you are worried about over cooking the filament).
  • Create New...