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gr5

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  1. Is it even printing your actual part at all? If so, are there gaps in the part itself on the same layers as the gaps in the support? If you answer "yes" to either question then probably a problem with your model. It's probably not manifold. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choo
  2. @lhodics - did you try what I posted? Did it preserve your machine settings such that now you have both old and new machines each with different settings?
  3. By the way you can also make the red stick *inwards* on the bottom layer. This will work better as you can bridge a gap and the black has support all the way around. Better but probably not great. It will probably also look kind of crappy. As a general rule for *one* color prints - text that sticks outwards is harder to do (and looks worse) than text that goes into the print (like holes in the print). "emboss" versus "embed"? I'm not sure of the right words. But in this case with the top of your print it looks quite good. Also text on a wall looks better than text
  4. So to have the red stick out and downwards, it will look like crap. The black will be up in the air printing over air and will fall down to the glass and be all like wheat chex instead of solid. You need a 3rd extruder to extrude PVA for support. I suppose there is a way to do that if you slice it two different ways, then splice the two gcodes together (with some g92 corrections and temp change corrections) and you change the filament from pva to black part way through. No - that's really really crazy. Much too complicated (tons of gcode editing by hand). In cura to
  5. One more thing - if you can get the red to print first on the bottom layer it will look better (e.g. thicker jaw). Or at least quite a bit different. Like bold text versus regular.
  6. 1) I'd tell the person that you can't do it. Did you show him these pictures and he still wants them both raised? 2) you can print two and glue them together. Registration will be difficult so if you are making many of these you might want to make a jig to hold them perfectly centered while the glue dries. Definitely clamp them while drying. "crazy glue" works pretty well.
  7. Two prongs is not a good sign. You get that on the 3dsolex race nozzles that have 2 paths but you should not get that on a .25mm nozzle. You can be pretty tough with the needle as long as you don't send the needle above the heat block. Do you have one that can fit in a .25mm nozzle?
  8. Yes. I'm pretty sure you can. You can definitely have 2 different models with extruder 1 for one model and extruder 2 for the other. You can also specify that the infill (or support also) can be done by a different extruder than the shell. I'm not sure how to do 4 extruders but I think it's possible.
  9. I've learned that even though the steel is paper thin - it is steel after all. It can take 0.5Nm of torque without breaking every time which is more than my bare fingers can generate without tools. So it's tougher than I originally thought. Before you take it apart. Did you do your own cold pull? Remove the bowden - heat core to 200C, stick PLA down in there until it comes out the tip (or doesn't). Put the head in the corner (any corner) so the rods through the head don't get permanently bent. Push pretty hard - like 5kg/10 pounds. At this point strongl
  10. PVB and PLA have similar printing temps and that's the most important thing. If it were me I would just select PLA and override (print anyway). Unless you have the material station, it usually doesn't matter if you use the wrong material profile as long as you get the temps right (hot end and bed). The material station does a kind of cold pull and that temperature is different from the printing temperature and is important to get just right. In fact I've been very unhappy at the fan settings in most profiles. Either my S5 is different than others or someone isn't doing any test
  11. It works for most people. What operating system are you using. Please post the log file which may show strong hints of why it crashed. On my windows10 computer it is here: C:\Users\gr5\AppData\Roaming\cura\4.8 On linux is here: /home/gr5/.local/share/cura/master from Ultimaker: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ub
  12. 240C is damn hot for PLA. It will change the material characteristics a little. Probably not a huge deal. The print will look a bit different - maybe more matt and maybe more stringing. What speed are you printing at?
  13. From top level go to: MATERIAL/PRINTCORE MATERIAL 1 MOVE It will automatically heat up. You can separately just heat up a core in the PrintCore 1 menu. I recommend learning what all the menu items do at some point. Just try them all maybe? At least the ones that don't sound like they will take several minutes to do.
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