Juliogdiana

Basically any thermistor will work, but I have used this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202619728612 and the first thermistor option on marlin firmware, I think is number 1.

Using a relay dont change nothing, you takes the same time, using a relay just saves you burn your heat bed transistor as I have done twice, specially if you want high temps and longer prints for abs

Hi, you need a relay, don’t plug your hotbed wires directly to the board, you need get the signal from the board to kick a relay, you wire your hotbed on relay. type on ebay 3D printer hotbed relay, got mine for £7

Got the printer fully working now with ultipanel controller, hot end temperature works perfect with amplifier e3d pt100 board, resistor R23 cut and firmware with sensor 20, same as um2. I would like to have the full graphics if I can sort the firmware.

Thank you, I found the problem, it was my arduino board, changed it and works now. But looks like the Builtimaker is getting problem to generate firmware with full graphics lcd screen. I check it on Arduino and I am getting error while compiling but I cant understand what is wrong, this is the line: Just give error when define smart full graphics lcd, everything else goes fine.

I didn’t know could upload with sd card, how to do it?

Yes, now I messed everything, couldnt connect the printer to Cura for changing firmware, so I try upload original firmware, it did, but now I cant upload a custom firmware with my pt100, shows printer isnt connected, but when I open the arduino, it shows Mega 2560 board, I have selected the right port, which is showing on my windows system but it still wont connect. Windows seven with Arduino 1.5, is there any tricky for this? I have .hex file and marlin firmware, cant flash none of them.😵

I am getting 178ohm between them, it is because I have heated the extrude, it is going down on ohms slowly

two reds? is not supposed to be between red and white?

That’s what I have

yes I have multimeter/ohmemter

Ok guys, I did what Torgeir mentioned, cut out the R23 and put the e3d board, now my temperature goes down when I heat up, I have inverted the pt100 wires but still the same, pt100 have 3 wires, 2 red and one clear, I have both red`s together and clear separate, any guess now?

Yes gr5, mentioned it on my second post Also I have installed the e3d board that supposed read the pt100 from head and send reading to the board, but I am having 68ºC at room temperature and it doesnt change.

Thats the problem gr5, I want to print ABS, I will try again. Torgeir, I have selected on builmaker the pt100 sensor same as ultimaker v2.x board, is that the wrong one? On bed I have removed the smd thermistor and installed a standard hotend thermistor 100k same as on J-head, it is working perfect. The problem I have is only with PT100 from Hotend, I dont know which type of sensor I need to select when building the firmware, as I have the e3d pt100 amplifier board, should i select pt100 with 4.7k pull up?

Thanks for the information guys, I have tried every combination with the pt100 and nothing. I have it working with thermistor, I will use instead pt100, I know is not accurate but at least I get it working