Advanced
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Posts posted by Advanced
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3 minutes ago, Labern said:
The infill will protect the top from collapse.
Support goes on the outside to help print things that stick out. There is only the ring on the side of this part that is effected but because of the shape and it doesn't stick out far I think it should be fine without support.
thank you - in regards to infill he gave the setup 30-50%, which one would be saver for no support print? 50? or more?
Same question for profile (layer height) - 0.1mm (21h) or 0.15mm (7h)? -
Do you think the top can be printed without support? Or will this collapse at the end of the Print?
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Motor_cover2_edit.STLHi guys,
i want to print this big 3d-cover... however if i use support, it needs way more time and material, and often with support, it doesnt look that pretty...
Do you think it can be printed without support? How would you print it, as it is or rotated 180° "on head" ?
Its a part of this project "https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4314214" - since this part is visible i want to have it as beautiful as possible - and i have to print it over night, so I dont want to have a big mess in the printer on the next morning.
best regards,
Fabian -
Moin Smithy,
The glas plate was cleaned with alcohol, but the "dirt" is the UHU glue 😉
However I will re-clean the glass and then i will use ur wet tissue method.
Thank you -
Process:
I used this file to have a dummy -
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2400553
The first print looked like this:
As we can see, there are first layer problems again.. I was thinking about the calibration distance.
I did the calibration again, but now with distance which is that low that the paper calibration card was almost stuck between needle and plate.. I would not say that this is a slightly resistance, more a aggresive resistance 😉
However the next trial comes out likes this:
Way better I would say. Its printed without any "Build Plate Adhesion".
Tomorrow I will give it a next trial with my file, wish me luck.@yellowshark thanks for your idea, I think its a better way if i find a good calibration first, before i set the Z to negative values. However if my attempt tomorrow will not work, i give it a try!
Thanks,
Fabian -
Nice on Smithy, lets try your things.
(1) - the full model is colored in red on the downside.
(2) - Sharp eye, it is made for a cappuchino- foam powder logo 🙂 I will have a look on other materials.
(3) - i will print a tool and then i come back 🙂 -
Hi Smithy,
I used the plastic card and second the paper calibration card at the 5 calibration points, and set the distance so that the paper between bed and nozzle have some resistance if i move it. Should be fine i guess?
However as you see in the picture, the bottom of the model is not accurate, but the top is perfect.
Could that be the file as well? I wonder why the printer is able to print a perfect adhesion plate, but the model then becomes that bad?
Do you have a test-print file which i could try to figure that out?
Best,
Fabian
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Hello together,
I am using an Ultimate 2+ and we are printing just simple prints.
However I am struggling with following problem:
The first layer of the print is always bad.. On the glass as well as on a printed Build plate Adhesion (Raft).
The layers after the first layer look good, as well as the rest of the model.
Do you know what I have to change? I am using simple white PLA with standard setting.
I also calibrated the printer again, with both calibration cards.
Is it maybe the file? we designed it with rhino 3D.
I look forward to your answer. Thanks alot in advance!
Fabian
How to print that as best, accurate and save as possible?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
good morning,
it came out amazing - its 0.15layer height, 30% infill, no support.
just pretty small failures under the ring, but in general im more then happy. Used ABS for that.
Thanks for the support.