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yellowshark

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yellowshark last won the day on February 7 2018

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About yellowshark

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    heated bed and enclosed housing which were not offered by Ultimaker.
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  1. and I am wondering if you might be stronger with a bigger nozzle; every time you print two adjacent lines you have a join and I wonder if that introduces a weakness. What would be stronger, 10 lines from the 0.25 nozzle or one line from a 2.5 nozzle?
  2. yellowshark

    irregular perimeter corners

    ...Maybe it was nGen I used it with.
  3. yellowshark

    irregular perimeter corners

    Hi @giostark funnily enough I was going to suggest trying Coasting in my last email. I tried it when it first became available, 2 years ago?, and recall I met with some success. But I am not using at the moment and cannot recall what caused me to remove it - but worth a try!
  4. yellowshark

    Wall thicker on curved sections

    With reference to the hole rather than the wall thickness... 3D printers do not print circles, they print straight lines. Lol end of really. The line cuts across the arc so the radius is smaller. No way around that really apart from compensating in your design if dimensional accuracy is important and you have a tight tolerance.
  5. yellowshark

    irregular perimeter corners

    Ok a few comments on your settings; I am not sure that the material would make any difference with these If I were using PLA with 0.5 layer height I would use two top layers to see if that gave me a better top finish. To me a thickness of 0.5 for the top layers seems marginal; but of course I have never used 0.5 layer height so it may be OK. It may be that with this thicker layer height and 60% infill you are OK. I would not print outer wall first. Perceived wisdom is that you are likely to get a better surface by printing outer wall last. I have never used optimise wall printing order and have no idea what it attempts to do. But you only have two walls, with the order specified in the above sentence, so I would be inclined to untick that. Skin overlap % hmn never used that although I see I am doing so unwittingly. The setting is calculated and mine shows 5%. 40% looks awfully high, although with a wall width of 0.8mm you might well be OK; a setting which potentially impacts the outer wall so you might want to try reducing it considerably just to see. Skin expand distance; again no idea what that does, but guessing, why do you want your outside wall (if that is what skin is) to be 4.8mm wide rather than 4mm wide. Again it is one of those settings that looks like it may affect the surface and I would untick for now. Retract at layer change; again another I have never used in 5 years. Might be worth turning off to see. Retract distance 1.5; wow I assume ABS does not leak as much as PLA!
  6. yellowshark

    irregular perimeter corners

    Ah, ABS, all bets are off! I have never used it so you need someone who does to best advise. I would have thought with ABS 210 was too cool; but you need someone who knows what they are talking about πŸ™‚
  7. yellowshark

    irregular perimeter corners

    Hi I am not 100% sure what is causing your problem but I would suggest you try the following settings – you do not list all your settings, so you may be using some of these already. Nozzle width 0.4 Line widths all 0.4 No. of walls 2 ALL print speeds 30mm/s, including Infill (except travel speed and 1st layer speeds (if you want to run that slower, I always use 20mm/s) Outer before inner walls not ticked Horizontal expansion 0 Infill before walls not ticked Infill overlap 15% Infill density 26 or larger Flow 100% Retraction distance of 5.5 will probably be OK, you can try both. I use 6.5 for nGen and 5.5 or 6.5 for PLA, depending on whether I remember to switch 6.5 back to 5.5 for PLA!! I have never used retract before outer wall – not sure why you would want to do that. I have never used a layer height greater than 0.300 so I have no idea if that could have any impact. Ok Z seam. I always use Random; I am not saying that you should. I do not know why you have selected Sharpest Corner – you are printing a cube, all corners are 90 degrees and so all corners are equal sharpness. You do not say what you extrusion temp is, which is rather important! Print as cool as you can to avoid any over-extrusion on corners as the print head decelerates and accelerates.
  8. yellowshark

    Print is unacurate in the first layer

    Actually another and fool proof way is to load the model into Cura. select the model and hit the move icon; the Z parameter should be 0 otherwise it is not sitting on the bed. Set it to 0 if not 0 . Also you could set it to -1mm (say) which means the model will below the build plate and try printing i.e. your first printing layer will be 1mm into the model rather than the actual 1st layer of the model.
  9. yellowshark

    Extrusion width compensation in Cura?

    If your printer is in good shape and setup properly then dimensional errors on rectangular geometry should be <0.100mm Circular geometry will have a larger error, say 0.300mm smaller because FDM machines do not print circles, they print straight lines and each line in circular geometry cuts the cusp of the arc. For circular geometry you need to design this failing into your model, it is a bit suck it and see. With a well grounded printer it should not be a problem. I can hit 50 micron error easily and can get down to 30 or better but we will only guarantee 50
  10. yellowshark

    How to fix printing blobs?

    I would have to say that if Inventor is being used then I would not worry about decimating. I use Solidworks and of course the two are the two leading software companies, arch enemies I guess, with a lot of similarities and attention to engineering and quality. We have not had one problem from Solidworks in the 5 years we have been using it and I would expect Autodesk to be the same.
  11. yellowshark

    bridge issue . 10x10 square test - top layer

    … oh a quick thought, using a 0.8mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm might help, it certainly does on curve overhangs; although possibly not on an absolute 90 degree angle, trying to get my head around that😡
  12. yellowshark

    bridge issue . 10x10 square test - top layer

    A few points ? print the top part separately and glue the two pieces together. I see you have 4 layers on the bottom; can you have 4 layers on the top, or 3? If you are using 0.3 layer height then your final layer should be fine. Of course you may need to do a bit of cleaning up inside the cube, depending on what is going in the cube. The first layer will never be great. Make sure your fans are running 100% to cool the bridge material as quickly as possible. Print as a cold as possible, this will enhance cooling and make sure you are not over extruding Reduce print speed, this will enhance cooling And make sure your printer is in tip top condition. I have bridged >10mm a lot in architectural prints, it is not difficult. Returning to your photo - white is probably the most difficult colour, you may get instant improvement if you change that. And it is easier with high quality filament I bet you are not printing as cool as you can 😎
  13. yellowshark

    Tolerance Test

    … oh by the way circular geometry will NOT be accurate, easily out by 3/400microns. You need to compensate within your 3D model dims to get circles right.
  14. yellowshark

    Tolerance Test

    With a new printer you should easily hit 100 microns and quite frankly 50 microns at worst. As @Smithy says standard settings will not do it for you. Smithy mentions some fancy expansion settings there which I have never used, are they available in 2.7 I wonder? Don't know what slicing tolerance is but I am sure Smithy will be correct. My maxim is slow and cool and a filament you know you can rely on. I have two PLA filaments that I turn to when dimensional accuracy is important. I go for 30mm/s and nothing more than 190; probably less if I were using 0.15 layer height. Cannot recall what I use for outer before inner walls as my notes are on another PC. I have a sneaky feeling that I did a comparative test and found no difference but Cura help does suggest outer before inner can help accuracy. All the notes above will help but you will need probably need to do some of your own testing to get there. I do not know what testing Ultimaker do on each machine before shipment for this area - you could send a question to Support. Ultimately if you cannot get to your target, which should be at least 100 microns then you might want to start playing with your e-steps settings in the firmware. Quite easy actually as long as you have some idea on what you are doing when playing with firmware and take it easy.
  15. yellowshark

    Sharpest Corner Z-Seam Setting (Problem and Suggestion)

    Hi Sean, I take you point but do not understand why that corner would be 85d rather than 90d. Are you saying that Cura does not slice 90d corners correctly? Or of course your modelling software.
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