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yellowshark

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yellowshark last won the day on February 7 2018

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About yellowshark

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    heated bed and enclosed housing which were not offered by Ultimaker.
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  1. … and anyone who has to suffer the utterly effing mess of Windows Update under Windows 10 will know that not fixing something that aint broke is the way to a stress free life !!!!!
  2. Yup to put that in real life rather than from the software laboratory. The user control has to be failsafe. We have Cura on two laptops, one being a play around/test laptop and the other being the print control laptop for production. We would certainly not want our production laptop automatically updated and bringing down a days production!!
  3. Thanks @SmithyI am familiar with their on-demand service BUT I was not aware that it went down as low as 1 reel!😀I have just checked the RAL colour chart and their Pure White is what I need methinks. I shall get my order in and await the sample 😃
  4. @geert_2 is right, on that geometry slow and cool is key. I wonder what your settings are?; personally I would go no faster than 30mm/s and 190-195 degrees depending on layer height. Now another thing that could help you... These two versions were printed with the same filament and settings except the first one used a 0.4 nozzle and the second one a 0.8 nozzle. I guess I may have pushed the extruder temp up 5 degrees for the extra flow of filament from the 8mm nozzle. I cannot guarantee it would work, your curve is convex and mine concave but the principle is the same, more material in the the wall being printed laying down on the previous layer. Err lol I was shocked too!
  5. Hi @Smithy and @geert_2 most helpful, it is always good to get feedback from users. Lol I think I am in a bit of a rock and a hard place here. I use the Arctic white for modern and retro architecture. It s always difficult with colours on the web and colour calibration etc. but yes the Standard white does look a bit creamy. They also have a semi matt white but I cannot see any difference between the two, from the pics on the colorFabb site. Now the Blueish White is certainly different BUT could be an interesting replacement. I have a 3D shop about 40 mins drive away that stocks colorFabb so I think I need to take a trip there and try and see them in the flesh. It is good to hear that you find them pretty easy to use; yes I love Dutch orange, a reel of that and ironically Blue-grey arrived this morning. When I first started Dutch orange set the bar for me for quality of output; I have one, maybe two Faberdashery filaments that match it but I have never bettered it. I will let you know what I decide 🙂
  6. Hi I had a similar problem last week. I was printing circular geometry, reasonably unusual for me. I fixed it by changing two settings - no stupidly I do not know whether they both contributed or just one of them! I will revisit that but I was in a rush at the time. I changed z-alignment from random (which I always use) to user specified and changed print acceleration from 3000 (default) to 1500.
  7. Hmn, I have a specially manufactured PLA which has an anti-microbial additive mixed in, about 3% if I remember rightly, for use in the medical field, to prevent the transfer of microbes from one user to another. Of course they may not be but I suspect they will be similar. Anyway it did not impact my temperature to any great degree. I vaguely recall I may have changed the temp by 5 degrees but cannot remember whether that was + or - and I do not have the production notes on this laptop. At 30mm/s and 0.2 layer for normal PLA you should not really need more than 195, depending on how well your printer is setup. Adding another 35 degrees just seems too much to me but then smart arses have been known to be wrong! I suggest you print some 10mm cubes at various temps and see how it goes - lol I will be interested to hear what your results are
  8. Hi I need some white PLA. My goto filament for years has been Faberdashery Arctic white but they are out of stock of everything with a message saying they are moving premises see you later in 2019. Hell if I were moving my business I would not shut down production until the new premises were ready for me and then hopefully be down for 1 week absolute maximum. And I would tell my customers how long we planned to be down for. All sounds very dodgy and they have three goto filaments for me including the white and I am out of stock on two of them and not much left of the third. So what about ColorFabb my other goto manufacturer. Arctic white is snow white, not a hint of cream anywhere or anything else. For a white it is very easy and consistent to use. Does ColorFabb have a white that meets those two requirements?
  9. Hi, from what you are saying, as I interpret it, your bed is not level i.e. there is a bigger bed to nozzle distance on the left so the filament is not getting sqished into the bed. Best solution is to get it level! Also I assume your bed is nice and clean all over. Yes increasing the flow rate will affect the whole print unless you using print control software , e.g. RepetierHost, that allows you to modify flow in real time. I do that all the time using 70% flow for the first layer then transitioning to 100%. I have no idea if the latest version of Cura has this capability.
  10. Hi @Tettaura thanks for the info. OK several things going on here. You need 2 walls (yes “number of walls”), that is almost certainly your infill showing through the single wall. As you do not mention it then I assume you are using PLA and, if that is the case, then you are printing way too hot and you are over-extruding. Stupidly I did not ask for your layer height; even if you are using .3 layer height you should find that an extruder temp of 200 will be fine and gives you a big improvement. If your layer height is .2/.1 then 195/190 should be better. Of course if you are using ABS then your temp. is probably in the ball park but not for PLA. All printers and filaments are different so one cannot be totally prescriptive on extruder temp. but you should not need to move more than +/- 5 degrees on the above. Yes the preview will not show defect arising from the settings; only mesh defects in X-ray mode.
  11. Hi @andrulonis ok as you do not mention it then I assume you are using PLA and if that is the case then you are printing way too hot and you are over-extruding. Drop your temp. to 195 which should be OK. You can even try 190 for a better result, especially if you are using 0.1. If you are using 0.2 with 45mm/s you might need to push the extruder temp to 200; all printers and filament are different, so one cannot be too prescriptive, what works for you is best, but not 235 🙂 If you are using ABS then your temp is probably in the ball park but I have. never used ABS so it would be wrong for me to guess what is going on.
  12. Wow @lakerice, 2 days + you are brave😃. Yes your latest print looks much better and your legs look better than mine, I must get to the bottom of these zits although that will have to wait as I have a job agreed today that I need to deliver on Tuesday. My print that you are looking at was done with the model scaled down 50%. It is a bit late in the day now but you know it is always worth scaling down a model or sinking it into the bed (-Z position) just to print a portion of the model, to make sure the settings are right before pursuing a large print of 1-2 days. I note your response to @geert_2 where you said you made the walls thicker - I wonder what you actually did? IMHO and how I always work is that line width = nozzle and wall width = line width and you define the number of walls you want. Whether that 2,3,4 or whatever is up to you. And I always run with infill overlap = 15%; no scientific reason, it may be the default that I use but it works for me. What I did change last year was to measure the width of the filament being extruded which was 0.45 not 0.40 so I changed the line width to 0.45 which of course I will recheck when a new nozzle is deployed.
  13. Hi can you please tell us your settings for Layer height Extruder temp Print speed(s) Flow %
  14. OK can you tell me please your settings for Line width Number of walls Infill overlap % Dimensional thickness of the part i.e. the external casing Extruder temp. Print speed(s) Also useful would be a pic of the model in Cura layer view, at a layer in the bottom half where the vertical lines are showing
  15. Oh and important, or maybe not, I reduced the scale of you model by 50% so I could print in just a couple of hours.
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