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yellowshark last won the day on February 7 2018

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  1. Thanks for that @SandervG, looks very interesting. LOl surprised your "Industries" did not offer Additive manufacturer, give who we are; I settled for Other.
  2. I should clarify that the dimensional testing was on the accuracy of length of line, not the width. I just happened to have printed a single line and though I would measure it. I was not aware there was a e-step setting available that affected the dimension of the width!!
  3. Lol, OK I have several takes on this and I do not claim to be an expert on this as I have never needed to play around with it, ie line width 1. I take it to be and do all our design on the basis that the line width is governed by the physical extruder aperture. I measure that by printing a single line. Well of course I did not use to do that - the specifications for the printer said it had 0.4mm nozzle which we took as gospel. 2. I think Cura uses the line width to calculate the amount of filament to be pushed through to achieve the line width, with the caveat that one
  4. Hi @jdrake I am not answering your questions specifically but thought I would give you my experience. Which is germane. For years my setup was 0.4mm nozzle and 0.4mm line-width which gave me good results. Then a couple of years back I was doing some testing on dimensional accuracy and calibrating my e-steps and measured the width of the printed test lines and saw that they were 0.45mm. Now whether that was due to expansion or my extruder having a 0.45mm hole due to manufacturing tolerance or wear over a period of years I know not. But I set my nozzle width and line width setti
  5. I must say that when I first looked at this thread my view was really an unclean bed but I thought I would mention the possibility of over-extrusion too. It was several years ago that I changed my setup and put my nozzle closer to the glass, following some great posts by @gr5. Around the same time, within 6 months, I had made another change whereby I changed to use the same extruder temp for layer 1 as I did for the rest of the print, i.e. not having a lower temp to match the speed of 20mm/s for layer 1. I found I was getting results similar to the first pic in this thread; it took m
  6. It could be over extrusion; what extruder temp, bed temp and print speed are you using for layer 1 and like wise for layer 2 onwards? Are you using 100% flow? I have the settings set the same for all layers except for layer1 I have the print speed set to 20mm/s and to avoid over extrusion I set the flow % to 70% and then increase it back to 100% over the next couple of layers - I do this with the printer control software not in Cura, although maybe these days Cura lets you control it?
  7. Appreciate you are not changing your nozzle 😉Yes PLA does have a wide temp range, which is problematic because it makes you think your temp is OK when it is not. Well it may be OK but so is your print, instead of being great. This is especially important when it comes to dimensional accuracy and delicate features. I do not know what it is but there has to be a point where difference in physical nozzle and line width will cause problems such as you say. I only ever print with line widths that match the width of extruded filament, which in my case is 0.45mm. The difference in print quality
  8. Well there are a host of things you can play with to try to improve aspects but I think the two biggest rules are print slow and cool. Also the particular filament you will use can have an impact. Different coloured filaments from the same supplier can produce differences. Also easier if you design your models yourself. E.G. easier to print accurate 0.4 walls if they are 0.4 and not 5.3. I would recommend speed not above 30mm/s. For temp. use the filament you will use and print a series of 10mm cubes to find your temp. Print each cube at 5 degrees cooler than the previous one until
  9. In addition you will be pushing more filament per sec out of the nozzle so possibly may need to increase extruder temp a bit (if all other settings remain the same). I.e. if you physically swapped your 0.4 nozzle to 0.8 you would definitely need to increase the temp. But I guess 0.4 to 0.5 you might get away with but it is a 25% increase in volume. Probably depends on whether your current settings are veering towards too hot or too cold.
  10. Printing the outer wall first is recommend for greater dimensional accuracy. Why has disappeared from my memory banks but that being the case it would be a reasonable factor for making your teeth work
  11. It would be interesting to see what the result would be if you reduced the number of walls to 2 and increased the infill to say 40%. I am not saying you are wrong but I have always used 2 walls and tailored the strength of the part by the density of the infill. I quite often print at 100% infill and have found on certain sizes/geometries that 100% infill is faster than using a lower density - important to us as print time is by far the major influencer on pricing whereas material has a small influence. .Also you do not say what print speeds you are using for infill and for w
  12. If you are printing layers over low density infill it just means you need more top layers to get a decent surface, say 1.0mm thickness plus.
  13. Maybe it is back to basics, If you are printing top layers over infill why do you want to use bridging when it is not bridging. I do not have the latest Cura and do not know what bridge mode is, lol so probably should not be commenting!
  14. Very impressive @Safety_Lucas. What size fount did you use?
  15. Yes spot on. Depending on thickness dims I might use more walls if it proves faster to print that using infill. FWIW I also always use 15% infill overlap.
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