ahp
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Posts posted by ahp
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On 3/14/2019 at 4:00 AM, Reverse_Engineer said:
...and along the slot on the stepper bracket...
What part do you mean by this ?
On 3/14/2019 at 6:20 PM, geert_2 said:Yes, this is also a good idea, provided that the material can be glued well (PLA, ABS). Not for nylon or PP, or PE.
What glue would be best to use to glue the two parts together? (this will be printed with PLA).
On 3/6/2019 at 12:59 PM, geert_2 said:But in my model, the connection strands are not plates, but just sort of tiny "hairs": they are 0.5mm wide (=a bit more than nozzle-width), 0.2mm high (=2 layers of 0.1mm), and 1mm long (=the distance of the gap).
Are the dimensions drawn in the attached picture correct?
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yeah, he is following evening courses on how to make wine...hopefully it works but there is a chance that it won't be drinkable..the future will tell :-)
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Yeah that's probably the route we will go..He still has to plant the first plants though..so will still be a while before there will be any wine..:p
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I suspected something along the lines..but wanted to ask just in case..Thanks for the info!
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A friend of mine is planning to make a homemade wine and needs a bottle(s) to hold it. He is interested in a custom shape for the bottle and asked me if I could come up with something. My question is, is there some type of material (or maybe process) that I can use to safely store the wine?
Thanks in advance
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On 3/11/2019 at 2:32 PM, geert_2 said:
Do you mean the ribs on top of the supports? I usually design them on a 0.5mm grid, so they are usually 0.5mm wide (a bit wider than my 0.4mm nozzle), and 1.0mm separated from each other. But this is not critical, and occasionally they may differ in my designs.
The vertical gap between the support-ribs and the bottom of the real model usually is 0.2mm to 0.3mm. The idea is to get the supports as close as possible to the real model for best accuracy, but without fusing them. So, dimensions may depend on the material you use, printing temp and speed, amound of fan (more fan = more cooling = less fusing). I would suggest that you make several small test pieces with slightly different dimensions, and then select the one that works best for your situation. It may require some trial and error...
Hey geert, thanks for the extensive info..i'll give those variables a try as soon as i find some time..Cheers
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I am in the proces of constructing the supports. I measured from the model you supplied that the supports are .7mm apart. I made a mistake which caused the distance between 2 rows of supports to be .8mm. Does this matter or is this still ok?
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yeah 🙂
Thanks for the specific measurements and clarification. I'll make testprints first.
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I tried constructing some support for the overhanging parts of my model. I'm thinking that I will remove the middle connecting arm of the outer supports (small supports under the "stoppers") before I print it (see purple arrows in the image). Any other suggestions or concerns you might notice?
Edit: Oh my...I scaled your model in netfabb in order to measure it without realising this also scales up the original distance and measurements of the support...the inner support is about 5x too big...argh
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On 3/1/2019 at 4:56 PM, geert_2 said:
I modeled this test table in CAD in DesignSpark Mechanical (freeware, requires registration).
Dimensions in this test model:
- for reference: most plates are 1mm thick, text caps height is 3.5mm, text legs are 0.5mm wide
- horizontal gap between supports and model: 1mm
- tiny connection strands to keep support attached: 0.5mm wide (for nozzle of 0.4mm) x 0.2mm high (=2 layers of 0.1mm). These can easily be cut off, and cleaned.
- inverse staircase in supports: steps of 1mm. This staircase reduces the overhangs curling up, but does not eliminate it. But in my tests these stairs worked better than a 45° overhang slope.
- ribs on top of support: 0.5mm wide x 0.5mm high x 1mm horizontally separated.
- vertical gap between ribs and underside of model: depends on model, usually 0.2 to 0.4mm. Try what works best for you.
- supports extend sideways, bigger than the model: 0.5mm to 1mm. Making the support a bit bigger than the model improves the edges of the first layer of the model. Otherwise they sometimes sag and fall off the supports.
I think this was the STL-file of the model:
overhangtest11e.stl 117.66 kB · 3 downloads
Also, for bigger models or difficult to reach areas: make very sure you implement enough features to insert pliers, hooks, knifes, and other tools to remove the supports. So you don't get stuck with unreachable and unremovable supports. This make take quite a lot of planning in complex models. Here too: the supports took way more time to model and test, than the table itself.
Hey Geert,
Thanks for these tips and the .stl. I'll try and construct something similar for my model. Cheers!
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Interesting tips, thanks. It would be more important for the text to print good instead of the back of the front panel and "stoppers". I'll search for that feature or if you have info on how to create such support..most welcome :-)
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Thanks for the advise!
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Hey,
For my first print I was wondering what the optimal position for my object(small box) would be? Right now it is oriented on it's bottom but there are some problems with the handle of the box and the two stoppers on the side which would need support. Cura also indicates that the letters and number need support but these protrude only 2mm(at max). Do these elements need support? I can also position it on the back of the box instead of the bottom but then it will need alot of support (I suppose) in order for the front panel to print good. What would you advise?
Printing on an aquintance's MakerBot Replicator 2 (which as far as i know only takes PLA(?))
box dimensions:
51(width) x 34(height) x 64.2(depth)
Some images of the box & .stl attached
Thanks, a.
First ever print
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Ok, will do that. Thanks for the advice !