Turan
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Turan
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On 1/15/2020 at 3:44 PM, geert_2 said:
The fact that 3D-printing produces smell, means that it produces gasses and/or particles. Composition and long-term effects might not be totally known, in new and rarely used technologies (=rarely used compared to the number of people in general).
So I think it would be best to provide some sort of fume extraction anyway, even with the cleaner printing products like PLA and PET/polyesters. Maybe similar to the one in a kitchen? Or a simple pipe with fan that you place close above the printer? If you can not get the exhaust pipe to the outside, you could use a system with active carbon filter. Google for ideas and options.
My printers are sitting in a fume extraction cabinet in my laboratory. This is an expensive thing (5000 euro?) and way overkill, but I had it anyway and didn't use it much, so.
Thank you so much
In our lab big fumes are attached to the roof. However, they are far from the printer. My printer is creality cr-10. I did 3d printing for about 6 months. Pure petg and petg+cf (20 percent carbon fiber). I am not going to use it anymore since my research is don.e Do you think that it made some problems to my health? Sometimes I cleaned the area and once I used elecrical vacuum cleaner. I never used mask:(
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Guys
Does anybody know how much concern should we have about exposing to xt or xt-cf20 while printing regarding the health? Does it make any cancer risks?
Working in the lab where the printer is also working there I mean. The printer is opened without any shelter.
Thank
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Guys
Does anybody know how much concern should we have about exposing to xt or xt-cf20 while printing regarding the health? Does it make any cancer risks?
Working in the lab where the printer is also working there I mean. The printer is opened without any shelter.
Thanks
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Hello
i have one strange problem. When I take out the nozzle, the thermistor does work and it heats up to the point I order. However, when I attach the nozzle the temperature rises up to the 10 degree less than the desired temperature. For instance, when I give 250 degree it goes up to 240 degree and stops there!!
Does anybody have any idea?
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Hello,
I change the print speed to 6 mm/s intentionally in 3d printer. When I looked at the gcode it seems that for the first layer it does not imply this layer and after the second layer it starts to print in that speed. Does anybody know why? And whether I am correct? Since, I also feel it while printing. The first layer prints slowly
Thanks
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44 minutes ago, eerasen said:
You information is really effective and good to use. Please keep share more valuable information.
me?!! which part!
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8 hours ago, Catlord said:
Did you try to contact colorfabb to have this aspect ratio size ?
Of course. They did not give me. They even dont know they said since they corporate with others
Secret!!!?
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4 minutes ago, Smithy said:
Ok, so when I summarize it, then your printer is working and also the SD card itself. You can print from the SD card, but your laptop cannot read the SD card, also not with another adapter.
I would next check if it works on another computer if you have the possibility. I guess you have some problem with your laptop, maybe a driver issue for the card reader or something like that.
I checked with another laptop. It does not work. It seems that the micro card itself works but the sd card holder does not work since the second one also is not new. Other USBs work well in my laptop.
One more question. I put sd card in 3d printer and it works. When I took it off it still continues printing ! Why is that?
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I use another adaptor. It started working first and then after an hour it cannot be read also!!
the previous one works for a 6 months.
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Hello guys,
I am talking about the colorfabb xt-cf20 printing with the creality cr-10s. If anybody has the same experience please share it with me. The subject f the topic is the reason why I ask my question here. I attached the image here. You know this really irritates me. I really had bad time with this machines. It seems t hat this material is too much for this machine!!
Let me explain. Actually, I use 0.5 mm steel nozzle (It has been around 3 months that I have used this one). 0.4 mm width. It is so strange that it could not print well. Actually, it is not related to speed, temperature or so since I tried everything actually. You know sometimes it seems that it could not be squeezed out from the nozzle or micro temporarily clogged! It seems for me that the carbon fibers cannot squeeze out for a while which I called it micro temporarily clogged.
Maybe the nozzle is done! I don't know maybe even the machine itself!
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23 hours ago, Catlord said:
Ok, here's what I understand of your demand :
filament are shrinking after being printed so if you print a 20mm cube, it will be 19.XX after being printed.
Is that the meaning of your demand ?
if it's the case, here's are a few tips :
first: check this page :
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/
you will find the coeficient of thermal expansion of several kind of filament.
Second :
download the calibration cross on thingiverse :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766
there is an excel file where you have all you need. shrinking coeficient, steps calibration, and so on.
My advice:
YOU MUST CALIBRATE YOUR STEPS CAREFULLY !
- use a depth gauge and an adequat mount (search on thingiverse)
- place your gauge on the X axis, use pronterface, do 200mm while measuring with the depth gauge. modifiy your step/mm value, repeat until you have exactly 200mm+-0.03mm
do it again for Y and Z axis.
like this, you know that when you ask to print a XX mm piece, your printer will do it exactly and if you piece is not XXmm, it's due to other parameters like shrinking .
this way you will be able to calculate the ratio you need 😉
Thanks you so much
I am not sure whether I got wrong or not
However, I need the aspect ratio in micro size. Before starting are these steps for finding the aspect ratio in micro size. For example normally the carbon fiber length is 100 micrometer and diameter is 7.5 micrometer
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13 hours ago, Catlord said:
I don't understand what you mean : are you speaking about the size of the carbon micro fibers inside the filament ?
Academic in wich field ?
I work in a research facility. (I have acess to an electroic microscope)
Thank you so much Catlord. Yep. I mean the length to diameter ratio of this specific XT-CF20 after printing. Since in 3d printing we the fibers are cut and I could not actually measure it correctly. Did you have any experience?
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I have a slot that I put micro sd card in it and then enter it to laptop.
Then, I just use that sd card for 3d printer
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5 minutes ago, Smithy said:
When the SD card is working in the printer but not on the laptop, it could be that the sd card is formatted in a way, the laptop cannot read. But it is unlikely, normally the laptop reads nearly everything.
But try another SD card, it is the easiest way. Maybe reformat it on the laptop to FAT32 and give it a try.
Thanks
Another one is also not working. Formatting by itself? If it is formatted then it still works on 3d printer right?
Actually, normal usb's work in the laptop.
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28 minutes ago, Smithy said:
When you connect the laptop via USB cable, then you print from your laptop. So be careful to not disconnect it or let it go to sleep. It is not a good idea to go that way, but your only way if your SD card is not working.
As far as I know your printer has no internal storage, so just sending the file to the printer via USB is not possible.
Thanks Smithy
I have one more question. When I attach the empty slot to the laptop it recognizes it, however, when I put sd card inside the slot the laptop cannot show it.
The sd card works inside 3d printer. So, could we conclude that the problem is with the slot itself?
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28 minutes ago, Smithy said:
When you connect the laptop via USB cable, then you print from your laptop. So be careful to not disconnect it or let it go to sleep. It is not a good idea to go that way, but your only way if your SD card is not working.
As far as I know your printer has no internal storage, so just sending the file to the printer via USB is not possible.
Thanks Smithy
I have one more question. When I attach the empty slot to the laptop it recognizes it, however, when I put sd card inside the slot the laptop cannot show it.
The sd card works inside 3d printer. So, could we conclude that the problem is with the slot itself?
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Hello,
Previously, while I change the feed rate manually, e.g. from 100% to 200% the speed of the feed also increased in 3d printer. However, it is not changed now while I alter it manually. What is the problem? It should work actually.
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Hi,
My sd card holder is not working such that my laptop cannot read the SD card, so I cannot connect the sd card to laptop. However, there is a connector from 3d printer to the laptop. How can I use it? I want to transfer file to the 3d printer? What are the other options? Can I send my file to the 3d printer and then disconnect the laptop? is there any easy way?
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Anybody knows the aspect ratio (fiber length to the diameter of this material)? Anybody had any academic experience?
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Thanks you
How about the layer adhesion. What causes the bad adhesion?
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13 hours ago, Smithy said:
No it should not make any difference for the knurled wheel, but it could be the reason why your nozzle gets clogged. So try to print about 35mm/sec and check it again.
Another reason could be, that your middle fan (behind the print head) is not working. This fan cools the upper part of the hot end and if the fan is not working or blocked by something, then the filament gets too soft before it enters the block and will also cause a clogged hot end.
The fan starts automatically when the nozzle heats up (above 40°C) or is running always (depending on your board revision)
Thank you so much. There are two fans working right? One is in front of me and the others on the right hand side of the hotend. The one in front of me is working always while start printing but the others depend on my gcode.
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I have one more question. Could high speed printing result in wearing the feeder grip sooner?
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Hello,
I have clogging problem. I want to print 16 layers each 0.2 mm but after printing 10 layers it is going to be clogged above the nozzle. Actually it is still hot and by pressing I can easily remove the material inside. What could be the problems? I have a crazy question. I loosened the filament around the spool since I think that when it is tightened it is hard for the machine to pull it! It might be crazy, I don't know actually. When I turned back in the morning I see that it is tightened and clogged. (I changed the knurled wheel since I thought that it was worn out).
Would you please help me?
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23 hours ago, Catlord said:
Your are cumulating lots of oproblems.
- STOP printing at these T° with your stock printer !
As you have already done it, your bowden tube must be replaced. remove if and you will see that the end part that touch the nozzle is in bad shape. cut this part (perpendicularly !)
I don't have a Cr-10 but an ultimaker original and an ender that is pretty the same as the CR10.
If you change the hotend, you will need :
- to make adjustement in the firmware (to reach 250/260°C)
- to run a PID tuning (use pronterface)
Why do you write your own Gcode ?
use Cura (it's free).
Print speed 25mm/s
low speed doens't mean you won't wear your nozzle ! And this ultra low speed will cause you other problems (filement is made to melt a little, with 2mm/sec, your filament stay TOOOO LONG in the nozzle !
stick: use a PEI Sheet.
I strongly advice you to watch these youtube channels :
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1Ak7Ir1WMOWauY_oH00-Qg (and look for LUKE'S manual for mounting ender3, preety the same for CR-10)
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrFGsH4pplqjFXJqLcjykNQ
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDk3ScYL7OaeGbOPdDIqIlQ
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPFChjpOgkUqckj3378jt5w
in these channels you will find ALL THE ANSWERS you need to understand where you problems come from and how to solve it.
it will take you a long time by it's worse the effort 😉
My advice :
First you need to repair your printer: it's damaged as you have printed at a too high T° => cut your bowden tube (or better, buy a capricorn tube with the pliers that cuts perpendicularly)
run a few print with PLA at standard T° to check if everything is ok
you still want to print XT-CF 20 ?
=> buy a microswiss hotend
=> change the firmware ( look at teaching tech videos about it)
=> run a PID Tuning
=> proceed to ALL tunings (temperature tower, stringing, dimensionnal accuracy, extruder tuning,...)
Then you will have no trouble to print XT-CF20 filament.
Low grade ( and even high grade) 3D printers are NOT plug n' play unfortunatly. it requires a tons of tweaking and learning 😕
Thank you so much. So by microswiss you mean sth like https://www.robolinkmarket.com/cr-10-j-head-hotend-v6-24v-50w-ender-3.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-L59h1CSSzq2046IMEvLFUGHJw8nnMpxuMBTzdDEQqsEf1r4JESfyAaAgekEALw_wcB
?
And, I use 0.5mm nozzle. Is it ok?
Why I use gcode? Since we cannot print some staffs with out gcode. It is an academic work actually
If we buy that hotend then changing firmware would be a really annoying task since this is an academic work and it might take too long to FINISH THIS WORK (so changing firmware is really necessary right?) Unfortunately, I have limited amount of time
Health colorfabb xt
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Thank you again
Yep our lab has big ventilation but not exactly above the printer but attached to the roof wall. No I don't want to use it again however I have concern for previoys months. Actually it has not smell or so but the carbon fiber part has some problems at all. I should use mask that time. Hopefully it was 6 months and it was not everyday or continuously