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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 (Ext

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  1. Anyone? is the occasional backwards rotation on the feed motor normal?
  2. Update for those who have previously commented and anyone else interested. Thanks for advice by the way! I finally managed to get hold of the correct genuine Motor from https://3dgbire.com/ very helpful and not too bad price. I decided to keep the olsen block and downloaded the latest cura software which allows you to choose the printer and it even has an option for Ultimaker 2 Extended olsen block. so i chose that one. Its set for 0.4 Nozzle so this is what i used. It loaded the filament ok and printed a couple of test prints. See below a turtle that i printed for my daughter. It was a bit hit and miss though. Im not getting very good adhesion on the glass build plate so a couple of times i had to abort the print as it started dragging the raft around with the head. Also i can hear that the feed motor is still occasionally skipping. Well not slipping but makes a noise and the Knurled wheel rotates approximatly 1/3 of a turn the wrong way dragging the filament back and then starts feeding as normal again. Its as if its torque sensing some resistance and then back winding to reduce the pressure. Is this behaviour normal? should i be worried. Im thinking of selling the printer, its a shame because i don't think there is anything fundamentally wrong with it, Im just paranoid now and don't have the time to experiment with the settings.
  3. He said its usually in the software or could be a jumper setting on the board. I didn't see any jumpers or dip switches on the board when i fitted the new motor so i guess i need a new motor, although finding an 1684MA model in the UK is proving difficult. I will check the bearing, that hole plastic assembly did come apart when fitting the hot end and a loose piece of black plastic fell out and i couldn't find where it wents so maybe this was to retain the bearing. Ahhhh the joys of 3D printing. Regards Scribbler
  4. I have spoken to the very helpful staff at Zapp automation where i got the motor from and they have advised that very few people stock the 0.9deg. This is the only difference in the motor i purchased which is 1.8deg. They suggested that the problem could be overcome by doubling the resolution or micro-stepping in the software. They used the example" if its set to 5 steps then double to 10 steps". Unfortunately i am unsure how to do this. I think this is what gr5 was describing in the earlier posts. Does anyone know where in the software i can change these values. Regards Scribbler
  5. Thank you very much Tinkergnome, i will look into getting this. What about the Hot end kit i included a link for. Should i replace this also or is the new one i ordered ok? Is it possible to upgrade the Black filament mechanism to the newer White version of the Plus model, I assume this is an improved system or should i just stick with the black standard. After all its the Knurled wheel slipping on the Filament thats most of the problem. Regards Scribbler
  6. Having had another look it does look like its the UM2 extended and not the plus see pictures below. Thanks for clarifying. So based on this information what do i need to replace to get this working again or should i buy parts to upgrade? The motor i purchased had the same serial /part number as the one i removed. Regards Scribbler
  7. P.S. on the tinker firmware you said 5th from the bottom but my printer is UM2+ Extended so should i get the 5th from the top?
  8. thanks for the above. Im not really into tinkering to be honest im more of a fit and forget type as long as its working, Do you have a link to a genuine feed motor if the one i fitted isn't correct and the original nozzle. I like OEM parts rather than aftermarket i just couldn't find them when i was looking. Well not for a reasonable price anyway. Regards Scribbler
  9. The motor was off ebay, and the hot end kit but the serial number matched perfectly. Links below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SY42STH47-1684A-High-Torque-Hybrid-Stepper-Motors/222732403671?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ultimaker2-Nozzle-Heater-Block-Cleaning-Needles-Sharp-nosed-scorpion-UK/143427750276?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 If i need a genuine Ultimaker stepper motor does anyone have the link?
  10. Thanks for the quick reply, I have reset factory defaults as a precaution but will now have a go at updating the firmware to see if that fixes the issue. I did have to cut and solder the 4 wires on the motor it was hard wired into the motor the white plastic bit didn't unclip. and the ends were just loose. I used a drill to rewind them in pairs as per the original colour combo though and put them back through the ferrite core. I did heat up the nozzle to remove the blob of filament and got it clear but the brass block was all discoloured and burnt looking, the old stepper motor was just skipping all the time causing future blockages which is why i decided to change both. The white ptfe bit had gone a bit cloudy on the end also so i thought it needed changing. I don't understand how the nozzles can be interchangeable when i heat it to 210 deg. It just pours out the end of the nozzle if its above 0.4 Regards Scribbler
  11. Hi new to the forum, I have an Ultimaker 2+ extended which has been faultless for about 1 & 1/2 years However i let someone else use it and they loaded some filament and forgot about it so it backed up and created a huge ball of filament on the end of the nozzle. I tried various cleaning methods but the Knurled wheel at the back had ground through the filament and was unable to get it working again. I Purchased a hot end kit so Olsen block ptfe bush spring etc it came with removable nozzles which im not sure which size to use the original was part of the block. I also replaced the stepper motor which i had to cut the connector off the old one and solder onto the new wires. Everything was hooked up ready to go but now when i try to load the filament it smacks the filament into the Olsen block at speed makes a screeching noise and the knurled wheel grinds a groove in the filament. When its printing the knurled wheel is slipping on the filament and then occasionally it will 'back wind' and retract slightly and then go forward again (still slipping). Can anyone with a greater understanding of this equipment give me an idea of whats happening and what i need to do to get this working again. I don't mind spending a bit of money on it but i just need to get it working again. It doesn't seam like its that far off just can't get it to feed correctly. My understanding is the Knurled wheel should grip the filament and not skip or slip and should be a smooth gradual rotation. Regards Scribbler
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