DadOfThree
-
Posts
13 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by DadOfThree
-
-
On 1/5/2021 at 10:35 AM, geert_2 said:
I would probably use the vertical position, and indeed use a very wide brim for bonding to the glass. Or design a custom brim in the CAD model.
If you want to make custom supports in CAD for a single-nozzle printer, you could try free-hanging supports. Without supports the arcs might look a bit like grapes.
These below are free-hanging supports. Note that this is a very small model: the opening where the supports are hanging in, is only 5mm wide. The ribs on top of the supports are 0.5mm wide and high. Between support-ribs and the underside of the roof is a tiny gap between 0.2mm and 0.5mm (adapt this to what works best for your model: narrower gaps give more accuracy, but support is harder to remove).
The supports attach to the side-walls by the stringing alone. This is enough to keep them in place, but makes it easy to remove them later on. The 1mm staircase underside improves stability and reduces curling-up of the support while printing (compared to triangular undersides).
The tiny connection-tabs on the side-walls (shining through the supports) improve connecting to the walls, make removal easier, and minimise damaging the walls. These tabs are ca. 0.2mm high and wide, and 0.5mm long. It took me some time to come up with all this, but it works well for my designs.
If you have a dual-nozzle printer, maybe you can still use this concept: make the supports in the same material as the model, and provide a support-layer in-between this support and the model. So that would fill up the gap that is present here. Then you get a nearly perfect underside of the model, without using too much support material. See the support-sandwich below.
Try-out and optimise these concepts on a small test part only, before doing the whole print, so you don't waste too much time and material. You may need to adapt them to your models and dimensions.
This is a lot of information, and thank you. I need to work on this.
-
On 12/29/2020 at 8:02 AM, GregValiant said:
Next to the "search" box at the top of the settings is an icon. Click on it and select "all" so unhide all the Cura settings.
There are a lot of settings under "Support". One of them is an option called Support Placement. If "Touching Buildplate" is enabled then those gaps won't be supported. Change it to "everywhere" and the supports will show up.
That is a fussy model. The small features on the ends of the legs would print best as your second photo shows. If the sides were parallel instead of at a small angle it would print best laying down with a support blocker over the horizontal holes. This looks like a case where the part is designed to release from a mold, rather than be FDM printed.
I like it like this. When you open a 3mf file it will have all the settings and the printer (Ender 3 Pro in my case). You will need to switch back to your printer and look carefully at the settings to assure that they will work for you. There is one support blocker to keep support from the small horizontal holes.
Well, I tried printing and it was going so well, and then this happened. I just don't see how the folks on Thingiverse got this part to print. I don't have enough experience yet with supports and all the other options available to help with this. I clearly need to practice.
-
Hi Folks,
I have a profile that works well on my printer and for what I am trying to do. My next step is to test out for better detail with a .2mm nozzle. With this profile selected, I choose the .2mm nozzle under, "Nozzle Size". When I do that, my custom profile is hidden. I am not sure what I should be adjusting to get this to work with a .2mm nozzle?
Any suggestions?
-
Sorry for the late response. Thank you both for the suggestions. Going to work on this next week.
-
Thank you. I'm not necessarily looking to avoid using supports. I guess my inexperience is getting the best of me and not understanding how a 3d Printer will handle those gap / arcs. After slicing with supports enabled and having the part on its side, I didn't see any difference in the preview. I was expecting to see something in the middle, where that gap is.
-
Hi Folks,
I'm still learning some of the more advanced features in Cura, and I have very little experience with supports. I installed the "Auto Orientation" Plug-In as sometimes it puts things in a better position. When I import the attached part, the way it's placed doesn't make sense to me that it would be the best way to print. The Auto Orientation plug-in also keeps the part on it's side exposing gaps that I think would be hard to print. I manually moved the part upright and I think this should be more efficient, but I'd like some advice before I try it. Attached are some pictures of what I'm talking about.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
`
-
Hi there,
I'd like to play around with the y acceleration within GCode, not the firmware. I'm looking to slow it down, but not sure how. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
-
Update:
In Cura Print Settings, under Build Plate Adhesion Type, selecting "Raft" seems to help for my current setup. So, I guess I'm all set for now, and really looking forward to having a glass build plate. -
Oh, I also tried using the painters tape sticky side down, but that didn't work either. There are so many videos of people doing this online, and I have no idea why? The tape is a smooth surface, and doesn't stick at all.
What am I missing here?
-
HI Folks,
I’m a novice at 3d printing and have the Ender Pro 3. Due to a busy work schedule, my planned upgrades are about a month away, (Glass Bed, Auto Bed Leveling, Firmware updates, etc..).
In the meantime, I’m having are hard time getting my projects to stick.
Here’s what I’ve tried:· Using the paper method, I level the bed each time about in inch from each corner and I repeat about 4 times.
· I washed the magnetic removable bed each time with warm soap and water.
· I’ve tried using the glue stick method, but after applying about two thin layers, it drys, and doesn’t get sticky again. (I tried upping the bed temperature to about 60 but doesn’t help.
· I tried using painters’ tape to wrap around the magnetic removable bed with the sticky side up. This sort of worked, but I wasn’t able to get the tape to lay flat since it’s only sticky on one side, so, the print jobs first lawyer wasn’t flat.
I would greatly appreciate some tips here. 😊
-
Oh, OK, so, when I have a file that I like after making changes, I should be saving and keeping the STL files, for later use and or modifications? Since I'm new to this, I thought the gcode was what I should be reopening to modify.
-
Hi folks,
I'm new to 3d printing, about 2 months. I have the Ender 3 Pro.
After I download a stl file, I open it up in Cura. I then click slice, and everything is fine, with no errors. I then save it as the .gcode format. When I go back to open the same file I just created, I get the error below. This is happening every time with every file. Any idea what I might be doing wrong?
G-code Details.
Make sure the g-code is suitable for your printer and printer configuration before sending the file to it. The gcode representation may not be accurate.Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
Look for advice on the best way to print this part
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Oh, I imported your .3mf file wrong, I'm going to try this again.