Crono986
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Crono986
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22 hours ago, geert_2 said:
Just wondering: while printing, can you see it stuttering? Or if you put your finger on the head, can you feel more vibrations in the head than in the other printer? And if you put your finger on the feeder, or the filament just before the feeder: do you feel (more) stuttering? This might give a clue whether it is mechanical in the head drive train, in the feeder traject, or electrical due to temperature changes, or power supply changes, or interference or something?
Good tips
The feeder feeds really smooth. Doesn't seem to be an issue there.
The head does stutter, but not anything I haven't seen other printers do - especially if it comes to infill between close walls.
Remember, this issue is only happening on one axis.
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Already in talks with Erin Oliver. I wanted to try one last time to troubleshoot with community before sending it to Memphis. I believe that is the way to go, though.
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Team,
First and foremost I wanted to thank you all for being so patient with me in working through this. I am grateful Ultimaker has such a great community that people would go out of their way to help strangers.That said, here is the print from the second printer - same exact settings.
Both printers were bought used from the same ex-retailer.Belts have been tightened and greased.
Build plate screws are in and stable - I manually level it and active leveling is on.
I will film a few layers and see if that answers any questions.
I have tried prints with achingly slow speed, acceleration, and jerk.
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Your X and Y faces are so much cleaner than mine!
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Here is the first print from one of my 3Es.
I will print on the other 3E as soon as it is complete.
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Just now, RudydG said:
Are you sure your filament is dry? do you still have your 2+?
Yes 100% the filament is dry. It was brand new prior to printing.
I have put hundreds of prints through this printer with tons of different filaments. It is not a filament issue.
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Here are the three prints with three STL levels:
Left is SW default coarse, middle is SW default fine, right is super fine (what I typically print)
The problem persists.
ToughPLA black tonight. -
And yea, I already know it won't look like that.
Wow that is smooth.
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59 minutes ago, RudydG said:
Here you are:
UM3
AA 0.4
Latest cura, default setting 0.15
Polymaker tough pla black
The damage to the brim is a result of a to high adhesive from the first layer (normally i di a Z 0.1 offset)
Greetings,
Rudy
59 minutes ago, RudydG said:I'll have two on each printer tonight.
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I miss with brims and rafts supports very often
I also change infills and speed depending on if i'm prototyping or not.
I've re-downloaded the STL you linked to make sure we are on the same page.
I will print that cube using the purchased ToughPLA on each of my 3E machines and report the results.
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5 hours ago, nallath said:
I hardly ever change the settings. I tend to just stick to the default profiles that Cura has.
I run defaults on my 2+
The only reason I fiddled with the 3E slicing settings is because of this issue
I am printing a high poly cylinder and a medium poly cylinder now on the same print to see if it's an STL export issue
ToughPLA also arrives today, so let's coordinate on what we would like to print
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I think it'd be best if someone other than myself provided the slicing STL / settings - that way we can eliminate that as a variable.
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I've pulled the trigger on black. I'll let you know when it comes in, and we can share a common test print.
Can you please share with me a GCode for a UM3E?
Or we can do it manually by going through all the settings, whichever you prefer. -
2 minutes ago, RudydG said:
Sorry, i don't use PETG, this is not the same as Tough-pla Polymax
Rudy, my mistake. I thought "PolyMax" was Tough PLA.
I'm having trouble finding it in 2.85mm
Do you have a direct purchase link?
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About to pull the trigger on this:
Let me know.
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I have no problem going through Cura and sending screenshots of my settings, but wouldn't using the equivalent GCODE file be better?
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Also, I appreciate all the help. Thank you.
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RudyG,
Please link me the filament to purchase, and go ahead and send me your GCode.
I will load your GCode and filament and do the print.That way, there is without question a hardware problem.
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I have used filament from Hatchbox, Ultimaker, Gizmoworks, E-Sun, and Overture.
No dice. Despite the low print quality, I am still able to use it to print load-bearing, non-aesthetic parts - which is what I have been doing.
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5 hours ago, nallath said:
It looks like a buffer underrun. Have a look at
That does look like my issue, except the test cubes are incredibly low poly and are not cylindrical. I will try again with lower resolution STL and report back. -
7 hours ago, Smithy said:
Hi Crono986
I write that you don't think we are ignoring your problem, but I guess and thats also my problem, that you have already tried all the good advises we normally give. Why in your case nothing helps is a good question and to be honest I don't know.
Is this a new printer or a used one?
In case of a new printer I would really get in touch with your reseller. In my opinion there is something wrong with the printer, but on the other hand you have nearly replaced or checked everything which could cause the issues.
Thank you for the reply.
It is a used printer from a previously certified Ultimaker reseller (they don't sell Ultimaker any more). They have been troubleshooting this with me for two months.
I believe, since all the forums and Facebook groups and people I have talked to have given me their advice and I have still been unable to solve it - that sending it back to Ultimaker is likely my last course of action.
Can I at least get confirmation that this print quality is not normal? -
Replaced silicone covers. Did an XY calibration. No dice.
I'm about to send this back to Memphis to have them work on it, but the price tag of that whole procedure is high.I am imploring this forum one last time. Can anybody help me??
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Bump again.
I have tried everything and would really appreciate some help.I have done everything from:
replacing card, tensioned belts, lubed axles, played with cura settings, including:
changing print speed, acceleration, and control, editing layer height - just about anything i can think of
the Y axis has trouble lining up. here are some images.
UM3E on top, UM2+ on the bottom. Look at the inside of the C and O
The 2+ is almost perfectly aligned
the 3E is shoddy by comparison
Here are the Y faces of the Um3E test cube, left is 0.06mm layer height and right is 0.15mm layer height at 30mm/s
The X face is actually quite sharp, but you can tell the layers don't line up with one another because the Y face is shoddy.
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Bump. Does anyone have any ideas?
I've played with temperatures. Rope test is fine. Any help at all.
Here is my test cube.
UM3E Print Resolution
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Yep. Checked pulleys. I bought the box from Ultimaker so I can ship them one of my UM3Es. I'm just going to have them go over it.
Something curious did happen though. On one of my UM3Es, I produced an amazingly beautiful print (no changes from me, I've been cranking out prints 24/7). Excited, I printed another part.
Exact same printer (UM3E)
Exact same slice settings (default 0.1mm fine)
Exact same filament
Exact same orientation
All parameters I can think of, consistent
And yet I produced two very different prints.
What could cause this? (look at the difference in the black piece)
