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ljbeng

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Posts posted by ljbeng

  1. Thanks and your correct,  it's not a true IDEX but I couldn't come up with a term for it.  I did tie the X axis' together with a stiff rod and a flex coupler.  That was only because the BTT board I used had only 5 stepper drivers.    If I get a different board, then I could make the X axis 2 independent steppers and home switches.  The Z it a single driver and 2 outputs and I only leveled the bed under the E0 gantry then moved the bed to the E1 and I made a special piece to slightly adjust the z-rod up or down to set the gap there.  In Marlin there is nothing special other than 2 extruders and the 580 mm of y travel to go from home to the end of the run.

  2. I took 2 ender 3 printers and combined the frames into one to make an IDEX printer. I replaced the Y direction Extrusion with a 700mm long piece so there are 2 hotend X direction gantries.  The bed can now move between nozzles in the y direction.  I have made my calibrations and 3 successful multi color prints.  To "fool" cura into slicing for my situation, I did all the following.  If I don't make the Y direction in Cura 900mm as soon as I assign a piece to Extruder 2, the entire build plate turns gray and I cannot slice.  When I make it 900mm then the middle stay white and I can slice.  When I sliced  a project, I looked at the gcode and all the Y direction values seemed reasonable so I did all my calibration by changing the Extruder 2 Offset values.  The prints came out fine.  I just need to know if there is a way to make the y direction be smaller and if I am doing this correctly.  The beds are standard Ender and measure 235mm x 235mm.  The nozzles are offset by ~353mm in Y.  The x offset came out close and was -.6mm.

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    New FFF printer

     

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  3. There is a maker, "scottdee" who has decided to put my name and my business name as a "villian" on most of his thing descriptions. How can I get that off of there?  I have no idea why he does it.   I have never printed anything of his and never will.  I'm not even interested in the items where he puts my name in the description.  (Luke B. and BestBattlePlan) Is there some policy to prevent him from sharing my personal information on a public website?  It's really creepy.  Thanks.

  4. Let me know if I am wrong...

     

    I start with the standard profile and change parameters A,B,C and D.  I save this as Custom1.

    I start with the standard profile and change 4 different parameters, E, F, G and H.  I save this as Custom2.

     

    I now start with Custom2, slice, print then select Custom1.  I now have a profile loaded with ALL 8 changes, A,B,C,D,E,F,G and H???  This seems to be what is happening and ruining prints and hours of time.

  5. If you accidentally attach an SD card with the "Read Only" switch activated, Cura will indicate that it cannot save to the SD card.  Even if you fix the issue, move the switch and re-insert the card, Cura still prevents you from writing to the SD card until you close Cura and start it again.  When that happens, I write to the hard drive then copy the file but this just seems like a bug.

  6. Not sure if Cura software peeps read these posts but I'd like when I press Preview to see the "test" line that is printed (Ender3 and CR10).  Once in a while my  print walks over that line and things get fused.  I do not want to remove the line, I like it 🙂

  7. I had Cura opened with a design and I plugged in a usb serial port for something else I was working on (Arduino).  Cura must have opened the serial port automatically???  I spent hours trying to get my Arduino to talk to my pc.  I closed Cura so I could reboot and the serial port worked again for the Arduino.  I opened Cura and the port was "opened by another application" so It dawned on me I have to close Cura anytime I am doing my normal programming and electrical work.  Is there a configuration setting I can change to make Cura not open usb serial ports?  I don't ever use Cura connected to any printer.

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