MPestana
-
Posts
19 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by MPestana
-
-
for now, I just added additional thickness on the walls and at least I am not able to break it by hand. Didn´t try yet to install it on the machine. Thank all for the inputs
-
Hi
I am trying to replicate stainless steel plates that make lateral transport on a packaging machine .
I notice clearly that printed directions on xy are much stronger than on z axes but the part has a geometry that goes into z axis, any advice on best material, best printing orientation, the best type of infill etc...
I just tried to print it on UM Tough PLA, but I can brake with my hands so not even worth trying on the machine
I have tried printing with flat side along the plate but then the hook with the slot gets also fragile, and in real there are tensions over there
in attach a visual explanation of what I am trying to do
thks
Regards
-
6 hours ago, tomnagel said:
I am biased because I work for Ultimaker, but I can say I find the PVA removal station a joy to use. It just fixes the hassle that PVA gives. It features a basket with a lid on top that makes sure the part is submerged in water (most part float), you can lock the part in the basket so that it doesn't spin with the water, and PVA removal goes 3-4 times faster than in still water.
The water bucket sits on a base station, adn can easily be carried to a sink to empty and refill.
It's all not rocket science, but the product really is a joy to use.
Thank you, would any type of heating the water improve? Regards
-
Hi
I have an Ultimaker 5s in my workplace and in spite of cura uploads 3rd party filaments, like Igus (Tribofilaments), it doesn´t store on the printer menu, so whenever there is a reel change or a print, it shows the warning: material conflict or something like that, well it ends up printing but my question is, shouldn´t the profile when it´s sent to the machine somehow be save as a new material....if cura recognizes and sets automatically the parameters to third party filaments, it would be logical that the printer would learn or at least store the filament as one more to choose, does this make sense? is it possible to force this to happen?
thks
regards
-
Hi
Does anyone has experience with PVA removal station, does it make a difference? I am thinking of purchasing for the company I work for, but like to have some reviews on it, and didn´t find any on the web
thank you
-
1
-
-
Thank you , very detailed
Regards
-
1
-
-
On 2/20/2023 at 1:10 AM, gr5 said:
It's kind of a long video but if you follow these advices you will have a new problem - getting parts to come off the glass.
-
On 2/20/2023 at 8:02 AM, ahoeben said:
Yes. The "tune" settings start at what is currently printing. You change the "live" value.
I think that once the gcode file specifies a new temperature or cooling fan value, that may override what you tuned. The speed change in the tune menu works a bit different than the other two values you mention and it is mostly a "multiplier" for the speeds in the gcode.
Thank you for the explanation
Regards
-
Dear All
I would like to know if the settings on cura , are passed to ultimaker 2+ when printing, namely temperature, fan cooling speed etc... In know some are, like layer thickness, fill pattern, type of adhesion (brim raft, etc....) . Once the file is in printing mode if we go to tune and adjust the speed, or temperature, of fan cooling, does that overrides the slicer indications?
Thks
-
Hi
I am having some warp with colorfabb PLA PHA , um2+ , settings 195 º , speed 90%, bed 60 º , enclosured um, fan 33% any suggestions?
Thks
-
14 minutes ago, MPestana said:
Thanks for the inputs, unfortunately the green chamfer is out of question because the machine attachment, where the part is fixed fills that area (I know that is not possible to see clear on the photo because sugar is also dusty 🙂 ) - There is clearly a bending stress what the plate is moving 1 kg bags across the machine. Please check the original part, they produce it in 2 , the base and then the welded U shape plate. The base has a slot for the ushape to fit. Thank you for the inputs. I am making a first prototype just to check dimensions on PLA-PH (colorfabb) and then make final part on PA-CF low warp (Colorfabb)
-
22 minutes ago, gr5 said:
Second choice material would be nylon as it's tough as hell and even though technically it's the same "strength", because it is more flexible it can handle probably 5X the torque and 5X the load. But then you need to worry about heated chamber (cover your um2 with a cardboard box), drying the filament for 24 hours just before printing, and layer "grain". And also your white teflon part in the um2 would only last about 300 hours of printing at nylon temps whereas with PLA it might last 1000 hours. Those white teflon parts are cheap but it's annoying to take the head apart and change it all the time.
Back to part alterations (click drawing for higher res).
I'd round those corners pointed to by green arrow as structurally they do nothing. They might also be sharp.
I'd add some triangular braces as shown with green triangle. Such that screw head fits between 2 triangular braces. And tooling to tighten the screw has to fit.
I'd thicken the red hashed area as much as possible so the part can handle the torque when that paddle hits a sack of sugar. Can you double the height? Is there room?
And finally I'd strengthen the "paddle" itself with either traingular braces as shown - but thicker - like 4mm thick. Or I'd just make the whole back of that paddle solid. This is designed to be made from sheet metal bent and then welded to the other piece. With 3d printing just make it solid (well with 30% infill inside that paddle).
If you can make the red hash mark area surface move up (and/or the bottom move down) then maybe you can add a larger washer to distribute forces more. Currently the bolt head surface area is pretty small. Lots of forces there. I'd be tempted to use some sheet metal with holes in it and melt it into the plastic to distribute the forces among the plastic. On the side of the part with the hole through it - the right most surface in the below image. I guess I'd see if this breaks first and *where* it breaks.
Thanks for the inputs, unfortunately the green chamfer is out of question because the machine attachment, where the part is fixed fills that area (I know that is not possible to see clear on the photo because sugar is also dusty 🙂 ) - There is clearly a bending stress what the plate is moving 1 kg bags across the machine. Please check the original part, they produce it in 2 , the base and then the welded U shape plate. The base has a slot for the ushape to fit. Thank you for the inputs.
-
the parts are the ones that you see opened and are attached to the chain, like you identified, they are more open on the curved side of the conveyor and they stay together on the horizontal conveying, where they actually convey 1 kg bags
The slot on the drawing is where the bolt to the chain happens. I will try splitting because making one part will always break on the z-axis , I will give a try with this design attached, any suggestion on material?
-
16 hours ago, gr5 said:
You can split it up and bolt it together which is a great option, especially if only a portion breaks then you only have to reprint half.
Or you can enable support - since this is a factory setting, it doesn't have to be pretty. When you remove the support, you get "ugly" surfaces where the support was attached. But if you don't care about that then you can just enable support. And/or put the surfaces that need support away from surfaces you need to be smooth.
Your first photo is helpful but the second photo - I can't make heads nor tails out of that, lol. Oh wait - is it that small part just to the right of the right orange thing? There appears to be 4 pairs of parts that are similar to your drawing where one item in each pair is roughly mirror image from the other.
It looks like orange "bags" of sugar and defective/leaking ones are pushed off the edge with the part you want to 3d print.
I'd print it such that "plane1" represents the glass and just use default supports. If it fits on the printer in that orientation.
-
On 2/14/2023 at 4:29 AM, gr5 said:
Here's a guide I made to help choose filaments. You can zoom in with the mouse. There are 2 charts. The first one has to do with the 2 paramaters that usually describe strength. The second chart has to do with temperature and ease of printing.
There are gains to using CF or GF. But they are small. If your parts are breaking already then maybe you need to redesign the shape, or use metal (e.g. rods or screws) or fiber or come up with a whole new approach. If you are going to print with GF or CF you really should get a bondtech feeder.
First you should understand the relationship between strength and flexibility. What some people call "strong" or "tough" is actually weaker but more flexible and so tougher. the more flexible, the more likely the part can survive being driven over by a car. But if you are using the part only under tension (rare but still), flexibility is not important or helpful and strength is more important. Another way to look at it: stiffer parts tend to be more brittle. Like glass. Steel is an exception. So nylon is slightly weaker but much more flexible than PLA or PETG. So Nylon tends to be extremely durable and tough but it's not good for making gears (too flexible!). Add some glass fibers and you can get the best of both worlds but the GF and CF fill are very small pieces so the added strength and stiffness is not nearly as good as long fibers. You might only get 20% improvement.
Thank you, is really cool the data treatment. I am trying to replace lateral ss parts of a packaging machine conveyor with 3d printed parts, the thing is that since the part changes in orientation is difficult . I guess I will have to split the part to keep orientation along the xy and use bolts.
-
Ok, that you for the reply, so what simmilar filament type can give me the same mechanical properties?. I have googled, and what I have found is a lot of people confused, some are satisfied, others are lost . I use Ultimaker 2+ and one of the things that i find good is the simplicity ...ok i have to adjust the settings for the material , and sometimes, not very often , to calibrate the bed, I have changed the fan speed , and the bed temperature, never touched neither the retraction or speed (I dont know either because is on %, not mm /s) . I am used to open the feeder regularly , and yes it concerns me if the gears worn out or if the knurled part that makes the traction worn out. But thank you for the advice, I am just concerned that simplicity becomes complexity .
-
I have already a micro swiss steel nozzle , isn´t the bondtech too much technical? and should I risk that, with the risk of not being able to go to the original state. As far as I know the firmware has to be also changed, is that correct?
-
Hi
I am working with colorfabb pa cf and I choose as filament generic pa on cura, then I go into the fan speed and change to 50% and also lower the glass temperature. But when I start printing it seems that the ultimaker 2 doesn't receive this info and I have to go on tune and manually adjust fan and bed temperature. what am I missing?
Regards
Miguel
Vase mode?
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Hi
I am trying to print bellows with tpu, but I haven't been succeded. I have tried with vase mode but it ends up a mess. How can I put spiralize without creating structures outside?
does anyone know the best technique to print bellows?
Thank you