djorn

I will have to run another series of results with different temperatures as I think that's having a big effect on the results. Do I think this is impossible to print. No, but this is definitely a torture test for your machine and will likely break it especially if you don't have a direct drive setup

@GregValiant, not a bad shout and was something I considered. i thought about printing the larger diameter circle woth the spokes going outward as one piece. Print the smaller diameter as one piece, then simply fold the spokes over, down and inward towards the smaller diameter then heat it into place or glue. However I'm I'm the hundreds quantity and can't see that working long term. Also slightly defeats the purpose of 3d printing when I could then make it out of cardboard. I think the key here is the right settings. The machine has demonstrated it can print the structure, just with a lot of stringing. It's also shown it can print it with hardly any stringing, but the quality suffers. So it's striking the right balance. Either way there will be post processing required.

Thanks all. I've now removed 95% of the stringing but do get serious blobs when there are. the 0.25 nozzle is definitely worse for stringing. Printing it tall gets better results, but the sagging is hurting my eyes, even when set very slow and lower layer heights and cooler temperatures its too much to hide. I also tried speeding it up by 150%, which actually produced very good results. Not sure whats going on here. p.s mould didn't work, the resin was too thin and broke on release

Thanks guys, I'm so close it's driving me mad. The worst part is the 0.2 should perform better but running the same settings with a 0.4 I get better results. It doesn't make any sense. I even rotated it 90 degrees so it stands tall with a 0.4 standard settings and got 0 stringing, but poor sagging. I've resulted in 3d printing a mould and casting it in resin as I'm running out of time and patience.

@Torgeir Yes this is a filter! The bent area you see was my fault trying to get rid of the stringing. After this print I realised the material was blocked and ground down so I think I'll call this a fail as breaking your machine for a 5g part doesn't make sense to me haha. I think sls or sla will work, but wanted to push the limits before I push in the card details

I just pulled this off the printer. Quality 1mm layer height 0.15 line width Wall Minimum wall line width 0.2 Travel 0.1 - retraction minimal travel 300 -max retraction count Tick - retraction before outer wall 2mm - z hop height Post Heat treatment Not sure this qualifies as possible

Here is a section sample using different spoke diameters from 0.6 in the middle 0.8 on the right and 1mm on the left. You can see that 0.6 actually performs the best which doesn't make sense to me. The black os 0.4mm nozzle and the white is a 0.25 nozzle.

I'm confused too, I'm definitely using retraction, from what I've observed it seems as though the retraction just don't kick in, or isn't effective because the spokes are too close together 🤔. I've printed over 20 samples with various retraction settings. Even minimum travel set at 0 all the way up to 0.7. I've even tried going a 5mm z hop, super slow speeds, and using a 0.25 nozzle which actually is worse.

The stringing is pretty solid, almost like it doesn't retract at all. The best result I've had was changing Jo settings except from normal mode to surface mode. The only problem is it misses out key areas like top and bottom layer. And without the ability to bypass the U5 start up process i can't even combine both modes to get a good result. I've tried increasing the width of the spokes and reducing the amount of then, not ideal, but it did manage to print and feels very sturdy, however even at the finest setting the quality isn't good enough.

Thanks @GregValiant, I wasnt aware you could display travel lines and retraction in cura. Is it possible to get the nozzle to travel into the centre between each spoke? If the stringing goes inwards or outwards then the old heat technique might be able to clean up an otherwise messy print?

Hi all sorry for my late response, been a crazy busy week travelling. Here are some images and the file. I've tried normal surface, retraction everything I could to get better results bur still failing. Test piece.stl

Hi Gr5, yes I'm talking about stringing, not sure why I said webbing. I'll post a photo of my best attempt soon as I'm away at the moment. I've run various retraction tests and printed other objects with 0 stringings, so i don't think the issue is with the material or the printer. I think its either the settings or this is simply something that cannot be done with an FDM printer Thanks

Hi All, I may be pushing the limits a little too far, so i wont be offended if most of you say this is not possible. However, Ive gotten so close, I believe it just might be possible. The issue i face is webbing between spikes. Ive attached the STL file <4g, please give it a try and see if you're able to get better results than I have, if so please guide me on what adjustments i need to make to improve this piece. Im running an S5 currently using standard UM PLA Thanks in advance! Test piece.stl