charlesrkiss

This is getting very interesting, thank you !! Okay, may I suggest that there is a default Klipper 0.5 mm radius on corners? This would not be bad under normal circumstances. It's the best I have been able to do, thus far (under differing circumstances). It's a thought I had. If I could reduce this radius down to 0.25 mm, it would be sufficient maybe. The right angle arc of the circle looks too precise (and accurate — its orientation and position) to be a machine anomaly, including the layers below. Though the input shaping is definitely off a bit. And I am completely aware of resonating, anything can happen, mysteries. I will try to disable the Klipper settings and/or go with the UltiMaker jerk/acceleration settings soon. Do you think Merlin is important to this? I would have to reflash the mcu, I imagine. I will be Googling this. Argh.

Hi Slashee, thank you so much for your comments, they really help a lot. Huge improvements have been made! I'm a bit confused between the UltiMaker and Klipper interactions/interference. Apparently, some UltiMaker settings have to be disabled for the Klipper settings to work, and/or vice versa. Conversely, I was wondering whether these corners in the image look nominal or unusual to you, because they look odd. It looks to me the corner at 9 o'clock is the result of the nozzle and extrusion stopping, and changing directions, as you indicated (or it lifts up completely and goes somewhere else, one of the corners must be that, I imagine. Also, it looks like the corner at 6 o'clock is rounded, ie., rounding the corner (not stopping and restarting), like the other two corners look. I also read somewhere that slicers may code corners at different orientations differently, such as from various directions, and perhaps doing more. The corner at 9 o'clock may be an optical illusion, but it does look very tight, like it's the corner where the nozzle started and stopped (not rounding a corner). This is just a guess. The width of the black rails coded in Blender are 0.25 mm across. The nozzle was 0.2 mm. The corner at 6 o'clock looks like it has a radius of 0.5 mm, which is twice the wall width (cross section) — two-and-a-half times the nozzle diameter. I probably need to take another photo to understand what is happening at the bottom, but is not as important as the top, and the 9 o'clock corner needs another photo from a different angle. The flat part at the top is coded in Blender as 0.10 mm across (see Blender image). And it looks like UltiMaker is dealing with it okay. The fillets are not important to me, but may help the slicer deal with a 90-degree angle, which is why I put them in. Finally, I ordered a 0.1 mm nozzle with some black Polymaker PolyMax PLA. So things are about to get squared times worse! 😹 If that is not bad enough, is it possible for a slicer or software to treat all the corners the same, eg., starting and stopping there (at each corner, and not round them)?

Okay, Slashee, I have this amazing tool I copied from GitHub (https://github.com/tjjfvi/CuraSettingsInjector/tree/master), it writes the end of the G-code with all the Ultimaker settings. Maybe you already know about it. I attached the gcode to this print. Based on the images, what settings would you change? 😹 I looks to me like the nozzle is not getting quite to the end of the line and is cutting corners, literally and figuratively, and also spends too much time (cutting the corners) and melts the surrounding material and deposits more than it should in the form of a blob. But it's much better than it was! There are so many UltiMaker settings to choose from! There are some elephants' feet I can get rid of, probably. Besides, the adhesion is too good on the PET tape, which is becoming the perfect print surface medium for these. So I have a lot of room to decrease adhesion things like width of first layer. Also, hilariously, the prints were highly electrostatically charged. As usual, but the little black squares uncontrollably jumped around like popcorn, as I would try to peel them off the PET, and would fly to other parts of the PET sheet and stick there, where there were lower energy states, apparently. 😹 I imagine I have to spray these prints with something immediately after printing, like an oil or detergent or dip it in water with a hair dryer. Is not "Jerk" the same as high acceleration and high deacceleration values at corners? I am wondering if it is that same as the square_corner_velocity setting on Klipper, because apparently I can not use both settings simultaneously. Argh. CE5S1_28_array.cup.gcode

I managed to print two separate prints and combine them. The image with green tint background is one array of 81 squares, and the image with the black background is during the insertion of the grid piece (over the print bed, over the 81 squares). The image with the white background is also both prints 'sandwiched' together, the finished product, on a sheet of paper. I ultimately failed to print both simultaneously because the bottoms stuck together. This is a problem I can work on, probably, if desired. Then, I wanted to print an additional file, the grid in white (to make the images of the two separate prints more distinguishable), but I clogged the printer after changing filaments from black to white, I presume. The print was terrible. I will have to examine this and try other prints over the next couple days. Also, I will start another discussion over on the klipper community page using the same title. I have to go over there and ask questions about pressure advance, corner velocity, and the usual acceleration/deacceleration settings. And I am definitely planning to try some of your suggestions, which may be better and simpler solutions! I will try to do all of this simultaneously over the next couple of weeks. 😹 I made a lot of progress over the last few weeks. Thank you so much Slashee !!

This is some great information, that I will have to re-read and digest. What I have now, hot off the presses, is this. There are improvements. I have to save and restart firmware, which is kinda a pain. Disabling "filling holes" probably led to the most significant change here. Nevertheless, I probably have plenty more tests. I will vary parameters by greater deltas and run fewer tests. Disabling the skirt adhesion was an important step to get several prints on the plate, LOL. The 231136 image looks best. It has corner velocity 5.0 (the default) and 0.15 pressure advance. The other two images are perhaps overshot (there is some blobbing, apparently), they are different prints. The other images have corner velocities of 7 and 8, respectively (and about the same pressure advance — less than 0.05 higher). Actually, maybe there is not the bulging I thought on 231154. I think it's an optical illusion. Under closer scrutiny, the corners appear to be very light in material. They are printed on the PET 3DLAC spray-glued onto a thermally pasted glass bed. 😹 No adhesion issues whatsoever, and they pop off easily. The photos look really weird. Maybe I should try slowing down the corner velocity a notch from here on. It's better to have the four corners not clumping together. 3D printing is amazing! Do you think I can get that 0.2 mm gap in there to work? Remember? This is just a rough test! 😹 Thanks so much for your feedback, Slashee!!

I disabled all Klipper settings in Cura (apparently), and disabled several Mesh Fixes, "Remove all holes","Union overlapping volumes," etc. I have not even gotten to printing any tests or even the file you uploaded. But that will be happening soon. In this array of sixteen (see attached .3mf file), each set of four squares are 1 mm away from each other (about 1.5 mm high). I created each set of four squares as sixteen separate files. And I plan to vary the pressure advance from 0.150 to .200, and the "square_corner_velocity" from its default (5 - 8), speeding it up a bit. Attached is the base file I used. I would select all, deselect whichever, and save as separate files in their respective positions and orientation. Is there a better way to do this without having to write a for loop? 😹 I will also have to do a whole testing thing on "coasting," ARGH... (in pirate sounds). I have a broken clip on my RJ45 network cable, that I spent three hours today trying to fix — an 'mcu' connection error I was getting (or whatever it's called) from the Sonic Pad web interface: I could not find any moonraker.conf file, but it was my printer, which was not turned on. 😂 _16_28_4x4.1mm.cup.3mf

JTLYK, I just added the Klipper Settings (by JJFX) and Moonraker Connection (by emtrax) plugins to Cura — on my journey up the learning curve! I'm still on the flat part. 😹

The yellow dot is a cross-section of an axis adjacent to the blue line along the edge of the square. If the yellow dot were cyan it would better match the blue line, which I presume you mean is a "Z seam," ie., the up and down corner of a square (an edge) is technically a seam: If the tip stops there, changes direction, etc., it's a seam. Is that what you mean? BTW, I have yet to open your file and check it out! Thank you! A casting idea (maybe you said coasting) is also very interesting, to have some sort of a hot 0.2 mm high aluminum mold (sheet) that the tip prints into. It could make atomic levels of precision on the corners, like invisible microchip level of precision (crazy). And, implementing a coating on the mold that allows the cold print material to detach, even depositing some atomic layers of itself onto the print (or vice versa, having an aluminum oxide layer come off), or whatever (is also crazy). 😹 I never thought .2mm of precision would not be enough, but the human eye can see this. Notwithstanding, in different contexts, precision looks different. An improvement on the corner of say, from a 0.2 mm radius to 0.1 would be really significant! Gosh, it could it actually be sharp, which I had never thought of before (I don't think it has to be that sharp). Below is an image of natural crystal for comparison. What do you think these corner radii are? TBH, I haven't really looked at it that closely yet. Pyrite Crystals on Marl 95 x 78 mm Navajún, La Rioja, Spain I still have a ton of work to do on this, it seams. [A back of the envelope calculation of 1355 pixels per 95 mm, to 14.2 pixels per millimeter, is 0.07 mm per pixel, eg., the corner.]

Okay, you guys: I am going to carefully re-read through your responses (again) and think (harrumph ... arrghhh) about them more over the weekend. You both have provided a lot for me to consider! More variables, thanks a lot. 😹 Currently, I am preparing 16 consecutive files to run. Each is about 5 minutes, so I will be positioning them onto different quadrants on the Cura build plate, and they will be loaded consecutively after each has completed. In other words, each will have different gcode settings — I imagine this will allowed, that Cura will place them onto the surface accordingly, and does not default each time to dead-on-center. This way, I will not have to wait an hour for the bed to cool in between each 5 minute test. Honestly, I can imagine going through a few rounds of these "sweet 16s" over the weekend. The Cura version I have is 5.7 (an AppImage on Ubuntu), so I will take a close look at your file. I already downloaded it, and I will run it over the weekend! Thank you, Slashee !! Below are some images of the test tower I printed. The yellow dot is an edit pencil I am using to highlight the outside corner "bulge," which is not yet zero. It's a ferocious battle! 😹 The markings on the ruler are 0.5 mm. The test tower is illuminated in blue LED to highlight the corner. I have configured the print using vibration compensation on Sonic Pad. The pressure advance ranged in the test tower from 0 - 0.2, I may have to take it higher. BTW, the PTFE tape is working perfectly on the tip. No leaks and it's been over twelve hours of printing. I didn't have to go crazy torquing the tip, normal torque was fine, and smooth. All I used were two turns of the tape (but I split the tape lengthwise to the correct width), of this stuff, "-450 to 550 Degree F Performance Temperature." It's not thin like the teflon tape used in residential plumbing applications. See link below. https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Density-Performance-Temperature-Stainless/dp/B001VY039C?th=1 And "Gizmo Dorks Polyester Film PET Tape [sheet]" for the bed is working great! Thank you again, so much, Jaysen and Slashee !!!

I watched two great videos on 'pressure advance' aka 'linear advance' after watching videos on setting up Sonic Pad. And it seems the corner will have a radius of some significant amount. This would be a tip diameter of 0.2 mm or less in a perfect world (I imagine), or if I added a little more speed relative to the extrusion rate and temperature maybe the longitudinal axis can be stretched out a bit — by fifty percent? OR, perhaps I can machine a square orifice "tip" as the final step in the extrusion, attach a plate to a 0.4 mm tip — in a more perfect world, and get 90° corners down to 0.001 mm radii (at like 350°C 450 mm/sec). I'm night-dreaming. 😹 I'm printing the Sonic Pad test tower stl now. The printing is very quiet but it takes at least ten hours to complete (if nothing goes wrong). I'm waiting and I will probably have to print 1 - 4 more over the next few days if I'm going to be doing any crazy stuff. Thanks for all your help on this. I think I'm on the right track, the 3D printing community is amazing!

I think I will try printing on the 200 mm square PET tape but maybe I should start at a cooler than the previously used temperatures and heat my way up only if there are adhesion issues. I do not expect any adhesion issues: According to videos I've seen, there are no insurmountable issues with ABS adhesion on PET tape under certain conditions, eg., fan blowing air over the print, etc. I plan to try the PETG on the PET tape, as well. The strings could be an advantage. It's been argued that adhesion is too great, consequently because maybe the compression or the temperature is too high on the first layer. But the print needs to come off very easily after cooling (or whenever) without damaging it. And it needs to remain as flat as possible, like a film. It could be described as a net. [There are a lot of variables there!] I am really excited about this project! I am hoping I can get close to these parameters, and I also expect to have more of my mind blown by the technology! 😄

I still have to check the Ender-5 firmware, install what is required (if anything), and set up and learn the Sonic Pad. That will be all day Saturday, probably. The attached 3MFs looks okay. For starter temperatures, I will set the nozzle and bed temperature settings to 230:100°C. I should probably try this print right away and check what's going on. The dimension are supposed to be about 40 X 1.5 mm. If I really want to go for it, I can test the file named "pair," with the 0.2mm gap. And I can double check the speed settings and set them slower than 4:20. CE5S1_28_cup.4x4.3mf CE5S1_28_4x4.pair.3mf

Okay, very funny. But I will be using my 0.2 mm nozzle. Super sharp outside corners are very important. I had no bed adhesion or nozzle problems with my 0.2 mm nozzle on the Ender-3 — printing on a glass plate with Magigoo (and it had no enclosure). I would pour the Magigoo straight out of the bottle, and use a soft tooth brush to spread it around. On the Ender-5, I just hadn't prepared the glass plate properly, I believe. Today, I just finished cleaning the glass bed for my next Ender-5 attempts: I coated the bottom with some thermal paste using a 1" metal spatula (< 40 grams), and let it sit a few minutes. It leveled itself. I placed the glass plate onto the printer bed, it slid around very nicely, and I subsequently clamped it down. Nothing oozed out the sides (yet, at 100 °C). I applied the teflon tape to the nozzle threads, a very tiny strip (a couple wraps at about 3 mm wide). The tape is resistant up to 260°C, it says. The nozzle screwed in nicely at 230°C but I haven't printed anything yet to see if it works. I hope it doesn't leak. I didn't torque it down to the umpteenth force, like I usually do, and it still leaks (occasionally). I will try using spray adhesive on the bed first, then move onto other adhesives. The Magigoo is a little sloppy, especially best to completely start from scratch after each application or two, three max. I will report back on the results after a few attempts, probably in a couple days. Thank you so much for your advice, I really appreciate it !!! I will definitely scale down the array to a 2 x 2. Maybe I'll set up different files and print four of them under different settings at different locations on the print bed. I really thought I could just repeat what I did from the Ender-3 days, but I guess not. I thought I would get lucky soon enough.

The PETG is very interesting. I like the UV resistance and that it can be printed semi-transparent, an important property. The temperature settings are lower, that's nice too. That it sticks to glass and breaks it off, yet nothing can be glued to it is hilarious! I watched this: The print I'm working on is less than 2 mm high or wide. It's like a flat net that must be lifted from the printer bed and then transferred onto another flat surface. What will be more demanding in the future I can imagine, will be to print adjacently with a 0.2 mm gap, or less, in between (see image below). It would be amazing if the two prints could be separated later by tearing them apart (without using too much force, that is, e.g, strings). Any idea if this is possible (see 3MF file), or a meaningful aspiration? LOL Thank you! CE5S1_28_array.pair.3mf

Thank you for your responses, Slashee. I had not read your latest before my response above, I was just adding some more info. You offer some golden nuggets of advice in there! And I will def look into using PETG! I should also mention that the 0.4 mm nozzle that comes with the Ender-5 S1 has a very long shaft, long enough for several threads. I can not yet find a similar (long) nozzle in 0.2 mm and it does have a tendency to leak. I am using way too much torque (at a high temperature) on the 0.2 mm tip. So I will use some teflon tape next time. Thermal resistance of PTFE ranges from 260 - 280 °C .

JTLYK, I purchased some 3DLAC and Warp-Pro spray adhesives, 200 grams of thermal paste that is good up to 280°C for the underside of the glass bed, bed clips, and a Sonic Pad with Klipper! All this stuff is scheduled to arrive on Friday! I received the top cover today, and it fits nicely.

Hi Slashee, Thank you! You are correct, according to the g-codes, I printed the ABS at 240/90 °C. I printed through a 0.2 mm nozzle using a Creality Ender-3 onto a glass bed with a lot of Magigoo adhesive, successfully. But my luck has since ended on the Ender-5 S1 (hopefully, temporarily). My first prints on the Ender-5, over the last 48 hours, were also on a glass bed with Magigoo. I just got the machine April 12. And I think you are correct, that I was using the wrong temperature settings. But I have since changed those and am running into other problems. I believe I failed to adhere the glass bed evenly to the Ender-5 bed surface. Perhaps the glass bed was subject to inconsistent heating and some movement, because leveling the bed was extremely troublesome and the printing results were equally bad. Photos of the Ender-3 results are those of the four ABS 3D prints (at the top), and the subsequent two images below. The image on the bottom is from the Ender-5. I need to work with ABS because I am subjecting the finished prints to temperatures of 60 - 65 °C (embedding the finished prints into hot wax). I use an ATM receipt for leveling and use an infrared digital thermometer to check the bed temperature. Frustrated, I removed the glass bed today, I may try to adhere it again, tonight or tomorrow, using something more substantial than adhesive spray — something that will both adhere and conduct the heat evenly. I expect to receive a PEI sheet on Friday and will try it then. If I try additional prints on the glass bed this week, I will upload photos and the 3MFs. These little squares are small, and thin (and separated from one another by only a couple millimeters. I would like them to pop off after cooling, which is why I use the glass bed, atm. I will try the PEI bed, but these thin ABS prints might just bend with the PEI, and not pop off like a solid object would. Thank you again, your comments are very helpful. I appreciate it!!

I've had some luck with tolerances, and was able to make some adequate prints. This doesn't mean I know what I'm doing. I realize there are some jerk and acceleration settings to make, but I'm not sure which quantitative amounts would be most helpful (see below). Does anyone know how to improve these mm-scale corners? It looks like the machine is going across the gap, leaving print matter behind, but also burning (or too much heat). IDK. There are different prints in these photos, but they all have the same problem with corners. How does one print corners best? My printer is not Linear Advance capable, atm. I am using a 0.2 mm tip on the Ender-5 S1, with 100 mm/s print acceleration, 10 mm/s jerk settings, 206 °C nozzle temperature (74 °C bed), ABS. I thought using a smaller tip would print sharper corners. Thank you! 28_129.cup.gcode 28_cup.stl