wombl1
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Posts posted by wombl1
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Hi cloakfiend,
Could you Tell me the temperature you use for your heated bed ?
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Hi Ataraxis,
Seems to be correct ..... Just had 5 Minutes left so it was more a quick glance to the important facts ...
One more hint .... During measuring oder the reference Voltage i found it easier to pick a Grund pin from the electronics Board .... In the lower left corner is a ground hole ....
You will See it when you try to measure it
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Hey Ataraxis,
Thanks for this .... I was thinking about this myself .... But my Garden fence is currently my project with the top Priority
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So .. my print failed ... but not due to the StepperDrivers .... My electronics cable was not fixed to the hot end .... so the Thermocouple cable got lifted .... wish Marlin was implemented with a PauseOnError Logic, and not with a StopOnError Logic
Here is the promised picture ... in the upper left corner is still the pololu driver for the Z-Stage, all other stepper drivers are SilentStepSticks .....
The CFG Resistor is on the bottom side of the drivers but you can see the cable connection and the jumpers
Enjoy
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Hi Zumfab,
Each stepper driver costs 10 € ....
The Most Important ones are x and y ....
I exchanged the extruder too, but this one is still quite loud during retraction....
So ... You reduce Noise a lot if you spend 20 € ....
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Maybe just a short update without pictures :
https://github.com/watterott/SilentStepStick
Here you can find the schematics with guide ... i think there is only one mode useful and this is a
16 usteps to 256 usteps Interpolation in the spreadcycle mode.
This can be reached through CFG2 open ( desolder the resistor ) and CFG1 set to GND ( Low ) ...
The original steppers are configured to ( High, High, High ) for all motors for 1/16 Steps except the Z-Stage, the Z-Stage is configured to ( High, High, Low ) for 1/8 usteps ......
That means if you remove the Jumper from MS1 .. MS1 and therefore CFG1 is set to low ....
Regarding the motor cable :
If you look at the cable you can see the following color ordering :
Blue, Red, Green, Black ....
You just have to change them to
Green, Black, Blue, red ...
And by the way ... i set the voltage reference to 1.25 Volt which should lead to about 0.88 A .... first i set it to 1.2 A ... but the steppers were running with about 70° C ... now they run with about 50° C .....
Currently i print a big, red elephant for my daughter ... it is running already 8 hours and if everything wents fine this will be a 30 h testprint .....
I think after that i will know if everything is stable
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And the best thing is, it is so easy ..... You just have to desolder the CFG2 resistor from the SilentSticks, Lift the Jumper from MS1 and replace the driver ....at least this Works for all Drivers except the z-Stage .... The Z-Stage uses 1/8 Steps ... this is not supported from the SilentStepSticks ..
The Last thing you have to do is to xxchange the Motor cables .... there are two twisted pairs ..... Upper and Lower ... Just remove the pairs from the connector and Exchange the pairs ...
Now everything should work ... Just more Silent
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Hi,
just finished the newest upgrade of my Ultimaker, changed from Pololu to Watterott SilentStepSticks ....
i think it is really worth it
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Hi Emilio,
just received my batch of a Colorfabb order a week ago.
The first i tried out was Chocolate Brown and it was not sticking like i was used with the
Ultimaker filament.
The current setup i am using for my Ultimaker 1 with heated bed :
- 215C for Extruder
- 70C for the Heated bed until a height of 1 mm
- then switch to 50C for the heated Bed
- and use the glue stick
Yesterday i printed a chair for my daughters doll house and i nearly couldn't remove it from the heated bed !!!!
So i am still searching for the perfect Tradeoff Stickiness vs Removability .... but currently
i am happy that it sticks
Maybe you could tell us which colour you have tried out ....
BTW .... is there any database/excel with approved parameters for certain filaments ?
I know they are not always the same, but it would be a good starting point ?
- 215C for Extruder
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Great !!! Thanks a lot for the fast answer
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Hi,
does anybody know where the outline feature disappeared ?
I could really use it, but i can not find it in the release ...
not even in the release notes .... nowhere ....
Maybe someone can help ...
Kind regards,
Robert
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Hi Thereza,
another indication for me that you are using Marlin is the giant Blob at the beginning ... With netfabb and marlin you have to use another
GCode header, you have to put 'M92 E14' at the beginning of your GCode ...
look here viewtopic.php?f=15&t=301 for more explanations
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Thanks for the info
Just greased my fan and finally it is quiet again .... just before i was thinking to build my own ventilation system
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Hi Thereza,
with the current version of Netfabb ( 4.8 ) it is not recommended to print with.
For that you will have to wait a bit for version 4.9 ( which will be out very soon ).
The current work flow, if you'd like to use Netfabb, should be to slice it with Netfabb and print it with
some other program ( ReplicatorG, Printrun etc. ).
Currently i am working with the Marlin Firmware from the BuildMeMarlin from Daid, just changed the Baudrate from 250000 Baud to 115200 Baud to be able to run with ReplicatorG without any change and it works really good
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Morning
If they are exactly half the height they should be, than you have to jumper the Pololu Driver.
In Front of the Pololudrivers are a few jumpers, if all jumpers are set ( Default ), the microstepping is 1/16, for the Z stage this should be 1/8.
Just have a look at the board with the pololu drivers, if all jumpers are set the same, you know you have to change it
At least this was the issue with my board, seems that a certain batch of Ultimakers was jumpered wrong.
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Great Daid
Works like a charm
Thanks for that
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Hi Tom,
sorry to hear that ... after removing the plug and following the instruction, i was able to print for 4 hours without any problem ...
I've read here in the forum that you could order the brass pipe from the makergear store
But to be honest, i am not sure if it is the same, but it could be cheaper to ask them for the dimensions and see if it fits
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Hi Tom,
as your problems mine weren't solved with the temperature .. i was also considering that the extruder couldn't pull the filament off the spool,
but in the end ... it wasn't a problem with the extruder, it was a problem with the hotend ... my bowden tube popped and i got a nice plug ...
Currently tried solution :
http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... 5bae50b9ec
... and the first thing i am going to print is owens clamp, hopefully it will work then
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Great,
Recently i swapped from red pla to Black bla and i ran into the same extruder Problem as you Tom.
I solved it at 230 Celsius as Dave recommended. Now everything was printed correctly and Even smoother
Than before, Thanks Dave
Greetings from Munich,
Robert
Colorfabb PLA, layers not sticking
in Coffee corner
Posted
Hi cloakfiend,
Thanks for this Short manual .... Realy appreciate that you spend so much Time ....
It made me rethink my glue Stick usage .... Currently i Think i use much more glue Stick them Needed