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c-ernst

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Posts posted by c-ernst

    Ultimaker is in a coma

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hey Bill... yeah Anita isn't with the company anymore... I found that out the hardway. :)

    Sounds like a COM port conflct to me....

    Kreativ is right....

    Pull the Arduino.

    Connect to USB (make sure you are not connecting to a USB hub but the port on the computer, sometimes HUBs are under powered)

    Use the Build me Marlin from Daid and use the executable tool. www.daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ to debug the connection issue... so you're not messing with the Arduino tools.

    Try each COM port individually. Starting with COM3, COM4, COM5.

    Sometimes windows will decide to allocate the Arduino a new COM port... for what reason I have no idea.

    Once you can connect re-attach the UM board and check to see if it is still connecting. (re-upload the firmware again... it's the easiest test)

    Proceed to a printrun test (simple, bullet proof software controller)

    Good luck man...

    Chuck

     

    ABS edges curling

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Had some of these same issues... depending on where you got the Kapton you might need to clean it really well with acetone. Mine (from Ultimachine) had coating or something on it. Was driving me nuts, could not get ABS to print worth a darn, and definitely could not get support to print at all (fell off the Kapton almost right away)

    I only print with the fan on for very small parts (under 20mm)

    Chuck

    Post your latest print!

    in What have you made

    Posted

    nice!...

    It never fails to amaze me the objects that this machine will print. Sometimes I look at a file and spend a while trying to figure out how to cut it up so it will print, then I say... what the heck send it over and see what happens.

    8 out of 10 times a file I think that there is no way will print will print.

    I have even managed to get 3 inch holes to bridge.

    Chuck

    Can't get my Ultimaker to work

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Check through the other posts on this and the google groups. Your problems are not uncommon. The only issues you are having that concern me are your temps.... which I suspect is a replicator g issue.

    Don't use replciator G like destroyer said. I assume you upgraded to the the Marlin firmware.. If not go here to build a custom marlin, Daid made an awesome tool to build you own custom marlin firmware and installer

    http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/

    Pull down SkeinPyPy beta 4 from Daid also.. this is the easiest way to get up and running.. the beta4 package has printrun built in and the Skenpypy slicer with all the settings set up for the Ultimaker

    https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki

    You need to fix the goo issue for sure. You will just have clogging issues in the future if you don't. Take the head apart, heat it up with a lighter or propane torch (be gentle with it you can melt the brass with a propane torch) and cook out the plastic. It will turn to powder and you can blow it out.

    Use permatex high temp engine thread sealer instead of the teflon. It's hard to get the teflon to seal if the brass has any flaws in it. You can get is at any automotive shop.

    http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... ealant.htm

    Best thing you can do is be patient. Initially the ultimaker can be a pain because there are so many variables from communications issues, extruder issues to mechanical issues. Baby steps! One issue at a time!

    Like destroyer said start at a higher temp, like 230-240. Some Ultimakers (like mine) actually were pretty off on temps. Mine was something like 20 degrees off. So I didn't get PLA to come out till almost 250.

    I am getting some prints now that are better than the ones I got from quickparts.com from $25k machines.

    The guys on this board (and google groups) check in almost daily so you will get answers here way faster than through emailing the ultimaker guys (they are up to their necks in orders)

    Chuck

    LCD with Snootlab Deuligne

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hey all... I thought I would throw this up here (already posted on the google group)

    I cannot get the Deulinge lcd panel to work, more like I cannot get the Marlin code to compile. I have the Deulinge libraries installed correctly because I can compile and send sample code files over, scrolling texts and flashing demos etc.

    I cannot however get the marlin code from here to compile. (in either Arduino 1.0, 22, and 23)

    Here is the marlin I am pulling (from the wiki)

    http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Deuligne_LCD_interface

    Error I am getting:

    In file included from cardreader.cpp:1:

    Marlin.h:48: error: variable or field 'manage_inactivity' declared void

    Marlin.h:48: error: 'byte' was not declared in this scope

    Marlin.h:112: error: variable or field 'kill' declared void

    Marlin.h:112: error: 'byte' was not declared in this scope

    In file included from /stepper.h:24,

    from cardreader.cpp:4:

    planner.h:63: error: conflicting declaration 'typedef struct block_t block_t'

    Marlin.h:42: error: 'block_t' has a previous declaration as 'typedef struct block_t block_t'

    planner.h:104: error: 'BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE' was not declared in this scope

    planner.h:109: error: expected constructor, destructor, or type conversion before 'void'

    correct belt dimension??? 300mxl or 240 mxl ?

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Interesting thing about the belts, the ones that came with my machine were marked 240mxl so I ordered 240mxl belts. WAY TOO SHORT, by like 2 inches. I don't know if there is such a thing as metric and imperial belts or what.

    I ended up ordering a set of 300mxl, 297mxl, and 295mxl from this company B7B manufacturing.

    300s were too long and the 295s were just a tad too short. Ended up with the 297s

    Got them from here:

    http://www.bbman.com/

    product page:

    http://catalog.bbman.com/db/service?dom ... 297MXL025G

     

    about to give up, prints keep failing

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Jimbo,

    If you want a perfectly generic, calibrated machine with absolutely no way to customize it you should look into the BFB Touch 3d printer. Oh... it cost 2x the Ultimaker.

    If you want a machine that prints 3x the speed at 4x res you will need to get your machine working.

    First, pics of what you are up against would be huge. What does the filament look like? Is it chewed up? Are you getting any extrusion? Are you getting leaks?

    What sounds are you encountering?

    I would skip Netfabb for starters, it is a great piece of software but not for beginners. Use Daid's SkeinPYPY.

    https://github.com/daid/SkeinPyPy/zipball/master

    Even a moron like me can use it.... this will solve most software issues.

    Second You need to solve one thing at a time. It can get overwhelming when you don't understand the functionality of the machine.

    1) temps (over crank the temps, start with 250 for PLA) later you can dial it in once things are working.

    2) leaks (once you have filament pushing at 250c and no leaks you are in good shape. if you have leaks check these forums for solutions. Leaks lead to jams usually)

    3) bed height and tape surface. Make sure you clean the tape surface with windex or alcohol. The painters tapes tend to have a wax coating. I couldn't get anything to stick to mine until it was cleaned.

    4) always use a raft for starters. Think of it as training wheels for printing. Printing on the print bed directly can be difficult until you have worked out the bed heights etc.

    Curious, you didn't get your Ultimaker off of ebay did you? Those machines are Chinese knock offs.

    Chuck

     

    I don't think anyone here has had as many issues as I had but my machine now is well worth the effort. Prints fast as all get out and at crazy resolution. A big part of that is the feedback from the people on this board.

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