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  1. Hey Bill... yeah Anita isn't with the company anymore... I found that out the hardway. Sounds like a COM port conflct to me.... Kreativ is right.... Pull the Arduino. Connect to USB (make sure you are not connecting to a USB hub but the port on the computer, sometimes HUBs are under powered) Use the Build me Marlin from Daid and use the executable tool. www.daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ to debug the connection issue... so you're not messing with the Arduino tools. Try each COM port individually. Starting with COM3, COM4, COM5. Sometimes windows will decide to allocate the Arduino a new COM port... for what reason I have no idea. Once you can connect re-attach the UM board and check to see if it is still connecting. (re-upload the firmware again... it's the easiest test) Proceed to a printrun test (simple, bullet proof software controller) Good luck man... Chuck
  2. Swing by a big box hardware store and ask if you can have one of their empty electrical spools... they throw them away. I save $6 from Ultimachine if I order without a spool... so far I am up $18. Chuck
  3. I use silicone oil also... the kind they use for RC cars.
  4. Had some of these same issues... depending on where you got the Kapton you might need to clean it really well with acetone. Mine (from Ultimachine) had coating or something on it. Was driving me nuts, could not get ABS to print worth a darn, and definitely could not get support to print at all (fell off the Kapton almost right away) I only print with the fan on for very small parts (under 20mm) Chuck
  5. It also happens from the belts riding up the pulleys and "snapping" back down into place. This is caused by the belts not being perfectly aligned with the carriage. Chuck
  6. Is the height correct? It looks like it's over extruding or the z is half what it should be. What slicer are you using? Have you had any other successful prints? Chuck
  7. nice!... It never fails to amaze me the objects that this machine will print. Sometimes I look at a file and spend a while trying to figure out how to cut it up so it will print, then I say... what the heck send it over and see what happens. 8 out of 10 times a file I think that there is no way will print will print. I have even managed to get 3 inch holes to bridge. Chuck
  8. also tighten up the aluminum long thumb screws while everything is hot. I found there was some expansion on long print jobs and I ended up with a gap between the bowen and the peek. Chuck
  9. Hey Tristan, The parts i just received a couple weeks ago will still work with this new design? I haven't had a chance to make my new extruders. If not will the old design still be avail for download? Chuck
  10. Speaking of Iron Man... just saw this today http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120422- ... -suit.html
  11. The helmet is PLA. I ran out so until I get my latest shipment it will have to remain 1/2 helmet. Chuck
  12. Wait... so they are printed one at a time on the platform but far enough apart where the head doesn't hit each other?
  13. Half of a Cybersubzero (Mortal Kombat) helmet... life size! this is the character in the game: http://www.giantbomb.com/sub-zero/94-2/ ... 1-1745837/ This was printed before I got my temps in order.. some warping and rough lines here and there but still didn't do a bad job. No fill, 7.75" tall per half. Each half took 5 hours at .2mm height. Basically the head will b printed in four pieces and puttied together. Chuck
  14. You might want to dial back the fan too. I had to run at crazy high temps until the fan was turned down. In some cases I run the fan at 25%. Chuck
  15. Check through the other posts on this and the google groups. Your problems are not uncommon. The only issues you are having that concern me are your temps.... which I suspect is a replicator g issue. Don't use replciator G like destroyer said. I assume you upgraded to the the Marlin firmware.. If not go here to build a custom marlin, Daid made an awesome tool to build you own custom marlin firmware and installer http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ Pull down SkeinPyPy beta 4 from Daid also.. this is the easiest way to get up and running.. the beta4 package has printrun built in and the Skenpypy slicer with all the settings set up for the Ultimaker https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki You need to fix the goo issue for sure. You will just have clogging issues in the future if you don't. Take the head apart, heat it up with a lighter or propane torch (be gentle with it you can melt the brass with a propane torch) and cook out the plastic. It will turn to powder and you can blow it out. Use permatex high temp engine thread sealer instead of the teflon. It's hard to get the teflon to seal if the brass has any flaws in it. You can get is at any automotive shop. http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... ealant.htm Best thing you can do is be patient. Initially the ultimaker can be a pain because there are so many variables from communications issues, extruder issues to mechanical issues. Baby steps! One issue at a time! Like destroyer said start at a higher temp, like 230-240. Some Ultimakers (like mine) actually were pretty off on temps. Mine was something like 20 degrees off. So I didn't get PLA to come out till almost 250. I am getting some prints now that are better than the ones I got from quickparts.com from $25k machines. The guys on this board (and google groups) check in almost daily so you will get answers here way faster than through emailing the ultimaker guys (they are up to their necks in orders) Chuck
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