dscheyh
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Posts posted by dscheyh
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Many thanks gr5 for your feedback. I have not updated the firmare of my UMO recently. Also I had not seen that issue in the past.
I have made some slicing tests with Cura 3.4.1. and compared with 3.3.1 when slicing for UMO (incl. heatbed) and for UM2+. Very interesting results which may show an issue in the slicer in Cura 3.4.1. Below you'll see the calculated slicing times which are odd for the UMO in v. 3.4.1 as they differ by almost 80-100% for an UMO vs. the time for an UMO2+:
Example STL 1:
Cura 3.4.1: on UMO: 3:18h on UM2+: 1:41h
Cura 3.3.1: on UMO: 1:59h on UM2+: 2:08h
Example STL 2:
Cura 3.4.1: on UMO: 5:08h on UM2+: 3:02h
Cura 3.3.1: on UMO: 2:58h on UM2+: 2:14h
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I experience a very strange behavior: prints are getting "strechted" in z-direction. It looks like the z-axis is moving downwards more than wished / defined. Printer is UMO+. I used Cura 3.4.1, layer height was set to 0.2 mm. Actually in the past few weeks I had often prints with not bonding layers. I assume this is related to the z-axis issue. I have never seen or experienced such an issue in now 6+ years experience with UMO printers. Any ideas what the root-cause could be and how to fix it would be very much appreciated. Or anyone else with the same problem?
In the image you see on the left the desired print result of a phone case from an UM2+, on the right the same print with same settings on the UMO+.
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Save dialogue in Cura 3.4.1 on Apple Mac OS X looks very strange
Since the last version the save dialogue box looks quite strange and has not the standard user design that I'd expect on the Mac. Why is this and will it be fixed / change to the standard design?
See screenshots of the save dialogue in Cura 3.4.1 and Excel attached as comparison.
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I couldn't find a setting in the new Cura 15.06.03 to add an Ultimaker Original with heatbed upgrade. Anybody knows if this machine is supported at all or which settings would be appropriate? Any suggestions much appreciated.
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One month ago I got the white Teflon coupler from Ultimaker (warranty). I have replaced it together with a new nozzle which I had in stock.
Actually the underextrusion issues have vanished since I replaced both parts. Since once month the UM2 is working smoothly. No similar issues occurred since then.
I will watch this carefully, as only replacing the nozzle did not help a few months ago. After a few weeks it got blocked again. Now with the new white thermocouple it seems to have gone...
Hi all
I have an UM1 since 2.5 years and since Feb. 2014 an UM2. With the UM1 I have no problems resp. could solve any feeding or extrusion issues on my own. I work with Cura 14.07.
On the UM2 I have underextrusion problems and nothing helped so far. I am desperated....
After 3 weeks in use with the same original PLA of Ultimaker suddenly the prints showed little holes in it, that look like underextrusion. I did heat up the nozzle to 260°C for 10 min, I disassembled the nozzle to cleat it... Nothing helped. Four weeks later I received a replacement nozzle from Ultimaker. The new one worked again only for about 3 weeks until the next underextrusion happened. I have tried also other tips like not to tight the 4 screws too much or feed the filament directly.
I have never used ABS.
Some test results with the testcylinder provided in the thread here. Used original Ultimaker PLA at 220°C. I printed one after the other and put them then next to each other for comparison:
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Hi all
I have an UM1 since 2.5 years and since Feb. 2014 an UM2. With the UM1 I have no problems resp. could solve any feeding or extrusion issues on my own. I work with Cura 14.07.
On the UM2 I have underextrusion problems and nothing helped so far. I am desperated....
After 3 weeks in use with the same original PLA of Ultimaker suddenly the prints showed little holes in it, that look like underextrusion. I did heat up the nozzle to 260°C for 10 min, I disassembled the nozzle to cleat it... Nothing helped. Four weeks later I received a replacement nozzle from Ultimaker. The new one worked again only for about 3 weeks until the next underextrusion happened. I have tried also other tips like not to tight the 4 screws too much or feed the filament directly.
I have never used ABS.
Some test results with the testcylinder provided in the thread here. Used original Ultimaker PLA at 220°C. I printed one after the other and put them then next to each other for comparison:
frontside:
backside:
from left to right:
1. v01: standard setting, filament feeded indirectly via the Ultimaker guide roller left of the spool.
2. v02: loosened the 4 long screws on the hotend a little bit. PLA feeded directly.
3. v03: like v02 but PLA feeded indirectly via the guide roller left of the spool.
Next test:
215°C, 110% flow for the first 0.5mm
After 0.5 cm decreased speed to 70%
After 1 cm (after 3mm3/s increased flow to 120%) -> looks very good
Next test with other object and now 120% flow rate. Again holes in the print. Oh no...
What do you think? Any ideas, other suggestions? Could the flow be the only problem and solve the issue? Any feedback highly appreciated.
...Do not overtighten the 4 screws on the print head
In my opinion the filament guide on the back can cause a lot of friction, bended filament which also causes underextrusion, try to install the filament guide near to the feeder material in such a way that helps straighten the filament entrance to the material feeder.
Ian's material feeder is also a good extra since it has also a filament guide
If you are going to install the teflon coupler don't forget to check the inside of the nozzle and maybe you could clean it with acetone
hey if you have trouble to understand anything, just tell me and I will translate and send you a pm. As I told you in the pm I think it should be better give you the answer in english because it can help others in the future.
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Hi Daid
Many thanks for the explanation. This solved my problem. I have just set the "initial layer thickness" to 0 (i.e. the initial layer will print the same height as the set layer thickness).
I had the same problem and was wondering why the skirt showed up with specific layer heights and with others not.
Thanks and regards,
Jochen
Using a initial layer thickness of half or less then the layer height will cause the first layer to lay outside of the model and not generate GCode for that layer. Which also causes the skirt to go missing.
See: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/69
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I experienced that in 14.03 not always support structures are created, regardless which setting of support is chosen.
Attached link to an example of a simple figurine created in Tinkercad where the "arms" are not touching the build-plate. No support structure is created which results in an unprintable part... Actually I don't know if this worked in a prev. version.
https://tinkercad.com/things/fbgqNdOuRd6-lauras-figurine
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With the recent firmware update in Cura 14.03 for the Ultimaker 2 the pause function has been added. I tried it and it works great. The printed moves to the zero position (left front corner) when paused. After resuming it moves exactly to the position where it has stopped and continues printing. Really great stuff!
I tried today to pause a print on the Ultimaker 1. But compared to the UM2 pause, at the UM1 the printhead stays at the position where it just is and stops printing when paused. Impact: the hot nozzle melts the printed object below slowly away and hot filament comes out of the nozzle. Result: a big filament bobble around the nozzle and melted object at this point. Aarrghh.... :sad:
It would be great to have the same implementation of the pause function for the Ultimaker 1 as it is for the Ultimaker 2.
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None of the Cura's with Ultimaker 2 support allowed you to set the temperature for those machines. The temperature is set directly in the printer, not via the gcode.
Thanks @illuminarti. Too funny, didn't realize that in the previous version... All right, "issue" solved :cool:
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Just tried the new version of Cura 14.03 on a Mac. I realized that the field for setting the temperature has gone if you have an Ultimaker 2. If you select the Ultimaker 1 the temperature field is still there. Is this a bug or why has it been removed?
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Many thanks for your answer.
Question regarding the Marlin bulider. I don't exactly understand the difference between the Ulticontroller and the Ultipanel. I have the Ulticontroller from Ultimaker. Which setting do I need?
Thanks in advance.
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Firstly I'd like to thank the Ultimaker team for the Ulticontroller which is a great improvement of the whole process and of controlling the print.
Sometimes when I insert the SD card (which was delivered with the controller) the Ulticontroller seems to hang, nothing is displayed. Only by switching the Ultimaker off and on again the display will show up again. Maybe it is required to insert the SD card when the printer is switched off.
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3.5mm as inner diameter is astonishingly wide. Officially, Ultimaker gives the dimension of 1/8 inch (= 3.175 mm).
Good to know that 3.5mm also works.
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Thank you very much for this simple solution.
I had lost the blue horseshoe clip. In lieu of the horse shoe clip I used also a zip-tie with 3mm height. By tightening with a clamp, it fit perfectly under the white fitting.
UMO+ stange stretched prints in z-direction / z-axis issue / layers larger than set?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
-- Issue solved ---
I found the root-cause in the z-steps/mm settings on my Ultimaker Original with original heatbed (use the Ulticontroller Control > Motion)
- old: +0200.0
- new: +400.1
I have saved the settings then via Control > Save or store memory.
Source / similar issue: