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  1. Hi guys, How do I replace the version of Slic3r that replicator is using? I'd like to upgrade it, but I'm not sure how to do that. (New at this) I'm on OS X too, not sure if that matters. Thanks! Holt
  2. Hey guys, So, I tightened the living hell out of my short belts, that finally got rid of the weird circle issues. I feel like I'm really close to calibrated, but I keep having an issue. I have a foot and leg of an animated character I'm working on. Thin, boney leg. It's attached to the foot. It goes fine for the entirely of the foot and the bottom part of the ankle... but as it gets further up the head I guess is moving in such small circles it's just kind of melting the leg and causing messy layers, etc... eventually is just is kind of stirring around in liquid and I have to kill the print. I tried lowering the temp once it gets to the leg, but it doesn't seem to do any good. By the time I get to a point that it isn't melting, well, it isn't extruding either. Any advice on tall thin object settings or is it just kind of not doable? I'd say the legs are about an 3-3.5mm thick... Thanks for any help or advice! Cheers, Holto
  3. Hi Daid, Thanks for the info. I tried downloading Cura (I'm on OSX) and I didn't know what I needed to do to get the GUI. I tried loading the files in Python, but nothing happens there. Sorry, I'm not much of a programmer beyond web bits. Can you give me a clue to running it? I'd love to try it out. Thanks in advance. - david
  4. Hey guys, So, I got to digging around last night and took the bottom panel off (I bought the Ultimaker fully assembled) After some mucking about on Google I found a very small reference to how the jumpers should be set on the axis connections. It appears that the z Axis was closed. Put it to open and it's already performing MUCH better. I still have calibration to do, but it's about a million time less worrisome that last night. Hahaha. I also went back and attempted to realign all the axis rods, etc. Seems to have taken some of the warping perimeters out as well. Feeling much better now. AHahaha. My first instinct is to print a whole bunch of spare parts in case something were to break. I do think I mat need to grease everything really well. For some reason I can only get Slic3r to work right... When I go SF I get a weird thign where it spits out a bunch of plastic in the printing spot and then starts printing with not filament being extruded. Really weird. Two things I would love to know... How/where do I adjust the "wait" time to let a lyer cool between prints rounds and how can I generate supports with the PLA? Do those break off fairly easy? Thanks for all the help. This forum has already been an invaluable place for knowledge. I ordered NetFabb last night but still haven't gotten a download link from Ultimaker. I'll excited to see if that makes a big difference. Cheers, Holto
  5. So, newb here again. I keep printing simple shapes and the calibration tube and after about 4-5mm the heads starts to get deeper and deeper into the part... of course that winds up pushing plastic around and by the end of a build the extruder is about 2-3mm into the part basically just cutting a route around the part... I'm going to take a photo and post here in a sec. It gets worse as the part gets taller, I should mention. Thanks for any help. I'm pretty ignorant with most of this still.
  6. Thanks for the help everyone. I have one that is working now at the stock wattage, but I do believe I'll wind up getting a larger one and doing a heated bed at some point. Thanks a ton for all the help.
  7. Thanks for the info and the offer! I would be interested in the heated build plate if I could do ABS with it. Thanks for the offer though. I ordered a Toshiba 120 watt on amazon with overnight for like 15 bucks. I'm also still thinking I may hack that extra 360 one for a higher power set up. Do I need more than the 120watt if I'm going to hook up the LED strip that cam with it? Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the information. - Holt
  8. So it CAN be higher wattage? Thanks so much for the answer by the way. I have a 90 watt that I could run it on to just align the head and all that jazz. I also have a 175 watt xBox AC adapter I thought about modding to go with it. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help. Great forum. I'm sure I'll be driving you guys crazy the next few days. Hahaha. Cheers, Holt
  9. Hey guys, I'm new to Ultimakers and new to the forum. Thanks for any help you can give. I bought an assembled Ultimaker second hand online and it came with no power supply or brick. Can someone tell me what I need to look for to replace this? I have no idea of wattage, etc. Is there a brand of laptop PS that works? Thanks for any help. - Holt PS. I have the 1.5.3 electronics.
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