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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Yes, I did the ABS trick to seal it, but at 220° the ABS starts to melt. Unfortunately, the extrusion stopped again, even if I use 220°. What confuses me, as soon I cancel the print, filament suddenly comes out of the nozzle, while during running the print, even pushing by hand doesn’t help. Not sure if it’s a coincidence, but it seems that it stops while printing solid layers for a while (when parts of the 3D model merging, the slicing for this layers becomes solid). Strange, as far as I understand, there is no filament blocking mechanism in the printing head itself. How can it be that at ce
  2. Thanks very much for your suggestions! Daid, the support didn’t blame Cura for bad prints directly. I once told them that I use Cura and in a replay they said that it seems to be a software issue. Probably they didn’t had in mind anymore what software I’m using. To me, Cura seems to be a very good software. Printing with higher temperature solved the extrusion problem (thanks!). I lowered the temperature to stop PLA leaking from the nozzle (used ABS before filled the gaps). Adjusting the right height for the first layer is very difficult. I also seems that sometimes the amount of filament
  3. Hello, after solving some problems with the very helpful suggestions from forum members, I’ve managed to print some objects in a small scale. attached a photo of the evolution steps (from right to left). However, there are still lots of problems coming up with larger objects. There are lots of blobs on the top surface of the layers (photo), so the layer becomes very bumpy. The Ultimaker support says this problem is related to the Cura software. I’m using standard settings, temp is 190°. Did anyone had the same problems? Another issue is that after printing for a while, the extruding sudd
  4. That’s good news! So nothing has to be disassembled, right? Just tightening the things as you described. Did you heat up the nozzle before? Should it left hot during the whole operation? (somehow one have to get rid of the leaked material to close all gaps). Thanks!
  5. My Teflon tape didn’t stick to the screw when I assembled it. Now there is a lot of PLA leaking from below the aluminium block. I’m wondering what’s the best way to fix it. destroyer2012 mentioned that ABS can fill the gaps. Does this work even without any tape? Or in case of using permatex (c ernst, thedudevt), do I have to disassemble the whole printing head? Or which parts are affected? It seems that most of the parts of the head are somehow interconnects. Thanks for any help
  6. Techicality, 'endstops only for homing' checked solved the offset problem. Thanks so much for your help. It seems with the new firmware, the initial distance between the nozzle and the platform is a bit too high, so the first layer doesn’t stick on the ground (already adjusted the Z-stopper very tight). However, it’s another topic that might be discussed already somewhere in the forum, so I’ll search first. Feel like I’m a big step closer to my first Ultimaker print. Thanks a lot!
  7. Thanks so much for your suggestions. Technicality, you are right: The XY movement of the printing-head is not very loose. I tried hard to make it softer, without much success. I tighten the printing belts again and turned the stepper-driver potmeter a quarter clockwise (couldn’t figure what indicates 1,1A). But still have the same offset. If I move the head in 3 axis by software manually, all of them are working fine. if it’s a hardware problem, shouldn’t the printed square itself be distorted (rectangle) too? It seems that the offset only happened between printing one layer and the next.
  8. Hello, I’m doing my first steps with the Ulimaker and got some strange results (photo attached). The 3d model is a simple 4 side cubic wall. It seems that each layers is printed with an huge offset to the right side. It also looks like there was no Z-movement, as the printhead did not change the height (maybe is isto less to recognize). I was trying to open “printrun” to see if there are some possible calibration, but it does not connect to the printer (only Cura connects well). Thanks for any help!
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