Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

chrili_rakete

Dormant
  • Content Count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Hello Agis, I just noticed your post right now – so sorry for the delay. No, I have not solved it, as during searching for a reliable distributor I also began to think (again) about alternatives to the UM2. Especially I am (also) interested in the LulzBot TAZ 5, but have not found a decision by now. So while I am waiting, maybe the UM3 oder the TAZ 6 will be released ...
  2. No, I tried http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted instead, as it was an UM2 and Ultimaker recommends these routines. But the point is: I want to print and not play with my printer – that's why I decided to buy the UM2, the assembled ready-to-print unit. I owned the UMO since 2012/06, assembled the kit, upgraded, tinkered, researched and posted in forums, and: sometimes printed models with it. I wanted to spin this ratio and was accepting to pay for it. But I can't see a reason, why I should disassemble a factory-new UM2 after unboxing it, bef
  3. Hi @xxxprod! I ordered my UM2 at the begin of September and it was delivered just a few days later. Yes, this part of the deal was perfect. Unfortunately my brand new printer was not able to print larger (< 3 hours) models due to the "shifted-layers-problem", so I I had to contact their support. This was so remarkably unsatisfactory that I maybe will report my experiences to the community within the next days in detail. The short version: they were not able or willing to repair or exchange my new UM2 – after two weeks they told me "... wir davon ausgehen, dass auch ein neues Gerät nicht ih
  4. Of course I knew this link – but thank you anyway. It results in one match – and there is absolutely no way for me to place an order (again) with this company. That's why I was asking for possible alternatives ...
  5. Hello! Of course the question above has to be precised: is there – apart from the one distributor suggested on the UM-Website – a reliable company where I can 1 – buy a new Ultimaker 2 in Austria and, even more important, 2 – that will properly fulfill any warranty claims, should they arise? Thanks in advance! -- Christoph
  6. Hi! I am interested in 3D-prints, but not in 3D-printing – that's why I bought and assembled an Ultimaker Original in 2012/06, and now I bought an Ultimaker 2. I had to invest much time and work (also money) into my first Ultimaker but have to admit, that I could not always achieve the hoped-for results. I think the reason is just, that the concept of the Ultimaker Original and my technical skills & will do not fit perfectly. So I want to offer my assembled, working Ultimaker Original (Ulticontroller, V2 hotend upgrade), which is in very good condition – altogether I printed less than a
  7. So apart from the tube slipping out, a breaking of the PEEK insulator and completely messing the nozzle: what is your expected worst case scenario of problems? Thanks for the picture, but I see that this might be a slight different situation concerning heat and forces on your (broken) PTFE part, as it is directly contacting the heater with its full surface. These pictures illustrate the situation here, and maybe you can understand why I do expect significant cooldown-effects in the threaded contact area between copper and PFA, due to the functionality of the remaining part of the PEEK insulat
  8. Dear Joergen, thanks for your reply, I can understand your concerns. Weakening the structure of the PFA tube by the heat inducted directly by a part of the copper tube is an issue that has to be considered. As you have already mentioned, the maximum working temperature of PFA is about 250-260° C (the melting point is about 305°) - that is below the maximum extruding temperatures I use. Apart from that I suspect the temperatures at the connected upper part of the copper tube to be always lower than in the nozzle area. Due to the direct connection of the copper and the PFA tube (what I see "per
  9. Dear all, may I suggest another fix for the annoying hot-end-issues with the bowden tube. I think my proposal is a very simple solution that can be realized within 10 minutes - no printed parts are necessary. Although I have no long time experience I expect the tube to be connected reliable in that way. The idea of tapping a thread into the tube is based on a discussion here: https://groups.google.com/d/topic/ultimaker/zcFB28_FCa0/discussion - thanks to everyone who contributed! You will need no extra parts, but the following tools: - M5 and M6 taps - an 8mm drill or a M8 tap - a plier T
  10. Hallo Bernhard, ich habe gerade gesehen, dass das nächste Treffen am nächsten Dienstag, 03.07.2012 um 18:30 Uhr stattfinden soll. Ich (Wien 8) habe meinen Ultimaker vor zwei Wochen angeschafft und zusammengebaut, meine Freude ist aber noch überschaubar, denn ich habe das klassische "Extruder-hot-end" Problem und schon sehr, sehr viele Stunden in die unterschiedlichsten Workarounds investiert - leider noch gar nicht erfolgreich. Meinst Du, ich kann bei diesem Treffen Hilfe bekommen oder ist das eher nicht der Rahmen dafür? Danke + beste Grüsse! -- Christoph
  11. Thanks for your answers first of all. It soon was evident that my problems are due to the "ordinary" hot-end-extruder issues. So I spent hours and hours to check all of the tips and workarounds found on this place - without success, so I am a bit disappointed at the moment. After the second or third cycle of dissassembling/assembling the hot-end, you begin to understand what it all is about - to my opinion it is an obvious design issue of the ultimaker. Of course I will continue my attempts, but otherwise I don't want to accept that the only way to fix it is to put some toothpicks inside and t
  12. Hello all, I am a Newbie having a similar issue here with my first - also second, third, :( ... - print on my Ultimaker: It seems that I am having a steady flow during the first layers, but at a certain stage my print becomes absolutely sparsed until I have to stop it. I use the Netfabb Standard profiles for the generation of my GCode together with the Standard PLA parameters. I have also tried to increase temperature and reduce speed, I have fixed extruder issues - same bad results. My prints look like the one on this photo: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B0DE0h ... mJaTkpsTGs I am no
×
×
  • Create New...