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snowygrouch

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Posts posted by snowygrouch

    Throw away your short belts - direct drive.

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    The flexible coupling is alot more than just fixing two parts together, just look at your Z stage

    screw (which has a fixed coupler). They generally wobble around like crazy. Without precision machined

    parts you should never direct couple motors and shafts solid (of course since its a bad idea, lots of

    people do it anyway....but its a great way to put stress into the motor bearings and induce

    non-linearity (because the motor will be trying to wobble about like mad).

    The basic consideration here is:

    1) Get rid of the short belts for total cost of about €20

    2) Get rid of the short belts for a total cost of about € MORE (order pancake steppers with integrated

    8mm shafts from the factory).

    I chose #1....

    You can do anything you want but to improve on it - will cost more.

    Zapp Automation in the UK can do some custom stepper stuff, they might do you a stepper

    with a shaft going right through. Since the shaft goes through the motor main bearings

    its already reasonably centered. That would eliminate the coupler, but I would expect noise to

    increase very noticably. (this is a Haydon Clerk pancake stepper)

    Haydon80000Pancakehires.jpg

    You can then put dampers on the back of the steppers....but they`re about €50 each

    http://www.phytron.eu/antrieb/index.php?Set_ID=165&part_ID=13

    d37_210.jpg

     

    Throw away your short belts - direct drive.

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    AVI,

    It helps when you have a problem like that to post photographs - otherwise nobody can really tell what the problem is.

    However I have never heard of anyone melting the motor mounts, and I have never even once re-tightened

    mine since I put them on the machine.

    So I think you have another problem here. Either you used a very low temperature variation of PLA (like PLA45

    from Orbitech which gets soft enough to bend in hot tap water) or you have not printed them

    with thick walls, or your steppers are overheating - possibly because of very high friction from misaligned

    rods or using grease on the XY rods. Or maybe a combination of all these factors.

    Without pics its nearly impossible to help.

     

    Alternative (not 18v) electronics boards

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi,

    Just wondered if anyone is/wants to use new electronics boards for the

    Ultimaker.

    I just ordered two 18v heater cartridges from Ultimaker, and it cost me over 90 EUROS !!!

    (a "normal" 12volt one costs about 10x less than that :angry: )

     

    http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/12v-40w-ceramic-heater-cartridge-for-hot-ends.html

    I just realised that I had spent over half the cost of a brand new RAMBO board just on two tiny spare parts for the current electronics. To which I am now locked in

    due to the 18v system.... :roll:

    So for sure these will be the very last monies Im going to spend out on parts for the 18v system.

    So the question is....is there a board with sensible 12 or 24volt system that we can just upload MARLIN to and get on with it ? I am not talking about upgrading the CPU power, just getting something that I can directly upload my MARLIN firmware to and buy heater cartridges for 5 euros each...and not 45..... :blink:

    For example anyone got/have thoughts on these:

    http://www.reprapsource.com/en/show/6765

     

    http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA

    Regards

    C.

     

     

    Dual Extrusion with Kisslicer is working

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    OK I understand now,

    You need to install this with the official Arduino software.

    http://arduino.cc/en/main/software

    Download Arduino IDE 1.0.5

    You should learn how to install firmware this way, as you will also be able to edit the

    firmware in Arduino IDE (if you ever need to in future).

    To compile it is explained here:

    http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/ultimaker-3d-printer/adding-dual-extrusion-to-ultimaker/

    http://www.calumdouglas.ch/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ARDUINO_COMPILE.png

    Once compiled you just click on FILE>UPLOAD and thats it. To do the whole process is only

    3 mouseclicks. Once to load the firmware into Arduino IDE, once to compile it, and once to upload it.

    Let me know if you need further help. (in my website, its explaining how to edit your

    own firmware so it works in dual extrusion, you do NOT need to do that part with the

    files I provided here - that bit is done already)

    Regards

    C.

     

    Post your latest print!

    in What have you made

    Posted

    Sorry but the car was drawn by hand by friends grandfather, so the resulting electronic IP is not mine to share - and I dont think my friend would like that. Its a very personal thing that was made by me - just for him.

    But I am glad you like the photos at least...

     

    Dual Extrusion with Kisslicer is working

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/ultimaker-3d-printer/adding-dual-extrusion-to-ultimaker/

    At the top of the page you can download a ZIP archive with all the stuff

    needed to make this work. I cannot post any pics because my main heater

    cartridge just failed so currently out of action.

    ZIP Contains:

    Kisslicer exe (for windows x64)

    Firmware modded for dual ext.

    Kisslicer setup files modded for dual ext.

    Sample test STL part and pics of how it should look

    Let me know how you get on, but it all works for me. However I only

    use it for printing support in 2nd material. Have never tried it as a

    "dual material" print....

     

    Random heater failure - dual extrusion

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Yep I just swapped the heater connections on the main board, and the controller quite

    happily heats up the #2 heater cartridge - so the board is ok.

    The TC`s on both hotends are also fine.

    I dont know much about typical failure modes of heater cartridges, if this can be caused by

    the board giving voltage spikes or switching on/off too frequently or suchlike.

    But looks like just a failed heater cartridge. Just strange to me that it "kind of" worked for

    a fair while then just stopped. When it did work it was totally ok...then just BAM...off.

    I suppose I will have to order a new one at some unbelievable price :shock: and try it again....

    I did have to jiggle the wiring around alot when I installed the 2nd hotend. Perhaps it was

    all too much for the heater cartridge wiring...

    C.

    EDIT:

    Yep thought so....32 Euros PLUS tax....for a 40w 18V heater unit....similar

    parts typically being sold everywhere else for about 400% less than that.

    HELLO UMAKER !!!! NO FRIENDS ARE MADE BY SHAMELESS MARKUPS

    Anyone sucessfully using an alternative for these ?

     

    Random heater failure - dual extrusion

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I have problems with dual extrusion prints failing. The main extruder motor

    just stops getting signal from the board at random points in the Z level. (I mean it is not trying to turn, this is not a plugging issue).

    Wherafter it will not start again in the same print.

    This is traced to the same hotend just randomly cooling down. So the Ulticontroller shows that it knows that T0 is supposed to be 210 deg...but it shows the temp cooling

    down to ambient anyway. So at this point I guess the firmware safety

    stops the extruder going because it knows it cannot print.

    So the unticontroller screen will read something good at the start for T0 and T1 temps like

    209/210 208/210

    Then at a random point (same gcode !) in Z level (like 4mm or 7.5mm up etc)

    It will just go to something like:

    190/210 208/210

    170/210 208/210

    150/210 208/210

    ..... 208/210

    50/210 208/210

    etc

    Weird...as it clearly knows its supposed to be heating both of them...but doesnt or cannot sucessfully heat T0....I check the very basic stuff like all wires screwed

    in and so on, but dont want to do a full electronics stripdown without feedback.

    Ideas ?

    C.

     

    Printing with PVA

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    Retracting the PVA back during "non support printing" wont work because you will always have a little

    skin of PVA inside the nozzle, and on the end of the tip. Which will then carbonize and still clog the nozzle.

    What you need is the wipe tower feature to be copied from Kisslicer, this will ensure that the PVA

    is kept moving throughout the whole print cycle.

    Kisslicer also has a feature called "interface", which can select a 2nd nozzle to print only the couple

    of layers between support and main part.

    However I have doubts that dual printing will ever work really well without machines with the extruder

    motors on the printhead....but I really hope someone proves me totally wrong on that one.

     

    Throw away your short belts - direct drive.

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    8nominal to g6 is -5/-14 micron

    8nominal to h6 is 0/-9 micron

     

    I think "Asian equivalent", is the internet sales code for "not the same but if you pay we dont care".

    g6 would probably work "ok", it might just be fractionally sloppier than you would like. Its hard to say

    exactly because I dont have tolerance data for the ultimaker sleeves.

    Here is all the info you might need on that stuff...

    http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/press/us_12e_pr1263.pdf

    http://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/press/us_12e_pr1261.pdf

     

    settings for kisslicer

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    well for me its the only way I can get dual extrusion for support material to work is using KSlicer

    Second is that I have some really big complex CAD models, that just makes CURA crash.

    However I could make a "re comparison" again with the latest CURA version to see how it is.

     

    Throw away your short belts - direct drive.

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Those also look fine, h6 is as you correctly state 0/-0.009

     

    I didnt see the price of those....thats absurd. I guess because they are SKF shafts, so are probably

    about the best quality you can buy. But still....really exessive !

    To cut them down will be a real pain at that level of hardness, a steel file is 60 to 65 HRc

    and a typical cheap hacksaw blade is below even that.

    However you can get really good hacksaw blades that are up to 68HRc.

    Even cheap blades will probably "work", but you might just end up going through about 3 blades

    to make 2 cuts. If you have a vice to hold the shafts in (with tape around the shafts) it should

    present no problem. Just make sure you do a really nice job rounding off the ends or you will never

    get them through the bearings in the UMaker case.

     

     

     

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