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snowygrouch

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  1. The flexible coupling is alot more than just fixing two parts together, just look at your Z stage screw (which has a fixed coupler). They generally wobble around like crazy. Without precision machined parts you should never direct couple motors and shafts solid (of course since its a bad idea, lots of people do it anyway....but its a great way to put stress into the motor bearings and induce non-linearity (because the motor will be trying to wobble about like mad). The basic consideration here is: 1) Get rid of the short belts for total cost of about €20 2) Get rid of the short belts for a total cost of about € MORE (order pancake steppers with integrated 8mm shafts from the factory). I chose #1.... You can do anything you want but to improve on it - will cost more. Zapp Automation in the UK can do some custom stepper stuff, they might do you a stepper with a shaft going right through. Since the shaft goes through the motor main bearings its already reasonably centered. That would eliminate the coupler, but I would expect noise to increase very noticably. (this is a Haydon Clerk pancake stepper) You can then put dampers on the back of the steppers....but they`re about €50 each http://www.phytron.eu/antrieb/index.php?Set_ID=165&part_ID=13
  2. AVI, It helps when you have a problem like that to post photographs - otherwise nobody can really tell what the problem is. However I have never heard of anyone melting the motor mounts, and I have never even once re-tightened mine since I put them on the machine. So I think you have another problem here. Either you used a very low temperature variation of PLA (like PLA45 from Orbitech which gets soft enough to bend in hot tap water) or you have not printed them with thick walls, or your steppers are overheating - possibly because of very high friction from misaligned rods or using grease on the XY rods. Or maybe a combination of all these factors. Without pics its nearly impossible to help.
  3. Interesting, any chance of an RS part # for that ??....
  4. Hi, Just wondered if anyone is/wants to use new electronics boards for the Ultimaker. I just ordered two 18v heater cartridges from Ultimaker, and it cost me over 90 EUROS !!! (a "normal" 12volt one costs about 10x less than that :angry: ) http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/12v-40w-ceramic-heater-cartridge-for-hot-ends.html I just realised that I had spent over half the cost of a brand new RAMBO board just on two tiny spare parts for the current electronics. To which I am now locked in due to the 18v system.... :roll: So for sure these will be the very last monies Im going to spend out on parts for the 18v system. So the question is....is there a board with sensible 12 or 24volt system that we can just upload MARLIN to and get on with it ? I am not talking about upgrading the CPU power, just getting something that I can directly upload my MARLIN firmware to and buy heater cartridges for 5 euros each...and not 45..... :blink: For example anyone got/have thoughts on these: http://www.reprapsource.com/en/show/6765 http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA Regards C.
  5. OK I understand now, You need to install this with the official Arduino software. http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Download Arduino IDE 1.0.5 You should learn how to install firmware this way, as you will also be able to edit the firmware in Arduino IDE (if you ever need to in future). To compile it is explained here: http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/ultimaker-3d-printer/adding-dual-extrusion-to-ultimaker/ http://www.calumdouglas.ch/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/ARDUINO_COMPILE.png Once compiled you just click on FILE>UPLOAD and thats it. To do the whole process is only 3 mouseclicks. Once to load the firmware into Arduino IDE, once to compile it, and once to upload it. Let me know if you need further help. (in my website, its explaining how to edit your own firmware so it works in dual extrusion, you do NOT need to do that part with the files I provided here - that bit is done already) Regards C.
  6. All data is provided for you in the very first post of this thread :huh:
  7. snowygrouch

    Post your latest print!

    Sorry but the car was drawn by hand by friends grandfather, so the resulting electronic IP is not mine to share - and I dont think my friend would like that. Its a very personal thing that was made by me - just for him. But I am glad you like the photos at least...
  8. snowygrouch

    Post your latest print!

    Reconstructing a racing car from blueprints, CAD model and 3D Printing UMaker. Was a wedding gift for my friend whos grandfather had done the original drawings (and raced the car) in Mexico in the `50s. He liked it ! Here is a weblink. Faster and easier in this new forum.... http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/3d-print-projects/
  9. http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/ultimaker-3d-printer/adding-dual-extrusion-to-ultimaker/ At the top of the page you can download a ZIP archive with all the stuff needed to make this work. I cannot post any pics because my main heater cartridge just failed so currently out of action. ZIP Contains: Kisslicer exe (for windows x64) Firmware modded for dual ext. Kisslicer setup files modded for dual ext. Sample test STL part and pics of how it should look Let me know how you get on, but it all works for me. However I only use it for printing support in 2nd material. Have never tried it as a "dual material" print....
  10. snowygrouch

    Random heater failure - dual extrusion

    Yep I just swapped the heater connections on the main board, and the controller quite happily heats up the #2 heater cartridge - so the board is ok. The TC`s on both hotends are also fine. I dont know much about typical failure modes of heater cartridges, if this can be caused by the board giving voltage spikes or switching on/off too frequently or suchlike. But looks like just a failed heater cartridge. Just strange to me that it "kind of" worked for a fair while then just stopped. When it did work it was totally ok...then just BAM...off. I suppose I will have to order a new one at some unbelievable price :shock: and try it again.... I did have to jiggle the wiring around alot when I installed the 2nd hotend. Perhaps it was all too much for the heater cartridge wiring... C. EDIT: Yep thought so....32 Euros PLUS tax....for a 40w 18V heater unit....similar parts typically being sold everywhere else for about 400% less than that. HELLO UMAKER !!!! NO FRIENDS ARE MADE BY SHAMELESS MARKUPS Anyone sucessfully using an alternative for these ?
  11. I have problems with dual extrusion prints failing. The main extruder motor just stops getting signal from the board at random points in the Z level. (I mean it is not trying to turn, this is not a plugging issue). Wherafter it will not start again in the same print. This is traced to the same hotend just randomly cooling down. So the Ulticontroller shows that it knows that T0 is supposed to be 210 deg...but it shows the temp cooling down to ambient anyway. So at this point I guess the firmware safety stops the extruder going because it knows it cannot print. So the unticontroller screen will read something good at the start for T0 and T1 temps like 209/210 208/210 Then at a random point (same gcode !) in Z level (like 4mm or 7.5mm up etc) It will just go to something like: 190/210 208/210 170/210 208/210 150/210 208/210 ..... 208/210 50/210 208/210 etc Weird...as it clearly knows its supposed to be heating both of them...but doesnt or cannot sucessfully heat T0....I check the very basic stuff like all wires screwed in and so on, but dont want to do a full electronics stripdown without feedback. Ideas ? C.
  12. snowygrouch

    Tried to print a rocket, ended up with a wig?

    I recommend recording new or complex prints with webcam on stopmotion. This enables you to diagnose print failures accurately.
  13. snowygrouch

    GCode Simulator & Printer - Test on Ultimaker

    I will have a look when I get back from holiday
  14. I did the same thing, the delrin is not good. Recommended !
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