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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. hi Daid, thanks for the reply, especially thanks for the warning about doing it while the hotend was hot, I would have broken it otherwise. you were right, I tightened it from both sides (nozzle & brass), and it's working fine now. of course, I had to re-align the z-axis after I tightened the nozzle. (just mentioning it for anybody who would have the same problem)
  2. Hi all, I have a problem with my Ultimaker, but I think it's best displayed in photos. here's the extruder head before starting to print https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/Beginning.JPG here it is while it's printing https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/During%20Print.JPG and here it is after it finished https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/End%201.JPG https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/End%202.JPG as you can see, we start with (almost) clean extruder head with the heater, but while it's printing, the plastic is oozing from on top of the extruder head (from
  3. nothing shows on the debug window. I tried to load, then prepare then pressed print, but none of the steps printed anything on the debug window. I also tried running the first time wizard and the checks in it, still nothing was printed on the debug window (ran the tests until it asked me to push the trigger switches, then i cancelled it)
  4. I tried again today, and it seems like after it asks me to press top, it actually proceeds to ask me to push the bottom trigger. however, as a programmer I can say the the problem lies with the label having a fixed size and not allowing for another line to be displayed. so, the problem was that it probably gave me a line about waiting for the heater to cool down & this line made the "press the switch on bottom" disappear, which made me think it was reacting to Top being pushed when I was actually pushing the switch on bottom. thanks for the response Daid, but it all worked out fine E
  5. hi all, I've just assembled my Ultimaker, and unfortunately, it seems like the front-left & front-right are still reversed on their labels on the bottom of the Ultimaker. so, now (after reversing the connections) when I run Cura's firt time wizard and it asks me to click on the front-left limit switch, it work properly and asks for the next switch. anyway, my real confusion and problem arises when it asks me to click on the "TOP" limit switch, if i press it, nothing happens, but when i press the bottom switch, the "next" button becomes enabled !! so in the checks, does "TOP" mean the a
  6. Thanks for the help Daid, greatly appreciated I'll download Cura & have a look around. and I'll probably order the printer, after all, we're talking about parts of a mm & I'm sure a prototype can be made to a larger scale & then rebuilt to scale !!
  7. thanks for the quick reply. I think I understood your answer for (2), but I would like to confirm it. so, if I look from above, I would see a blob that's 0.4mm , but if I look from the side, it would be 0.1mm right ? (in here the 0.1 is the layer thickness) so, if I want 0.1mm precision, I would need to make it on the layer side. ok, another question about t he width. the line is 0.4, but if I want to make something & be precise about it, do I need to make it in multiples of it ? or is 0.4 considered the minimum, but I can actually get 0.5 or 0.6 accurately enough ? also, is it accur
  8. Hi all, I'm new to 3d printing & I've decided to go with Ultimaker because of its reputation on speed & its cited precision. however, I would like to ask a few questions in order to know what's the best combination of items to buy. first, about me. I have had some practice with Solidworks & can comfortably build a 3d model of whatever I need. I intend to use the Ultimaker to prototype some ideas for inventions & whatnot. most of the work would probably be small parts which are sensitive to details (< 1mm). I intend to get the netfabb engine with the printer I want the
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