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hi Daid, thanks for the reply, especially thanks for the warning about doing it while the hotend was hot, I would have broken it otherwise. you were right, I tightened it from both sides (nozzle & brass), and it's working fine now. of course, I had to re-align the z-axis after I tightened the nozzle. (just mentioning it for anybody who would have the same problem)

Hi all, I have a problem with my Ultimaker, but I think it's best displayed in photos. here's the extruder head before starting to print https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/Beginning.JPG here it is while it's printing https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/During%20Print.JPG and here it is after it finished https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/End%201.JPG https://dl.dropbox.com/u/9922538/Ultimaker/End%202.JPG as you can see, we start with (almost) clean extruder head with the heater, but while it's printing, the plastic is oozing from on top of the extruder head (from all around it). and it seems as if there's too much and it's oozing too slow, so, it's overflowing from the top side of the heater. note 1: this was a 30 minute job, the problem gets worse with time and eventually it drips some burnt plastic drops (brown instead of white) on the printed object note 2: I some times (including in this print) take a small piece of paper and try to wipe the overflown plastic onto it and away from the head so it wouldn't drip. my question is how do I prevent this ? is it from extruder steps calibration ? or is it a hardware issue ? using Cura 12.10_RC4 to build the gcode and Pronterface to print it

nothing shows on the debug window. I tried to load, then prepare then pressed print, but none of the steps printed anything on the debug window. I also tried running the first time wizard and the checks in it, still nothing was printed on the debug window (ran the tests until it asked me to push the trigger switches, then i cancelled it)

I tried again today, and it seems like after it asks me to press top, it actually proceeds to ask me to push the bottom trigger. however, as a programmer I can say the the problem lies with the label having a fixed size and not allowing for another line to be displayed. so, the problem was that it probably gave me a line about waiting for the heater to cool down & this line made the "press the switch on bottom" disappear, which made me think it was reacting to Top being pushed when I was actually pushing the switch on bottom. thanks for the response Daid, but it all worked out fine Edit: now that I've run through the first run wizard, I can't print I load a file & slice it, and then press on print GCode & the dialog appears, and the temperature is showing, but only the connect button is enabled, the other buttons and everything in "Jog" is disabled. is it correct to consider "Term" as a log ? do I need to paste it here ? downloading 12.10 RC4 as I edit this post, will try it and post back if the problem is gone. Edit 2: while using Cura 12.10 RC4, if I press Print (after preparing the file) nothing happens. the mouse turns to the "loading" sign for a second then returns to normal, but nothing happens (no new dialog, no sound on the printer or anything. note: while trying 12.08, everytime I press "connect" on the print dialog, I hear some sound from the printer and then it stops. note 2: in cura 12.10rc4, if i show the log after preparing the robot file that came as an example, it has some warnings in there. (I also tried printing a model that didn't have warning, still didn't print) OS: Windows 7 64bit also, a (hopefully) trivial note: in 12.08, under the "term" tab in the print dialog, it said echo: Last Updated: Marlin-Mon, 11 Jun 2012 17:33:42 +0200 - b67dacdc8f1bd489e058e16d92ba29c364b2a8e5 | even though I updated it today 6-Nov-2012. however, I have the date in my system set as dd/mm/yyyy. just wanted to mention this in case it crashes the software when the day becomes > 13 !!

hi all, I've just assembled my Ultimaker, and unfortunately, it seems like the front-left & front-right are still reversed on their labels on the bottom of the Ultimaker. so, now (after reversing the connections) when I run Cura's firt time wizard and it asks me to click on the front-left limit switch, it work properly and asks for the next switch. anyway, my real confusion and problem arises when it asks me to click on the "TOP" limit switch, if i press it, nothing happens, but when i press the bottom switch, the "next" button becomes enabled !! so in the checks, does "TOP" mean the actual switch on top (therefore I should reverse the switch connections for top & bottom) or does it actually mean the switch on the bottom (which according to the console, sets the z_max) ?

Thanks for the help Daid, greatly appreciated I'll download Cura & have a look around. and I'll probably order the printer, after all, we're talking about parts of a mm & I'm sure a prototype can be made to a larger scale & then rebuilt to scale !!

thanks for the quick reply. I think I understood your answer for (2), but I would like to confirm it. so, if I look from above, I would see a blob that's 0.4mm , but if I look from the side, it would be 0.1mm right ? (in here the 0.1 is the layer thickness) so, if I want 0.1mm precision, I would need to make it on the layer side. ok, another question about t he width. the line is 0.4, but if I want to make something & be precise about it, do I need to make it in multiples of it ? or is 0.4 considered the minimum, but I can actually get 0.5 or 0.6 accurately enough ? also, is it accurate enough to go 0.45 ? or am I starting to get ridiculous :lol:

Hi all, I'm new to 3d printing & I've decided to go with Ultimaker because of its reputation on speed & its cited precision. however, I would like to ask a few questions in order to know what's the best combination of items to buy. first, about me. I have had some practice with Solidworks & can comfortably build a 3d model of whatever I need. I intend to use the Ultimaker to prototype some ideas for inventions & whatnot. most of the work would probably be small parts which are sensitive to details (< 1mm). I intend to get the netfabb engine with the printer I want the better plastic type for finer details, but I intend to use the white of either one so that I can color it later if needed. second the questions: 1) would the ultimaker be able to build something like the worm gears ? note that if i print it standing up, there won't be supports between the teeth of the gear & if i print it sitting on the side, there won't be support for the main round body !! 2) which type of plastic is better for finer detail (less than 1 mm) ? & what is the minimum resolution for it ? 3) if I'm printing small parts, can I put more than one part together ? (example: printing the whistle and the bottle opener, there're 2 files, but each is small enough to fit side by side) 4) I heard that the plastic density is around 30%, can I change that ? (if i want a more durable part, can I make it 80-100% and just keep it at 30% for other parts) thank you for reading and your contribution.