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  1. ah oui autant pour moi, je n'avais pas vu la description pour celui là. Et donc ca va, c'est assez solide? t'as essayé de mettre de l'eau dedans? Moi j'aurais peur avec seulement un demi millimètre d’épaisseur.
  2. Tres jolis ces vases, est-ce que tu as déjà essayé la technique qui consiste à imprimer en une seule couche continue: au lieu d'imprimer couche par couche, la plaforme descend continuellement tandis que la tete imprime en continue sans jamais s’arrêter. En gors ca fait une spirale. C'est une technique qui fonctionne avec les vases justement. Dans Cura, cette option est dans Expert Settings, dans la section Black Magic, en gros les truc à essayer à tes risques et périls. Mais je crois que ca ne marche que si tu ne fais qu'une seule épaisseur de paroi, je ne sais pas si c'est très solide.
  3. Oui en effet c'est cette impression que j'ai reussi à sauver. Blocage apres 30 heures impression (le clip du bowden tube qui avait sauté je crois), hors de question de recommencer du debut. Pour la finition, rien de sorcier, du ponçage et de la patience. Le truc c'est qu'on ne voit pas toujours bien sur le plastique poncé si la surface est bien clean, alors je passe un coup de peinture grise à la bombe (un bete primeur, acheté à Brico, l'equivalent belge de Casto). Ca permet de mieu voir les zones qui ont encore besoin de ponçage. Il faut parfois recommencer deux trois fois avant d'etre plein
  4. Juste du poncage, a la main, grain fin, pour pas trop ruiner les details. J'ai essaye a la dremel, mais c'etait trop dangereux, ca faisait des trous. Sur la derniere j'ai utilise du mastique pour masquer les joints (car imprimee en plusieurs morceaux forcement, vue la taille) mais finalement j'en ai utilise un peu partout car ca rendait vraiment bien apres le poncage.
  5. Bonjour tout le monde, ca fait longtemps que je n'ai pas poste car j'avais mis mon imprimante de cote suite a un demenagement, mais elle a repris du service cette semaine. Je suis en train d'impimer un nouveau personnage en PLA transparent dans lequel je vais faire passer des LED. Puis je vais la peindre en masquant certaines zones specifiques, de sorte que seulement celles ci s'illuminent. Ca demande pas mal de preparation mais ca se presente bien, j'ai fait quelques tests, en passant plusieurs couches de peinture ca fonctionne bien. Je posterai des photos ce week end si j'y pense En attenda
  6. Well polygon count and file size are linked, the more poly, the bigger the file. Be careful with meshlab decimation, while the result might look good, it's pretty destructive, it generates non-manifolds faces on a previously clean meshes. When I prepared my pyro for printing, it was too heaving for cura so I ran it through mesh lab. But then I had to spend hours cleaning the mesh, removing non-manifold faces in maya. Now I decimate meshes directly in mudbox, the latest version has an optimization tool that is less destructive.
  7. I think this one would be hard. Because once you have applied putty on some areas, you have to be able to sand it off, meaning those areas must be easily accessible. Plus, indeed, if you get some putty in those panel lines, you tell them good bye, unless you scrape it later with a blade
  8. I have not measured it yet but it's taller than 30 cm, because I brought it at work today where I have this baby and my pyro is about 5cm taller. Yes I'm going to paint it when I come back from vacation in two weeks. In fact you are right, at first I only covered holes with putty but I was so happy with the result that in the end I applied it everywhere on smooth surface like the gloves or the boots. Just a thin layer, just enough to fill the print lines. Works really well. Once sanded and painted, you can't see it I'm sure there are other similar products that are cheaper and that can be b
  9. I have a secret weapon: It's Tamiya's putty. I remembered my father used this when he was making model kits so I gave it a try and it's perfect! First I sand the model with rough sand paper to get rid of blobs and smoothen the surface a bit, but not to much because I don't want to sand details off. Then I apply the putty in holes, print lines, support marks... Let it dry for bit. Then I send again with a thinner paper until most of the putty is gone and it feels smooth to touch. Then a coat of gray primer.It will make last imperfections visible if there are any. Repeat the putty process if
  10. WIP. I wanted to finish it before going on holiday, but I won't have time. The missing parts are already printed and being sanded, almost done. It's still missing the air tank on his back, and three smoke grenades on his chest and I think that's it. the axe is supposed to be wrapped in barbwire. I could not print that of course, so I'm going to try to make it with electric wire. Yes it's big, I'm not 12 years old or have midget hands. I have to hold it because it does not stay up. Kinda saw it coming. The feet are flat and everything but the center of gravity is high and forward (especially b
  11. ho yes, I finished it over a month ago, I posted the photos in a separate thread. I guess I should have posted it here Here they are One of the question I got the most was "how did you get it to stick to the mirror", I used epoxy glue, that's what I use to glue print parts together too. It's slower that superglue but more flexible, it won't snap as easily And I'm almost done with my pyro. All the parts are printed, I'm sanding it slowly, I hope to finish it thing week end. It's huge, over a foot tall
  12. So acceleration of 3000 gives better results? it's funny that it used to be Marlin's default setting before I'll give it another shot because I was mostly messing with the jerk value thinking it was the most responsible for ringing. Thank you for sharing. I tried to do similar tests a month ago, but for some reason, it was one of those days where nothing worked: print not sticking to bed, under extrusion, nozzle getting clogged...
  13. Hi again Daid, I have another suggestion/request, maybe it's just me, but I think the brim line amount should be moved from the expert setting to the advance setting, because that's something I tend to modify for every print. Mostly because the supports are not yet taken into account when the brim is generated and I have to adjust the raft size so the supports are printed on it. Once this is fixed, this should not be a problem anymore.
  14. From my experience, I have tried modifying jerk, acceleration and even adding weight to the plate, but did not see any improvement. In fact, lowering the acceleration and jerk too much produced worst results, as the print head would slow down too much and produce some blobs. I don't see how changing temperature may affect this though.
  15. Very nice work and very nice photos too, at first I thought it was a 3d render Not nearly as bad as in Maya, really. I used to go to 3dsmax just for boolean before because it would just not work in maya. The proBoolean in 3dsmax is really not bad at all. Now I have found a decent boolean script for maya which works ok and allows me to keep it all in one program, which is much easier
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