ultifan
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Posts posted by ultifan
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Hi,
My glass plate is about the same.
Did you try reversing it or rotate it, maybe it helps a bit ?
I believe it's made from regular hardened/ tempered glass.
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hi, i have prolems with levelling print bed i leveld three corners but de four is about 0,5mm lower.
i have a 4mm glas plate on my heatbed so that is flat.
can somebody help me?
I had a similar problem, the (wooden) bed was a little warped, so one (front) side was lower.
Because of this, the tension of the spring at this lowest corner was minimal compared to the other corners.
To solve this, I added 2 washers between the spring / Plexiglas printing bed, so the spring gets more compressed.
Now there is more spring-tension pushing against this corner of the bed, so it levels upwards.
Hope this solves your problem.
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Same for me.
Thanks !
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I agree,
More accurate filament diameter would be the best solution.
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Hmm...interesting.....
But even if you could have a super accurate UM, you would still have the issue of the varying filament diameter ?
Yes, the flow-rate can be adjusted on the Ulticontroller, but wouldn't it be nice to have some device that can register the filament diameter in real time, so the extruder process can be adjusted accordingly in advance..?
Then that device could send a signal to the Ulticontroller, and adjust the flowrate, just like you can do manually.
Only difference, the adjustment takes place before, instead of after an extrusion problem occurs.
Problem is, UM would have to incorporate such a device input into a new ulticontroller....
Such a device could possibly be made with a sort of Hall-sensor, capable of measuring very small movements caused by the varying filament diameter.
Maybe a little off topic, but still an interesting idea for future upgrades....?
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Actually, sign me in for 10 x 8 and 2 x 5 mm pulleys.
A full set pulleys : 10 x 8 and 2 x 5 mm !!
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Hello,
If it is still possible, I also would like to pre-order a set of pulleys for the Ultimaker.
I would like to order a full set : 8 x 8mmm and 2 x 5mm.
I have Paypal, so please let me know when it's time to make the payment for the order.
Thanks for your efforts !
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Don't know how you conclude to underextrusion. It thinks the filament is smaller (2,89) than what it is (2,93) so more plastic arrives at the head (overextrusion).
I tried increasing the flow before, the head was already full and the feeder turned empty.
That's correct, if Cura thinks it's getting 2.89 mm, but in reality you have (measured) 2.93 (average), you should get more PLA mass per length /time, thus get over-extruding, in theory.
Unless, your measuring tool is not accurate....
Imho, the best way to find out if this is causing under-extruding is, lower your PLA ( ! ) filament diameter in Cura.
(I assume you've checked in Cura PLA, not ABS)
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By the way, i'm not a big fan of chinese made calipers !
Especially NOT, when measuring in 1/100 mm's.
Cheers !
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You're absolutely right !
I confused the names extruder and feeder.
The blue-taped end of tube should be at the FEEDER side.
So it can ENTER SMOOTHLY into the bowden like entering a funnel.
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Assuming you have an accurate dial caliper, your filament diam. is quite high... ?!
Indeed, according to your measurements, you should over-extrude.
But, you don't, so something is wrong, just try with 2.85mm and see what happens.
Did you ever changed some steps per E, or density values (should be 1300 ) ?
If so, i should re-install Cura and change to 2.85mm filament diam. and see what happens...
About the gap between your bowden - filament, from what i've seen on many photos this is normal.
Assuming you don't have a faulty / cracked / torn bowden-tube, I don't believe this can cause a problem.
I assume you did install the "blue taped side" of the bowden at the extruder end ?
That's important, because that end of the bowden-tube is widened on the inside, so the filament can enter the tube easily (funnel idea).
Also check if the extruder-tension/ spring properly tightened (but not too tight), about 3-5 turns tight.
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Some clarifications: I printed small models to get quick results without wasting too much plastic if it failed. I intend to print for other people, so sizes and shapes will be varied.
When I don’t specify the settings it means that the default ones from quickprint normal quality have been used.
By floor I meant not the bottom but an horizontal mesh that is layered between infills.
To illuminatri:
By backslash do you mean that the rods can move inside the frame ? (I noticed this during assembly and added a washer but it didn’t block it) or that a pulley is not held tight to the rod ?
What should be the temperature for 100mm/s and 150 ? is there a formula ?
I use a calliper to measure the distance between over the tape and under the heat block. Right now it’s level to 0,15mm precision.
I already made sure during assembly that the bolts pushed down the plate and that the spring was held by a bottom and top washer.
I don’t know what makes you say my bed isn’t level. If it’s the furthest line on the test print then it always comes out this way, due to early underextrusion I assume. I posted another photo and you should be able to see that the line gets thinner at the center.
I don’t see where it’s under extruding except where there are holes in the 100mm/s prints.
If by underextruding you mean not extruding all the time then I think it’s because the temperature was too low for 100mm/s. If on the other hand you mean that it’s not extruding enough plastic during the whole print then I don’t see the reason for that because I’m using Ultimaking hardware (nozzle, PLA etc) and default software settings (0,4mm nozzle and 2,89mm filament) - unless Ultimaking gave me a different nozzle and a very bad filament (checked, it matches). To me it looks like the pathway is simply not covering the entire surface. It’s doing A instead of B
I didn’t change the steps settings. The filament is held firmly by the feeder, it has marks after it goes through it. However, by design, the feeder is not solidary from the frame - should I secure it ?
What about my belts tension, do they make the right sound in the video ?
I have already tried advanced settings but the current issue don’t let me appreciate them.
To gr5:
In Make magazine’s torture test, when finishing the box, the nozzle would not do sides ABCD, ABCD etc but would go back to a start point.
In Makerbot’s torture test there is a thin wall, I think it should have appeared in the Y=40mm print.
To all:
I printed a full size calibration model (using illuminatri’s settings), took pictures and annotated them to show the defects. Tell me your conclusions.
Hi,
In case you still have general under extrusion problems, you could try this,
In Cura, lower filament diameter to approx. 2.85 mm.
Imho, 2.89mm is on the high side of thickness (should be most accurate average thickness of filament)
My experience with Ultimaker filament diameter, varies from min. 2.80 - 2.90 MAX.
So, when you set it to to high, under-extrusion will occur because in reality less filament will extrude based on a too high filament diameter.
Maybe it's also a good idea to reinstall Cura before you change this value...
Glass plate not flat
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Also,
When I received my heated bed upgrade, I noticed some protruding screws from the heating plate.
I shortened the screw heads a little, and they now are flush with the heating-plate,
thus the glass plate is in better contact with the heating plate.
I guess it is now a better situation for flatness and heating the glass plate.