[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

looks good, start a print soon.

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

I hope using your hint to save as "project", I hope this gives enough information.

Gunther

MFORU_Brücke_x.3mf

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

ah, "not overridden", that's it!

I keep searching anyway.

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

Hi Tinkergnome,

thanks for the hint to choose Marlin, have changed it, but no progress.

Maybe you see something in the file.

Thanks and 

kind regards

Gunther

MFORU_Brücke 3b.3mf

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

ah, you asked to upload 3mf files, here they come:

MFORU_Brücke 3.3mf UM3E_Brücke 3.3mf

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

Just in case it helps to look at my files I enclose the two g-code files.

MFORU_Brücke 3.gcode UM3E_Brücke 3.gcode

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

Hi Tinkergnome, good that the old experts are still around.

I am so glad to get some response so fast.

 

Now, I changed filament in Extruder 2, just to move it around, that work fine.

So I think it is not a mechanical problem on the printer.

 

But I studied Cura more in depth, and to me the problem lies there.

 

The screen does not show the use of extruder 2, just Extruder one and no support tower.

Also when I wanted only to print with extruder 2 it automatically started with Extruder 1 alone.

 

I have no clue to get Cura right.

I also used the same file on my Printer Ultimaker 3/ Cura, and it seem to print correctly with both extruders,

or rather it creates the correct file.

 

I enclose some screenshots. I hope that helps.

 

Your tip to check the g-code sounds right, but the Cura surface already shows this fault.

 

Thank you and kind regards

Gunther

[Ultimaker Mark 2 does not work anymore]

Hi, Experts, I had long been happy with my Mark 2 upgrade.
Now I found that the second print head does not work.

if in Cura I want to start a dual print, it only uses Print head 1.

if, as a test, I want only print with the second extruder only (specified in Cura) still only the first Print head prints, not the one I had chosen.

 

any advice from the Mark 2 Experts?

kind regards

Gunther

[DXU - Efficient Dual Extrusion Upgrade for UM2+]

Hi, everyone,

congratulation for the great work yyh1002, very impressive!

l do have a question:

The hot end unit that moves up and down surely has some play in it otherwise it would not move up and down.

When the hot end is in the down position how is the unit held in its precise x-y-location?
On my UM3 the precision comes from the spring pressing the moving hot end unit down against a tapered seat in a metal part at the bottom of the head.
Which part or which lay-out in your design ensures the x-y-position precisely?

Or do I expect problems where there is none??

Thanks and sorry to ask this after everyone says it prints fine.

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Great! Sounds spot on.

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Hi Experts,

for my Mark 2 UM2 I want to use Cura 4.0. Are the current Mark2 resource files suitable?

When I want to activate the Mark2 UM2 in Cura 4.0 I get the following error message and do not know how to correct my files:

See enclosed screenshot.

What can I do?  Or stick with Cura 3.3.1 ?

Thanks 

Gunther

["Larger build plate-UM2" with mark2upgrade]

I have my "UMO 2+" with mark2, which is beside the wooden frame an UM2.. 

And then I only have one interface. Can Duet be used with Tinker mark2 firmware??

 

["Larger build plate-UM2" with mark2upgrade]

Oh, great. That solves it then.

Thank you.

Gunther

["Larger build plate-UM2" with mark2upgrade]

Hi experts,

I am thinking of building a larger printer using the Jennyprinter 4x340 as mechanical base. Build size would be 340 x 220mm. 

I intend to use Ultimaker 2 electronics and also upgrade to mark2 dual extrusion.

My question is: Do I need a special version of the firmware or is it sufficient to adjust the size in Cura? 

Thanks

Gunther

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Hi morfeushav, 

I understand that the lifting is through the wave spring on each side and the extruded "active" filament presses the relevant nozzle down. 

Once retract the nozzle goes up. That part is quite ingenious in its simplicity.

 

I do not fully understand why this needs water cooling.

 

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Hi conny_g,

I am having very similar problems. I thought it was down to movements of the head in x-direction.

I keep printing new couplings to avoid the slight movement of the bottom magnets. 

 

But since I read your findings I think I have something similar in addition:

First I calibrate properly using the well known xy scales for adjustment.

Then I print something and the surprise offset is more the .5mm out in both directions. That is right from the start.

Then I used some calibration model (four checkered square) in the center and calibrated from there.

That give me less offset in the printed model but still and again .3 to .5mm offset.

 

As I said I blamed my mechanical execution of the coupling print but the offset I find is more than the mechanical looseness I have at the bottom magnets.

I cannot offer a solution to you other than saying if there would be some software glitch it would also explain what I find.

[Welcome to Ultimaker Cura 3.2 | Stable]

I just want to report that on Cura 3.2 on MacBook I do not have proper letters, see attached screenshot.

I have this only on 3.2. 

Any suggestion what to do?

Thank you.

 

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

1 hour ago, Glomby said:

Mark2 Cura profile vs. the UM3 Cura

In my opinion the difference in support structure is due to the different characteristic between Cura 2.5 and Cura 3.1. It is not the difference in UM2 vs UM3.

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Thank you, maybe I should just try and filament loading will give me the first indication where I stand.

Sometimes one reads too much instead of just trying ;-)

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Thank you very much, the factory reset stopped the extended z movement.

Now I will go through the whole settings again including a renewal of the firmware.

 

One other question:

I have used the stepper of the UM Original feeder to drive the UM2 feeder for the second unit. 

It is this one.  

Also I believe the same the UMO uses for xyz axis movement.

Can you tell me how many steps I need to adjust to and - more important - where do I change the steps per length?

 

[Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade]

Good morning experts,

I am stuck with my Mark 2 conversion and need some help.

 

I had my Ultimaker original - very original, one of the very first - converted to be an UM2+.

This "UMO2+" is a very good printer and gives a lot of joy.

Next step was to convert to Mark 2.

Everything went fine with one problem remaining.

When I want to "adjust z" my print bed moves up and never stops. The print bed then crushes into the print head.

I do not know how to make the print bed stop near the nozzle.

 

Now, one suspicion I have:

Loading the Tinker firmware I initially made the mistake to load the extended version, but had that replaced twice with the correct firmware version "expansion-board".

I had the firmware replaced before I started to "adjust z".

It appears as if the Ultimaker still has the extended length in force, despite the change in firmware.

 

Maybe someone has experienced the same and/ or could offer advice . 

Thank you very much.

 

 

 

[UM2 Z Screw clicking]

I do not know how to reduce the z-stpper current on the UM original. Must be in the firmware. But I do not know how to open or view the uploaded firmware.

Meanwhile I got a response from Ultimaker support and hope for a helpful outcome of the ongoing discussion.

 

[Ultimaker Original with Heated Bed Kit- Z axis problem]

Printing sideways with a fan:

I had put the printer on four blocks and directed a cold blower towards the electronics. I could print alright but gave up after 10min. I proved to myself that the overheating was the problem.

With the original fan replaced I thought that the problem would be solved. But it only improved - meaning printing stops later.

Presently I have to travel and need to investigate later. Maybe in the meantime Ultimaker can come up with a clever suggestion. Thanks for the 19 to 12 V converter hint, will check again that the fan works properly.

 

[UM2 Z Screw clicking]

Another update from my side:

I have replaced the fan for the electronic board. Now the fault free print duration increased from 30 seconds to 30 minutes. Maybe after many more attempts there is a tendency this becomes worse (shorter) again.

It is definitely an overheating problem of the z-axis controller.

I have written to Ultimaker support many times. As my ticket is still not drawn to be answered my question to the experts:

What could I do?

Thanks anyway.

 

[Ultimaker Original with Heated Bed Kit- Z axis problem]

Just an update on my problem with the funny z-axis.

I had damaged the electronics fan and meanwhile replaced. The print duration without problems increased from 30sec to 30 min. It is an overheating z-axis controller.

So what can I do? Someone suggested to reduce the maximum current of the z-stepper. But how do I do this on an Ultimaker original?

I had written 7 times to the Ultimaker support but so far my ticket was not drawn yet.

Any suggestion from the expert community?

Thanks anyway.