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ulbie

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  1. Problem now solved...i feel stupid:) I could not explain myself why the maxtemp error for the HB still occurs after flashing just the arduino again and putting up the custom firmware. I measured the the 100k thermistor and it seems that it was broken. By plugging out the connection of the HB sensor the error did not occur. Cross switched the connections of heater sensor and HB sensor and once again got the error. Reassembled HB and measured again, everthing suddenly looked good with right resistance. Plugged in the HB sensor and error was gone... Problem was short circuit...damn!!!
  2. hey guys and girls, I have a problem with updating my ulti original with self build heated bed to the newest firmware. Therefore I always used the marlinbuilder without any problems. (http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/) Normally cura should be doing fine with updating the firmware (MarlinUltimaker-HBK-250000.hex) but by doing this the temperature stays at 0° and can not be changed. So I tried the good old marlinbuilder and build my own hex-file as usual. But when I tried to upload everytime a timeout error occurs. There seems to be a problem with the latest cura version and I don't know w
  3. WOW!!! Absolut geile Idee an der ich mich gerne als ein Co-Printer beteilligen würde! Finde die Idee super, erinnert mich an ein anderes ähnliches Projekt indem auch das Puzzle-Prizip angewendet werden soll um einfach große und lebensechte Gegenstände in die Welt zu setzen:) Also ich für meinen Teil hätte riesige Lust euch dabei zu unterstützen und meinen Teil beizutragen! Ich hoffe ihr habt noch Platz!!! Grüße, Ulbie
  4. Upps, misinterpreted;) But yeah, had that in my mind too. But I don't use it often. It is also not always plugged in, I just put it on in case I need it and therefore I think it should work. I'll try it;)
  5. @Nicolinux ABS would be better for this print but I'm empty, it is made out of PLA. But the fitting is just perfect. Problem for this kind of stuff is the shrinkage, it is not possible to just take a model of the mobile and do a boolean. I had to postprocess the surfaces, but it worked just fine.
  6. Just a short rough print... Needed a navigation for an old BMW E46 so i made a plug and play version for the HTC One. Just clip it in the ventilation and everything is fine:) Took a model from GrabCAD to realize it, works just perfect.
  7. @Lennart Looks like Mass Effect i guess, but I'm not sure. Hope you get a clean print soon. Take your time and and try to generate a support structure with meshmixer. I like cura a lot, it is a powerful software, but in this case it is not the best choice for support;)
  8. Wow, thank you braddock! There are two things I realized after watching your video post: 1. I love what people are able to do with this kind of software. Without them we could not print such beautiful models which are always fascinating the people! Keep doing that awesome stuff! 2. I totally love the parametric stuff! I could not go without it. When I listened to the guy I started laughing when he just switched between different key forms like he wanted till he thought: ok, that looks good. I would be sooo insecure, I just need exact dimensions:) Anyway, nice batman LeoDDC !!! The Ultimake
  9. @Wallan: fantastic pinup WIP, looks awesome! Hope that you soon will post some new stuff about it! @Leo DDC i like the print with white PLA! Apart from that your prints are getting better;) I think it is not the right thread for it but i try it anyway:) Did somebody already switched to direct drive with the Ulti Original? And those who did, are you satisfied? Today i startet to get things done and did the first part for the left side. The second is on the run. I tried to make it small but in a way that everything is visible because I wanted to see the coupling moving. I like mashines! I wil
  10. @Valcrow...already seen, very nice! http://www.3ders.org//articles/20140505-3d-print-your-own-obi-wan-lightsaber.html @LeoDDC No problem, I just think these beautiful models need a good quality in the real world;) I don't know exactly your problem, there can be lots of issues which cause the noise in the surface. First of all it is no secret that every filament is different. As already mentioned therfore you need to check your parameters especially your acceleration and yerk settings (slow down) more than the actual speed. Acceleration is the key, not only the speed! I think the Ulti 2 is
  11. Hey Leo DDC, thanks for the comparison! Very interesting to see those results. I also printed with the ultimaker blue and didn't like it very much. It seems very soft and smeary for me, not really rigid. I don't want to hurt you but I have to say that I would be very very disappointed with the quality of the prints. Even at small overhangs the surface ist pretty bad. Do you print with a Ultimaker 1 or 2? I think I have to print the models too to get a feeling for it. Are they already shared on thingiverse or youmagine? Hope so. Did not have the time to search for it yet. Can't believe that
  12. I'll be there again and of course would like to take a beer with you lan...(I think two+ are better) Need to find a cheap place where I can rest for the night, let's have a look!
  13. Ok Valcrow, you convinced me with that beautiful thing...next time to carnival I will dress myself as a jedi:) Whenever I see a cheap plastic replica in a shop I will laugh by knowing I have the better one...just need to get some painting skills;) Great job!
  14. hey guys... never posted something here but i always love the stuff you make. my latest project is a controlpanel because i didn't like the original. wanted something with silver and wood and here it is. a little big but i wanted it like that:) the switches are there to turn on the light and the heated bed. there are also hidden LED's above the switches that light through the front. i made a design that i can easily switch between masks with different colors. next step is to install all the electric components and then i'm done;)
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