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  1. Problem now solved...i feel stupid:) I could not explain myself why the maxtemp error for the HB still occurs after flashing just the arduino again and putting up the custom firmware. I measured the the 100k thermistor and it seems that it was broken. By plugging out the connection of the HB sensor the error did not occur. Cross switched the connections of heater sensor and HB sensor and once again got the error. Reassembled HB and measured again, everthing suddenly looked good with right resistance. Plugged in the HB sensor and error was gone... Problem was short circuit...damn!!!
  2. hey guys and girls, I have a problem with updating my ulti original with self build heated bed to the newest firmware. Therefore I always used the marlinbuilder without any problems. (http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/) Normally cura should be doing fine with updating the firmware (MarlinUltimaker-HBK-250000.hex) but by doing this the temperature stays at 0° and can not be changed. So I tried the good old marlinbuilder and build my own hex-file as usual. But when I tried to upload everytime a timeout error occurs. There seems to be a problem with the latest cura version and I don't know what to do now. Anybody with the same problem? Any suggestion what to do? Greetings, ulbie
  3. WOW!!! Absolut geile Idee an der ich mich gerne als ein Co-Printer beteilligen würde! Finde die Idee super, erinnert mich an ein anderes ähnliches Projekt indem auch das Puzzle-Prizip angewendet werden soll um einfach große und lebensechte Gegenstände in die Welt zu setzen:) Also ich für meinen Teil hätte riesige Lust euch dabei zu unterstützen und meinen Teil beizutragen! Ich hoffe ihr habt noch Platz!!! Grüße, Ulbie
  4. Upps, misinterpreted;) But yeah, had that in my mind too. But I don't use it often. It is also not always plugged in, I just put it on in case I need it and therefore I think it should work. I'll try it;)
  5. @Nicolinux ABS would be better for this print but I'm empty, it is made out of PLA. But the fitting is just perfect. Problem for this kind of stuff is the shrinkage, it is not possible to just take a model of the mobile and do a boolean. I had to postprocess the surfaces, but it worked just fine.
  6. Just a short rough print... Needed a navigation for an old BMW E46 so i made a plug and play version for the HTC One. Just clip it in the ventilation and everything is fine:) Took a model from GrabCAD to realize it, works just perfect.
  7. @Lennart Looks like Mass Effect i guess, but I'm not sure. Hope you get a clean print soon. Take your time and and try to generate a support structure with meshmixer. I like cura a lot, it is a powerful software, but in this case it is not the best choice for support;)
  8. Wow, thank you braddock! There are two things I realized after watching your video post: 1. I love what people are able to do with this kind of software. Without them we could not print such beautiful models which are always fascinating the people! Keep doing that awesome stuff! 2. I totally love the parametric stuff! I could not go without it. When I listened to the guy I started laughing when he just switched between different key forms like he wanted till he thought: ok, that looks good. I would be sooo insecure, I just need exact dimensions:) Anyway, nice batman LeoDDC !!! The Ultimaker community is just crazy, I love how people help each other and get their their prints optimized!
  9. @Wallan: fantastic pinup WIP, looks awesome! Hope that you soon will post some new stuff about it! @Leo DDC i like the print with white PLA! Apart from that your prints are getting better;) I think it is not the right thread for it but i try it anyway:) Did somebody already switched to direct drive with the Ulti Original? And those who did, are you satisfied? Today i startet to get things done and did the first part for the left side. The second is on the run. I tried to make it small but in a way that everything is visible because I wanted to see the coupling moving. I like mashines! I will put a embedded damper between the stepper and the holder to not get to loud. It is not yet a print but i will try my best to bring you some fully assembled pics when everything is done. Greetings
  10. @Valcrow...already seen, very nice! http://www.3ders.org//articles/20140505-3d-print-your-own-obi-wan-lightsaber.html @LeoDDC No problem, I just think these beautiful models need a good quality in the real world;) I don't know exactly your problem, there can be lots of issues which cause the noise in the surface. First of all it is no secret that every filament is different. As already mentioned therfore you need to check your parameters especially your acceleration and yerk settings (slow down) more than the actual speed. Acceleration is the key, not only the speed! I think the Ulti 2 is not made for fast printing, imho the Original therefore is better. I have not much experience with the ulti 2 but in my university I tried a bit playing around with it and was surprised about the menu. No doubt, everything looks good and clean, it is a nice printer, but for me as a Ulti original user I would never change my system with the new one because I could not play with particular parameters while printing...big disadvantage for me. Anyhow, definitely try to print with different speed and acceleration parameters. On the other hand try to print with a lower temperature with full fans on. Also check your shell thickness, i suggest minimum 0,8 mm. As IRoberI already said, the first layers are important especially to prevent warping and get a good stick to the bed, but that's not the point in your case. One thing that I realized when printing freeforms with nice curves is the number of polygones of the model. If you want to achieve a high quality print every model must be optimized for 3d printing. I realized a while ago that to much polygones in a model kill the quality. Either you get a slicing fail or the printer starts to stutter while printing the outlines instead of driving smoothly. I once read that the Ulti can not handle a certain amount of data. For example if a radius consists of too much segments, the printer is not able to execute fast enough all segments and so starts to stutter. Check the pictures, the surface reminds me of your problem. That's no real overextrusion, the overextrusion just happens because the printer waits while processing. You can simply test your quality requirements with a round model like this ring (I did so). Generate different stl qualities of it. With my CAD software I can set the size of the polygones and know the minimum I can go. Try to load the model in cura and compare the different qualities. Even if it looks like that the resolution/artifacts are to big, give it a try and print it. You soon will see which way to go. Nevertheless, your models are awesome and the bigger prints look very good. But I still think you can do better!
  11. Hey Leo DDC, thanks for the comparison! Very interesting to see those results. I also printed with the ultimaker blue and didn't like it very much. It seems very soft and smeary for me, not really rigid. I don't want to hurt you but I have to say that I would be very very disappointed with the quality of the prints. Even at small overhangs the surface ist pretty bad. Do you print with a Ultimaker 1 or 2? I think I have to print the models too to get a feeling for it. Are they already shared on thingiverse or youmagine? Hope so. Did not have the time to search for it yet. Can't believe that the quality is this bad!
  12. I'll be there again and of course would like to take a beer with you lan...(I think two+ are better) Need to find a cheap place where I can rest for the night, let's have a look!
  13. Ok Valcrow, you convinced me with that beautiful thing...next time to carnival I will dress myself as a jedi:) Whenever I see a cheap plastic replica in a shop I will laugh by knowing I have the better one...just need to get some painting skills;) Great job!
  14. hey guys... never posted something here but i always love the stuff you make. my latest project is a controlpanel because i didn't like the original. wanted something with silver and wood and here it is. a little big but i wanted it like that:) the switches are there to turn on the light and the heated bed. there are also hidden LED's above the switches that light through the front. i made a design that i can easily switch between masks with different colors. next step is to install all the electric components and then i'm done;)
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