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IRobertI

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  1. It's not listed on the page, but more than likely this is 1.75mm filament since it's mentioned as being Makerbot filament. So it will not work on any current Ultimaker printer as they all use 2.85mm.
  2. If you go to System -> Maintenance -> Diagnostics -> Limit switches, does the indicator for the Z-switch get an "X" in it? And does it go away when you manually grab the platform and pull it up? If not, you're either dealing with a broken switch, a bad solder joint of the wires attached to the switch itself or a bad connection to the mainboard. If you have access to a multimeter you can probe the connector for continuity and see if it gets continuity when the switch is pressed, that would verify that the switch is physically ok or not.
  3. Many of the parts are the same, but not all (sorry, I don't have a list I can share). Your local reseller should be able to help you get the parts you need. They might not have them all listed in the store but they'll be able to get them for you.
  4. Select the models as a group by holding down shift and clicking each one. Then right click on one of them and select "Merge models".
  5. If the shift was happening in the gcode you would see that in the preview in Cura. It's very unlikely though. More likely is that you have a loose pulley or something along those lines. I'm not familiar with that particular printer but I would check that all your screws are tight and that the belts have proper tension.
  6. Your end gcode has a "G28 X Z". G28 tells the printer to home the specified axis and unless your printer uses the Z axis as something other than up and down movement you probably want to change Z to Y. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29
  7. Clean the print cores (hot and/or cold pulls), if time is more valuable than money, try replacing them with fresh ones. Open up the feeders and clean off the wheel that drives the filament. Clean off the z-screw and re-lubricate with fresh grease. Might want to consider replacing the bowden tubes as well if you have printed with them for a long time. But the first three is what I suggest starting with.
  8. Ah ok, that explains it 🙂 Head over to eiger.io that's where the slicer is.
  9. Markforged printers don't accept regular gcode, and Cura has no idea how to deal with the fibre reinforcement either. Is there a specific reason you don't want to use Eiger which is made specifically for those printers?
  10. Pause print, lift lever on feeder, pull old filament out, push new filament in (with a bit of extra push to properly prime), close lever and un-pause?
  11. Look at the line under that, it moves back to Z0.3 to begin printing.
  12. I assume you got a PDF with instructions from your reseller to do the firmware recovery? Did you follow the step where you use a separate program to write the firmware file to the memory card to make it bootable? You can't simply copy the file to the card, that will not work.
  13. That's supposed to be a zero, not an O as in Oscar. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011640440
  14. Take a look at this and see if it helps: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura
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