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IRobertI

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  1. Unless you've turned off active levelling, the printer will measure and take care of the height offset between the two cores. To be a bit pedantic, the UM3 can also use Breakaway. The material was launched before the S3 and S5 existed.
  2. Not sure I agree with you here. Breakaway is made to be printed in the same(ish) way as PVA, in direct contact with the material you're trying to support. If you're going to have 1mm distance between support and support-material you might as well use the build material for support and save time and money.
  3. Do a lift switch calibration and you should be good to go: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120-Lift-switch-calibration
  4. I mean, it's almost one option as it is. Changing "Support extruder" sets all the options below to that extruder (which you'd have to do regardless) and then change "Support infill extruder" to your other extruder and you're done. It's not a super common thing that people ask for since quite often it's not applicable as the support would be stuck inside the model.
  5. You can just change which extruder to use for the different areas of the generated support.
  6. I've been working with Ultimaker technical support for six years and I don't think I've ever had that be the root cause of layer shifts/leaning prints. Not saying it's impossible and I might have forgotten such a case, just that it's not something I can remember seeing. 99% of the time it's the pulleys on the motor shafts when it comes to layer shifts. https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning
  7. If you look at the right print core, does that lift/lower as it should during the process? Does the print head move to the back right corner and use the little "bracket" there to actuate the little lever on the side of the print head? If it doesn't, you will need to perform a "Lift switch calibration" (it's simple and quick to do). It has happened on occasion that printers have lost this calibration. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011545039-How-to-calibrate-the-Lift-switch-on-the-Ultimaker-S5
  8. Hello there. Just in case you missed it, your previous post has already been approved a long time ago. Here it is for reference:
  9. Yes, I meant that there are pre-made scripts that will let you pause at specific heights or layer numbers. No way to automatically pause for supports roofs though I'm afraid. Then again I don't think it would be difficult to create a script for that (for someone who is used to writing such scripts).
  10. Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify Gcode -> Add a script -> Pause at X
  11. Hmm... I'm not quite sure how this would work? A single layer of plastic directly on the platform will still be at the same temperature as the glass. I don't think I've ever heard this suggested before so I'm a bit hesitant to accept it straight off the bat. Since you're seeing temperatures of up to 230C for PLA, I would make sure the temperatures in the profile are actually correct. A higher than normal print temperature and possibly bed temperature can cause both bad overhangs and warping. Or maybe you've chosen the wrong nozzle diameter in Cura? If you've chosen 0.6mm or more, then the 230C temperature is expected. When it comes to the shifting, in my experience, 99% of the time this is due to loose pulleys on the motor shafts (or possibly that they are too far out on the shafts and rubbing up against the walls of the printer). While it's important that the axes are held in place and the belts run straight, I've seen printers produce normal prints with axes that are bouncing 1cm back and forth during the print, barely staying in the frame. So I don't think this is the cause in this case.
  12. How is your third fan doing? The one on the backside of the printhead. It should be spinning as soon as you power on your printer or when the nozzle reaches ~40C (depends on the age of your mainboard).
  13. It can be turned by inserting something like a small allen wrench or screw driver into the holes and then turning. To give yourself some more space to work you can remove the front left screw from the print head so that you can turn further before having to reposition. Not necessary now of course, but good to know for the future 🙂
  14. Your block simply isn't screwed in far enough into your hot end isolator (the thing with the holes). If it doesn't want to go any further it's because you have dirt in your threads most likely. Try heating the block up and tightening again. The isolator should be able to screw in all the way until it touches the block.
  15. Post a picture of what your setup looks like instead, that would make it a lot easier to figure out what's going on.
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