IRobertI

You wouldn't. Cura doesn't have a function to edit a model that way.

Click on Help->Show Configuration Folder and it'll open up the folder that holds the settings for your install.

It all depends. What scale you're going for and what level of quality you're hoping to get out of it/how much post processing you're willing to do. I'd start by reaching out to them and ask for screenshots of what the 3d-printable files look like (for 900 they should be willing to do that I would hope...) to get a better idea of what that actually means. They offer STEP-files which can easily be converted for STL for free, so what more are they doing to the files to make them worth 900 bucks?

I'd start by recalibrating the decouplers and see if that helps. Link to PDF with instructions: https://makerbot.my.salesforce.com/sfc/p/j0000000HOnW/a/5b000004TwzY/w4vGOQBUczvGtnXmn4be30qA4qSvyCk8i7WV9f0XpSw

Try a firmware recovery and see if that brings it back to life: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667418049459

Everything except the problem with not reaching temperature points to a broken or obstructed fan in the lid of the print head. The fan should spin as soon as either printcore goes above 40C.

It does not. The S7 has an added sensor that can detect if the door opens up to help a bit with this.

I'm not sure why you're making things so complicated with modifying the brim settings when you can just let the Skirt do the job for you. "Skirt" is an option under "Build plate adhesion type" and is what is getting enabled when you're turning off "Adhesion" in the simple "Recommended" view of the settings. That's the outline you mentioned in your previous post. The skirt can be customized to set how many lines it should print, which distance it should be from the model and the minimum length of the skirt (when printing tiny objects a single line might not be enough). All this is doing is priming your nozzle to make sure it's full of plastic before the actual model starts getting printed. When the nozzle isn't fully primed the start of the first layer of the model will usually have issues.

You can't update the firmware via Cura? You should be able to connect your printer with an USB cable to your computer and update from within Cura. Settings -> Printer -> Manage Printers

The board that sits in the front of the printer is called the USB Ulticontroller board, the part number is 1994 and any of your local resellers should be able to get that for you.

You're going to have to decrease the layer thickness or (probably preferable) see if you can change the orientation of the part to not have such a shallow angle on that top surface.

Information regarding network requirements can be found here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667337958118

The boards are the same, but they need to be "provisioned" so that they know which type of printer they are installed in. Instructions for that can be found here: https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1667410987665

Sorry I've been out all day (relative celebrating his 50th) and saw the tag by @gr5 now, but looks like you got it sorted out. These days we don't take these apart when replacing belts for customers, we use pre-assembled kits instead, saves a lot of time and the cost is not high enough to justify the extra time it takes (while risking cracking the block and having to replace it anyway). As for which is better or worse. All sliding blocks can crack if you're unlucky I'd say, but the latest ones, the ones you have, that are white and have internal tabs seem to be very robust. The first white blocks (with external tabs) that came out for the UM3 were pretty bad, lots of cracked blocks there. They got replaced by black ones that fared much better but these were then replaced again by the new white ones. It's a bit of a mess as far as part numbers go there 😄

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you either I'm afraid. Honestly I haven't used the template in many years. I just count from the center to the closest match, be it positive or negative. Usually you end up with an offset +-6 or so at most in my experience. I haven't really put more thought into it than that as I haven't had a reason to as it has never been a problem (I've printed plenty without doing any calibration as well for that matter). As gr5 mentions, the PDF doesn't perfectly match up to the actual printed pattern, something that I've gotten a few calls about as well, so you can't use that to measure.