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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Didier, it's an ultimaker 1. Going to 260c will melt the PEEK and kill the hotend. Also, I tried cold-pulling, and it could not get it to work, it always snapped the filament. Maybe this is a symptom of the same problem ?
  2. The print speed was 50, which I would not call fast. Temp was 220. These settings worked well up until recently. I tried turning off retraction and got the same result. I only took off the nozzle, did not take apart the hotend. I guess it's time to do that.
  3. It's an Ultimaker 1, with the extruder and hotend upgrade. It was working ok for a long time, and recently started this strange problem. I'm not if it's a hardware or software issue. The first layers are always perfect, and then the print becomes spongy, as if extrusion rate is way too low, or the hotend is jammed. But if I restart the print, than once again the first layers are perfect. Here is a picture. Left is 30% fill, middle is 80%, right is %100. Notice that the right one is perfect, and rest first 10 layers are also good. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ex4wu15ihrqnuwd/IMG_20141204_214617
  4. And then what ? What am I looking for ?
  5. Hi All, I noticed this in the latest Cura (14.01) that I see the print head hopping around and placing random dots along the outer shell. See it hopping in this video (I have z-hop plugin, but this is not caused by the plugin, the same happens without it) This is a complex part, but it also happens in much simpler shapes. I had to stop using Cura for now, as this hopping behavior messes up the print. Any ideas ? Thanks. PS. I printed the same object with Slic3r and it printed fine.
  6. I have the same problem, but only on one of my laptops. Using the latest version 13.11. This has something to do with the graphics card.
  7. Is there a way to make the plugin setup permanent ? I use TweakAtZ to make the first layer hotter so it would stick better, this works very well but I have to add and config the plugin for every object I want to print. Also, is there a plugin that moves the head up when retracting ? Best, HP
  8. Hi, I'm having problems printing large items. Smaller things work well, but when items are big I get huge shifting mid-print (up to 2cm shift on some occasions). Some times several shifts happen during one print, with just a few layers in between shifts. I have no idea where this is coming from. The belts are nice and tight. Any ideas how to find the source of this problem ?
  9. Thanks everyone. I'm going to find some 6" tape and alcohol and try it.
  10. Hi, I'm printing some large flat PLA parts, and they warp noticeably at the corners. I'm using Cura at 0.1mm, 210c, 70mms and with Brim. Printing on green painter tape applied on the original acrylic bed. The part will warp and lift the tape with it. Any ideas ? Will blue painters tape work better ? I tried printing at 200c, but I get jams so I suspect that the real temperature is actually lower than what the thermsistor is reporting. I have an IR temp gun, which reports 150c when I set the hotend to 220c. I don't think that reading is correct though. How do I calibrate or measure
  11. Hi, I run my ultimaker usually at 50mms. After a long print the steppers can get really hot, between 50 and 60c. Is this normal ? Can I fix this ? Thanks.
  12. I wish I could, it would cost me more than what it's worth.
  13. Hey everyone. I bought some PLA reels from MatterHackers, and one of them (Light Blue) is between 2.95 and 3.00mm width (the others are 2.85). This filament will jam in the bowden tube to such extent, that I have to disconnect it from both sides and pull out the filament with pliers. Do I need a new tube ? Is 2.95mm within acceptable range for PLA filament ? Thanks.
  14. I cleaned the nozzle one final time, got new PLA filament, and installed a fan to cool the PEEK part of the hotend. Now it works flawlessly. Thanks everyone for your help.
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