peter-parnes
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Posts posted by peter-parnes
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Thank you both. That was really simple
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I am having trouble getting my Y-axels moving back and forth on one of my UM2s. Here is a short movie showing it "in action":
Anybody have any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
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I found that it smells badly at lower temps as well?!
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After some experimenting, I got the best result with
260 degrees on the head.
100 degrees on the bed.
Fan 50%
95% flow
Pretty ok but it smells too much
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Thanks!!!
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Hi, I have never really printed anything seriously with ABS on my UM2 until now (PLA not durable enough for my current model) and I am having some issues getting it to print nicely.
The settings I have currently settled on are:
260 degrees on the head.
90 degrees on the bed.
Fan 50%
95% flow.
I am printing with Ultimaker Red ABS.
What settings are you all printing ABS at?
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I find the UM2 to be very reliable. I have lugged it around on several fairs, lectures etc and it just works. The heated bed is awesome. The only thing I feel is a problem is that the smaller fans on the UM2 do not appear to cool as good on the bigger ones on the UM1.
If you can afford it, go for the UM2. If not then, the price of the UM1-kit is a very good deal right now.
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The early UM2s (mine included) had to thin screws that came loose. Ultimaker promised to send new thicker screws. Mine are yet to arrive (shipped??).
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Another example is this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:194505
Same settings but here I get a clear line in the side where it does layer change.
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Thanks! On this one they are quite dominant: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:198110%C2%A0
Printed with latest cura on Mac with default settings, 0.2layer height, 0% infill, 50mm/s, 0.6mm top and bottom, 0.8mm wall thickness, 220 degrees, 115% flow (I need 115% on all or else I do not get layered fully filled). Tried Ultimaker red, white and transparent PLA.
Also tested on UM1 and got the exact same result. Same settings as for UM2 but with 100% at 2.85 PLA width with Ultimaker White PLA.
I think this has to do with the layer change.
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But that doesn't sound like it will change the anything about the bumps. Apparently they do not appear with Kisslicer so it must be a slicing issue. Anything that can be fixed in Cura to resolve this?
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Regarding bumps and Cura, I have now tested 13.11, 13.10 and 13.6.5 and I get bumps with all of them on my UM1. Hmmm
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Thank you for the settings!! Is it too much to ask for your UM1 settings as well?
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I can confirm that this is a Cura problem as I get the same "STD bumps" on both UM1 and UM2. I wonder, in which version they started to appear because they were not there 1-2 months ago.
Robert, do you have a profile I can try for KISSlicer?
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The frog is sliced with the latest Cura on but on that particular print there was actually less dots. I will do another test
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Hi
I have now been printing for a while on my UM2 and I just cannot get it to print with the same quality as my "old" UM1.
I am getting dots in the prints and other artifacts as well. The surfaces are not as smooth when printed on the UM2 vs UM1. I have done some comparison prints using the same PLA-roll, same ambient temperature, slicing latest Cura etc.
Here are some examples:
Left: UM2 and right: UM1. Clear artifacts in the back. Much smoother on the UM1 print.
Dots clearly visible.
More dots.
Any ideas on how to get rid of the dots?
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I am very curious on what issues there are with the current UM2 manufacturing. Is it missing/broken parts or is the design of the machine being changed somehow?
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Thanks. This is with brand new ultimaker PLA. I will do some test with older PLA as well and perhaps t-glass.
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Hi again.... after some more printing and testing I have made good progress on some smaller object but I still get a lot of warping on bigger objects. Objects that printed fine on a blue-tape-UM1. I am printing in room temperature 75 degrees on the print bed. I do increase the flow to 115% on most prints. I have tried leveling the bed several times. The wrench in the first three images is printed on a washed glass bed with a fresh layer of glue.
Here are some pictures:
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All good questions
As the UM2 is brand new, I am printing with default settings and with brand new Ultimaker PLA.
E.g. the Ultimaker robot is standard size warps 3-4 mm in each corner.
I will post pictures later.
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I have now made about 10 prints on my UM2 and almost all have warping. Way more warping than on my UM1. I thought the heated bed would reduce the warping, not increase it? Any suggestions on what the best temperature of the heated bed is?
Ps. For those wondering I can say that printing directly without having to fiddle with the blue tape is wonderful!!!!
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Woohoo! Uploaded the UM2-firmware again and now it works. The first time I guess Cura managed to upload a few % of the firmware before the machine reset by some power surge. I am pretty sure I uploaded the UM2 firmware the first time as well as Cura still was stuck in "Firmware install for Ultimaker2".
Now I just have to put back all the screws again
Thank you for the tip gr5!
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Anybody know how to remove the vertical high cover at the back left ?
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OK. Some progress. There is a green light on the electronics board turning on and now the fan on the print head starts but the control panel is dead. What next....
Broken UM2? - please help :)
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi
One of my UM2s just doesn't want to print correctly. Please see the following pictures of the classical Stretchlet which do not exactly look good.
I have tried everything I can think of. Re-slicing, changing PLA, adjusted the feeder, played around with temperature, reduced the fan speed, etc. Even did a factory reset but still no luck.
I have printed more than hundred of these without any issue earlier.
Anybody have any thoughts on what can be wrong?
Ps. The machine is about 3 months old.