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  1. Hi! I spent a lot of time designing that mount and, honestly, i expected more for e3d hot end. About the mount. left fun needs to be revised to increase the distance from the heater block. I use ultimaker heater cartridge and as it's bigger than the block the fan is too close and it melts a bit. I would like to modify the fan duct so it has variable high, i feel it would be better closer to the print, i can not with my configuration, also the e3d nozzle is very small so i couldn't put the duct closer. As zoev89 i notice with more than 50% fan speed the temperature become unestable. I wouldn
  2. I update size of fan mounts, the old one was too close to the heater block. Solidworks file on youmagine.
  3. I didn't find significant improvements even with 2.85
  4. Are you from E3D crew? If don't i don't undestand so many compliments. E3D is fine, but is not as marvelous as you said. First of all there are not many mounts for ultimaker and you should deal with the existing ones or design one your self. I choose the second option, it's a long long way and still improving it. I have not been printing too much with E3D cause of the holidays, i still have to test retraction. What i can say by the moment is, for ABS it seems to be great, but not too much difference with the original hot end with the mods i'd done (add a cooler for the PTFE and drill the n
  5. There's several ways to compile/upload firmware to your ultimaker. you can either get the hex file and upload with cura or use arduino sofware to compile and upload to the board (i don't know if you need to disconect arduino mega from the main board, i never used this option) There's few explaniations of how to compile and get hex file in http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4347-how-to-compile-marlin-firmware/ thread, i think the online option is the easiest one.
  6. With a termistor it shows MAX_TEMP error when there's no signal from it. So you should revise all cable conections from the termistor to the board. With thermocouple you get MINTEMP error when there's no signal, again, i think you have a connection problem in some cable. If you still have connected the termistor without 4k7 in R23 (as it seems in the pic) it won't work any way. So you MUST have 4k7 resistor in R23 if you want to use termistor, if you don't have you should use thermocouple. I don't understand why you couldn't upload the modified firmware. You should do it without problem wit
  7. It's very important but not catastrophic if you don't do. PID constants (determined by pid auto tuning) adjust the way the function corrects the deviation of the temperature done. If you tune the constants the temperature will become more stable, and this is important! It's a simple process, there's no reason to don't do it. Just send "M303 E0 S200 C8" to the printer, you can do that very easy with printrun (mac, for windows i don't remember the name) the soft give you the constants and you can change them within "temperature" menu in LCD display. Important and easy to do it.
  8. Same problems i found, for this reason i decided to design all the mount. I can upload the solidworks file. Nick's file help me a lot with the process, to do it little bit faster. Which software are you using?
  9. It isn't like this exactly. The hotend doesn't touch the endstops, XY blocks do, but linear bearing fix the position of XY blocks. In original hot end linear bearings are in perfect cross, in nick's, jonny's and mine design are not. This is very important. The nozzle is out of its original place and the block doesn't touch the endstops cause the bearing do it first. It's far away from touching it!! If you look ultimaker from the top the axes make one kross. In jonny's design the hot end could be on the first or on the third quarter (in ultimaker original is on the fourth) that means the noz
  10. They aren't symetrical because the ultimaker heater cartridge is longer than e3d heater block so i decided to use the space between both fans to place the heater (that means the heater cartridge is perpendicular to the 30mm fan) and in this position the heater block is not symetrical. I will put some pictures today. Is first attemp so sure will be some mods...
  11. Hi! I printed, mounted and used it jonnybischof design (thasnks for that and for your awsome documentation!). It's really nice and it works grate, however i find some inconveniences for my purposes. First, i wanted to use a thermocouple instead a termistor with e3d heater block. This is posible if you take out the metal encapsulate from the original thermocouple. You will get two cables with ceramic end, if you take out also the ceramic you'll get a small metal ball, this is the thermocouple in fact. Is posible to use it in the same way than the termistor. Also i print mostly in ABS and i l
  12. Hi! Sorry i didn't mean to use ultimaker heater block ( i supposed it was not going to work) but um heater cartridge in e3d heater block.
  13. Wow!!! Thanks a lot Jonny. I just received mine yesterday i was wondering to expend few hours/days to get it working. You save me a lot of time!!!! I will print it tomorrow. Just few questions: Is XT stronger than ABS? I print almost exclusively ABS with a heated chamber (i print with bed at 90º and chamber at 60) and i have no warping at all, even with big boxes (185x185) i use to print. But the closed chamber limits the fan duct size. Does it go out from the printer wall? I will use the ultimaker heater with e3d heater block, so the heater is bigger that the e3d one so maybe it touch t
  14. Respecto al filamento lo que puedo decir es que la UM1 es bastante puñetera en cuanto al diámetro, al principio tuve muchos problemas de extrusión, capas con "underextrusion" constantemente, me volví loco. Compré filamento de iGo3d y tengo un rollo de pla inutilizable, con abs prácticamente imposible que saliera una pieza entera bien. Econtré una web alemana, reprapsource.com que tienen filamento de 2.85 y compré varios rollos (ABS), es caro (24€, 750gr) pero va fenomenal y desde entonces todo va como la seda, jamás he vuelto a tener "underextrusion"he impreso piezas muy grandes (185x185x150)
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