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  1. Hi! I spent a lot of time designing that mount and, honestly, i expected more for e3d hot end. About the mount. left fun needs to be revised to increase the distance from the heater block. I use ultimaker heater cartridge and as it's bigger than the block the fan is too close and it melts a bit. I would like to modify the fan duct so it has variable high, i feel it would be better closer to the print, i can not with my configuration, also the e3d nozzle is very small so i couldn't put the duct closer. As zoev89 i notice with more than 50% fan speed the temperature become unestable. I wouldn't spend much more time in that mount, i think i uploaded About the print quality, i expected to increase the speed for the prints at the same quality or the quality at the same speed but, in my case, i didn't feel like it's better. I print abs (between 250-265º) so i decided to change to e3d but i didn't get any really good improvement. I used befor ultimaker hot end with some mods, as an aluminium cooler in the peek and in the aluminium part in the hot end, it worked very nice, i also drilled the nozzle to 0.7 I wanted to print with 0.8 nozzle and 0.3 layers (i printed 0,3 layers with the old hot end) but I have to say i get stronger parts and betters results with my old modified hot end. I didn't try with pla As a good point i have to say i have a nozzle set to change when i need... I printed parts at 275º without problems. Well, i also have to say i have not spend half time with this mount as i did with the original, maybe for that i'm disappointed with e3d, i expect to change the mount and get better results but you have to spend hundred hours and some material kg to get good results any way. I recommend to modify the original hot end and not to buy another until that is totally damage. I guess maybe there's some problem with modified original at higher temperatures (i used just at 270) and i'm sure there's no problem with e3d even at 300º or more. Has anyone tryed other materials like nylon or polycarbonate?
  2. I update size of fan mounts, the old one was too close to the heater block. Solidworks file on youmagine.
  3. I didn't find significant improvements even with 2.85
  4. Are you from E3D crew? If don't i don't undestand so many compliments. E3D is fine, but is not as marvelous as you said. First of all there are not many mounts for ultimaker and you should deal with the existing ones or design one your self. I choose the second option, it's a long long way and still improving it. I have not been printing too much with E3D cause of the holidays, i still have to test retraction. What i can say by the moment is, for ABS it seems to be great, but not too much difference with the original hot end with the mods i'd done (add a cooler for the PTFE and drill the nozzle to 0.7) That hot end worked great and not very different. the fact is with original hot end i could only print 2.85 filament cause 3.00 (2.95 mostly) clog. I expected to print with 3.0 filament with e3d so i could get from a distributor in my city but i'm not shure it works as good as i expected. Printing PLA is a hell, i try 3.0 filament (i had not problem with original hot end) and i couldn't finish one print. It clogs constantly in the cooler block in e3d. I have not experiment with retraction yet. I spend many time designing the hot end mount and testing and sincerly i expected more improvements from stock (mod) hot end I don't recommend this hot end unless you want to print in ABS mostly and don't want to modify the stock hot end. There aren't big difference between this one and the original one if you add a cooler to the ptfe... I'm still testing it and i will put my impressions with retraction and more pla but i'm asking myself if this was a good investment... i would like to compare with UBIS or othe hot ends.
  5. There's several ways to compile/upload firmware to your ultimaker. you can either get the hex file and upload with cura or use arduino sofware to compile and upload to the board (i don't know if you need to disconect arduino mega from the main board, i never used this option) There's few explaniations of how to compile and get hex file in http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4347-how-to-compile-marlin-firmware/ thread, i think the online option is the easiest one.
  6. With a termistor it shows MAX_TEMP error when there's no signal from it. So you should revise all cable conections from the termistor to the board. With thermocouple you get MINTEMP error when there's no signal, again, i think you have a connection problem in some cable. If you still have connected the termistor without 4k7 in R23 (as it seems in the pic) it won't work any way. So you MUST have 4k7 resistor in R23 if you want to use termistor, if you don't have you should use thermocouple. I don't understand why you couldn't upload the modified firmware. You should do it without problem without disconnect the arduino board. Did you compile via internet with this marlin builder or did you modified configuration.h by your self? You should revise all your cable connections... It seams there's some unconection somewhere... So, if you want to use thermistor sold again 4k7 resistor in R23 and revise all cable conections, modified the firmware and upload with "install custom firmware" in cura If you take out the resistor and upload original firmware you should connect thermocouple again.
  7. It's very important but not catastrophic if you don't do. PID constants (determined by pid auto tuning) adjust the way the function corrects the deviation of the temperature done. If you tune the constants the temperature will become more stable, and this is important! It's a simple process, there's no reason to don't do it. Just send "M303 E0 S200 C8" to the printer, you can do that very easy with printrun (mac, for windows i don't remember the name) the soft give you the constants and you can change them within "temperature" menu in LCD display. Important and easy to do it.
  8. Same problems i found, for this reason i decided to design all the mount. I can upload the solidworks file. Nick's file help me a lot with the process, to do it little bit faster. Which software are you using?
  9. It isn't like this exactly. The hotend doesn't touch the endstops, XY blocks do, but linear bearing fix the position of XY blocks. In original hot end linear bearings are in perfect cross, in nick's, jonny's and mine design are not. This is very important. The nozzle is out of its original place and the block doesn't touch the endstops cause the bearing do it first. It's far away from touching it!! If you look ultimaker from the top the axes make one kross. In jonny's design the hot end could be on the first or on the third quarter (in ultimaker original is on the fourth) that means the nozzle never could have the same position in the bed, so you need adjust the xy endstops and do the printable space smaller or move the bed. I put the hot end in the fourth quarter and even is not in the same position as original is not far away. Even that you must adjust the XY endstops changing the trigger position in the XY blocks. I use ones designed by alan89, in that xy block the endstop trigger is glue so you can set whatever you want. I'm going to design new triggers for this mount and upload to youmagine. I don't know if i've explained my self good enough :???: ...
  10. They aren't symetrical because the ultimaker heater cartridge is longer than e3d heater block so i decided to use the space between both fans to place the heater (that means the heater cartridge is perpendicular to the 30mm fan) and in this position the heater block is not symetrical. I will put some pictures today. Is first attemp so sure will be some mods...
  11. Hi! I printed, mounted and used it jonnybischof design (thasnks for that and for your awsome documentation!). It's really nice and it works grate, however i find some inconveniences for my purposes. First, i wanted to use a thermocouple instead a termistor with e3d heater block. This is posible if you take out the metal encapsulate from the original thermocouple. You will get two cables with ceramic end, if you take out also the ceramic you'll get a small metal ball, this is the thermocouple in fact. Is posible to use it in the same way than the termistor. Also i print mostly in ABS and i like to use the fan at 40-50% (it improve a lot the prints quality) i have a custom heated bed with glass and clip to hold the glass. Nick's fan duct is grate but it's to close to the bed and it touch the clips. You won't have this problems if you use the original cold bed or other kind of bed. So i've made another design for the E3d v6 hot end. It's integrated (it have the 30mm fan duct integrated, easy to print. It have holes for the thermocouple transmiter and dual fan duct for 40 mm fans. The fans are 4mm from the bed so do not touch the clips. I've designed it to use with ultimaker heater cartridge but e3d heater block. You just have to order metal parts and 30mm fan to mount it. It's still under testing, just mounted it and do it some small prints. I have to test it with long prints, the fanducts are really close to the heater block so maybe them melt. I'm still testing it. Just uploaded to youmagine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount. I will add some pictures tomorrow. All suggestions are welcome.
  12. Hi! Sorry i didn't mean to use ultimaker heater block ( i supposed it was not going to work) but um heater cartridge in e3d heater block.
  13. Wow!!! Thanks a lot Jonny. I just received mine yesterday i was wondering to expend few hours/days to get it working. You save me a lot of time!!!! I will print it tomorrow. Just few questions: Is XT stronger than ABS? I print almost exclusively ABS with a heated chamber (i print with bed at 90º and chamber at 60) and i have no warping at all, even with big boxes (185x185) i use to print. But the closed chamber limits the fan duct size. Does it go out from the printer wall? I will use the ultimaker heater with e3d heater block, so the heater is bigger that the e3d one so maybe it touch the fan duct... I mean to redesign fan duct before printing or not. Thanks again. You've done very god job.
  14. r4ix

    Ultimaker España

    Respecto al filamento lo que puedo decir es que la UM1 es bastante puñetera en cuanto al diámetro, al principio tuve muchos problemas de extrusión, capas con "underextrusion" constantemente, me volví loco. Compré filamento de iGo3d y tengo un rollo de pla inutilizable, con abs prácticamente imposible que saliera una pieza entera bien. Econtré una web alemana, reprapsource.com que tienen filamento de 2.85 y compré varios rollos (ABS), es caro (24€, 750gr) pero va fenomenal y desde entonces todo va como la seda, jamás he vuelto a tener "underextrusion"he impreso piezas muy grandes (185x185x150) sin problemas, bueno, otros problemas pero no de extrusión. He vuelto a probar con filamento 3mm, los mismos problemas. Recientemente he visto en esta misma web que han añadido ABS con más colores y más barato (1kg en cada bobina) pero no lo he probado, teóricamente es también de 2.85+-0.1 mm pero me da a mi que es chino (el otro es aleman) y en lo que a homogeneidad del diámetro del hilo se refiere me fío más de los alemanes que de los chinos... Repito, no conozco el hot end (cabezal) de la UM2, pero en mi caso todos los problemas de extrusión estaban relacionados con el diámetro del filamento. Saludos.
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