takei-naodar
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Posts posted by takei-naodar
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The reviews on glassdoor just reaffirm my constant belief that american companies just tend to sacrifice everything and everyone to meet a 3 month goal and in that process lose a good portion of market share.
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Bed is not leveled correctly.... nozzle is to close to the bed.
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30mm/s and i think 0.12 or 16mm layer height..... would have to look into the gcode again
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Ok Overhang test is finished. On the left we have the 70° angle going down in steps of 5° toward the right.
Settings were 210° 55° 100 percent fan
You can see the head was moving to the right where the material was not cooled right since the
Head moved away to fast.
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I am currently doing a real overhang test, since i never could get higher than maybe 2mm without the test detaching from the buildplate. In its fracture behaviour it behaves much like ABS but with the layer adhesion of PLA. Stringing is so far as i have found not a real Problem as is oozing from the nozzle.
In terms of Printing speed it can be handled like PLA.
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OK Guys print is done.... the PLA-HT still sticks quite stongly to the 3dlac even after it has cooled down and gives a very glossy finish on the bottom. Over all i am still quite happy with the results.
@Offtopic
I am personally using a hand modified Zetoff Fanshroud. I think it does its job quite well. Naturally printed in PLA-HT
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Ok Guys.... PLA-HT is now my new favorite Material in terms of properties. I can now confirm that it sticks with 3dlac very very well. Better than even normal PLA with the standard Gluestick. I am just printing my first print with it though and the used bed temp is 70°. Will post later how well the prints get off the buildplate after it has cooled down. The Print will take about 8h.
@Sander You guys should maybe consider taking this stuff into your portfolio. Both the HT and the 3dlac of course.
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I expected better from you guys, you should be able to tell from that photo if it's dual or not.
From the Photo i can just tell that there is just 1 bowden so it would be quite a wonder if there would be a second extruder.
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Hmmm if you allready had occasional skipping it could well be that the filament had deformed while the printer was unused.
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If the pressure is to low you will get slipping marks as in your picture because the grip will not be strong enough. If the pressure is to high the filament can be deformed or you will get the motor skipping back all the time.
But i have to remark it has been long since i used the original Feeder... i now use mine with a MK8.
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Well Solid you should look at PLA-HT then.... practicaly combines the good of PLA with the good of ABS.... with only one downside.... printbed adhesion.... but i am sure i will have the solution in the next week or so. Atleast i hope so..... if i am able to overcome this problem this is a practically flawless material.
@TE
you should maybe take a look at the so called Smart ABS... never had that material but it is supposed to have a smaller shrinkage which would hopefully enable you to allow 100% fanspeed without letting the Print crack.
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Thx.... happy to hear i did not order some wrong advertising..... sad that you dont have some PLA-HT to test adhesion with it... well.... will probably be the first one to test
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Well cou could always use the Gluestick with a Bedtemp of 80 degrees..... thing is you will have to apply it when the bed is warm and immediatly start the print...... sticks well then
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Oh, that sounds very good Takei ... overhangs should then probably succeed much better, I think. Whether you might find the time to print the little UM Robot?
Here you go.....
Settings were 205° 80° 0.12 30mm/s
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Please keep us informed how the suggested blue tape covered bed works - my f****g self built bed can't reach more than 70 degree and I'd like to order some too. But that would be senseless if 95 degree are required for bed adhesion...
I allready tested with 100° now.... adhesion still sucks
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Well i did not and i dont think that would make any sense since the shrinkage is quite small.
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Welcome to the club mnis.... maybe you can find out the correct settings to get generally good bed adhesion
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It becomes a bit like caly yes but stiffer. I personally would assume that the teacup would work.... allthough i would not do that. I am not sure that it is food safe.... whatever the manufacturer says.
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So..... i just ran some more tests.....
never reached 10mm³/s this time but that was never the intent.
This first Test which is on the left in the pic above was done with 192°C. Click at 8mm³.... and then lost adhesion with the printbed -.- It was started with 215 degrees for the first layer and a bed temp of 85°
EDIT: I also ripped this test apart a bit because i wanted to test how strong the adhesion between layers is. Even with 192° the layers still bond quite well.
this test was done with 200° started to skipp at 9mm³. 230° first layer and 85° bed. It had a decent adhesion to the printbed. Not a very strong one but decent.
So i think it is safe to say a decent Print temperature for PLA-HT is in a range of 190-215 degrees while printing. Still.... the bed adhesion is posing a little bit problematic when the glue is not absolutely fresh. I am going to test it out fourther with 95°C bed temp if it is better then. It seems that the PLA-HT has a hard time to fuse with either the Gluestick or the Woodglue i tried. Both normally do quite a good job with normal PLA.
@ Anon i tested it out with 100° and i would say it looses about ~50% of its strength. Only did a quicktest though. That is something that is quite hard to test on the go...
Edit:
NExt in line is a Overhang test with 95°C bed temp... well lets see if the bed adhesion is better then.
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OK i got my shippment of that material and i have to say..... its quite interesting...... i still have some problems with printbed adhesion, but it is still a very nice material to Print with. In its Properties it is quite similar to ABS, featuring quite a high temperature limit..... while having quite a low transition temperature difference. Meaning that the temperature difference between where it is more or less solid and where it is printable is quite low.... i am still testing how low in terms of temps i can go, but i was able to do 10mm³/s at 210°C.... which is quite remarkable.
My Current standard temps with that material are 220°C and 85°C. The Nozzle temp is that high to improve bed adhestion.
And when the bed cools down after a print.... the printed part just pops off normally.
I am currently running a test with 192°C ... so lets see how it goes..... will let you guys know.
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Well you could test out my "old"Feeder Design.... havent needed to work on it for months.... not even needed to replace it on my machine. It is basically a mule.... does not look good but does the job great.
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OMG you are right..... they will have the most flawless prints up there. Not.... Bridging yes but not overhangs.
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Just sliced this model in RC3. Top and Bottom Infill are not working or atleast not diplayed
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/90634021/02-castle.stl
Also the model has various overlapps. I think it is perfect for you Daid ;D
In14.12 Infill is working
Edit: Ah i just saw you made a change to how infill i shown.... sadly that 1 line is not fattened and is overlapped by the shell lines
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Silver metallic Lennart. its quite hard to get through the nozzle in a very fast manner but is generally the best of their materials for high quality prints afaik
Ultimaker 2 - What are your favorite (printable) upgrades? List included.
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
@CCW: Ehm you forgot my Spool and Feeder holder
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spool-and-feederholder