championjc

the voltages read correctly with the jumper in place. and as i stated above when its off.

still no movement from the x and y axis. the z axis however twitches if i try to move it. it basically moves forward then back to the original position half the time.

so i checked the voltages and got 3.3 on the 3.3, 3.81 on the 5, and 3.36 on VIN. it also seems like one of my steppers shorted when the safety on the power supply popped. if i plug it in the UMcontroller screen dims and just on usb power it gets hot to the touch. i have the dual extruder so i just removed the bad one and swapped the second extruder stepper into that slot.

i pulled the jumper for the arduino power and now it lets me heat to set temp with no problems. i set it to print from sd and it reached print temp said heating done and the UMcontroller showed the x and y changing but the print head wasn't moving. i unplugged everything like you said above. went into CURA and could not get it to connect to the printer. there were no errors it went from opening serial port to connecting to closed. so i installed a custom firmware and was able to connect and control the extruder temp. but could not get any movement out of it. so i reconnected everything and popped the internal breaker in the power supply. for now i'm just going to set it aside till i don't feel like throwing it out the window... any ideas on why the motors don't work?

yes they replaced the arduino first thing because it was dead out of the box. my UMcontroller shows 13.12. i cannot. i will set an increment for it to move and nothing will happen.

hey guys i've been working with the UM people for almost a year on my machine. i've gotten replacement parts for nearly everything but the main board and still no luck getting it working. so i've got a couple of questions. what is the current firmware displayed on the machine with the latest CURA update? what could be causing my machine to not stop at the preset temp when heating the head for a print? should i be able to move the print head via the UMcontroller? basically the problem i'm having is the printer will heat up to 220 then bounce between 220 and hotter temps until it resets no max temp error. or if there is it resets the moment it hits. setting the temp to 200 it seems like it tries to keep it at the right temp but it eventually gives a max temp error. i've also never seen the print head move.

yes the screen blanks and the UM reboots.

ok so i only get max temp on start up. a power cycle or two clears it. moving the print head around while its warming the extruder head does nothing. it continues to warm. i can't get a connection to the printer from my computer once i flip the power switch. loading gcode from the sd card it goes through the heating process and then resets when it gets to the set temperature.

i got through the first run wizard after changing to a custom firmware with a 115200 baud rate. then it stopped connecting to the computer again. i have yet to get any movement from any of the motors. so i am fairly flustered with this. i'd be happy to just print via SD card but i can't seem to get that to work either. it either gives me a max temp error or resets.

it went through the heating process then reset.

no i threw the arduino on the moment i got it. i had no problem updating the firmware. i've got the ulticontroller connected i can scroll through all the settings. so far i can connect to the arduino board but the moment i turn the power on i lose connection. the voltage regulator at IC1 reads 19 and 12 volts as it should.

alright so i got the new arduino board and hooked it up. i can connect to it as long as its turned off. once i turn it on i lose connection. any theories as to why this happens?

yeah sorry was thinking about my extrusion bot its got a 3mm head on it.

the stock nozzle on the ultimaker original. the most inner edge.

I have the same 3mm nozzle on both heads. i just thought about running different layer heights between the two to get good detail on the visible part of the object but quick infill times. as well as using natural color pla for the infill rather than using up colored pla filament.