tomaszklos

Layer 0.1 Shell 1.2 tob/bottom layer 1.2 fill 20% print speed 30mm/s platform brim initial layer 0.2 travel speed 250mm/s bottom layer 30 mm/s infill speed 0.0 minimal layer time 5 sec

I do have the layer of 0.1

I have used the same settings that on the test cubes (the last one)

Oh my... 8 hours print... Well its on now... Its printing and surprisingly its printing ok now... I will let it run over night and I will let you guys know tomorrow morning with results and pictures...to be continued...

Challenge accepted gr5...If you will not hear from me that means I failed hahaha... just kidding I will let you know soon...thanks for the site thingiverse...

Any suggestions? Maybe you have something I could print next???

Nice...I'm glad to hear that. I'm doing another one without any adjustments to see if I can get the same results. If I do, then I will try different object. Maybe cylinder or a triangle.

Ok here is the result. Looks good. From the close up looks like the bottom and top surface are more dense (layers are less visible). What do you guys think of this result???

Good morning. Another day of trials. This time I will adjust the top/bottom layer to 1.2 the same as the walls. Print speed and bottom layer speed I will put to 30mm/s and the travel speed @250mm/s also added back the brim layer. So let see how this one will look. Since I want to keep the settings of the head temp @ 230 and bed temp @ 60 is there a way to set these permanently, instead of changing in on the fly?

Stupid question. Is there a way to eliminate the initial discharge of the PLA right before it starts to print? Sometimes that material get stuck either to the head or to the plate and sometimes its in the way of the printing???

Ok. I adjusted all the speeds to 30mm/s (print speed, travel speed and bottom layer speed). It a disaster hahaha. Missed the whole bottom surface ( looks like i might have the build plate too close) It started printing the infill on the glass itself. Then the infill and the walls started looking really really bad...

I'm thinking maybe should i make my shell thickness bigger than 0.8mm??? this way it will have more material to cover the top and the bubbles will not form?

Ok another test done. I adjusted the plate closer. That helped getting the right base. I kept all the same settings except I change the fans to come on to full speed at 5mm and what I noticed that the bottom of the corners still look a little caved it towards inside of the cube. Not as much as the first test, but much more than the second test. Also what i noticed that the top surface has few spots that look like surface is bubbling???

Another question. If I want to make the print more precise in quality I will have to go down on the layer thickness correct? Can I keep the rest of the settings the same? For example if I want to print this cube using layer thickness of 0.06 instead of 0.1

Ok great. Note taken I will reset the fan settings to the original value. After I removed the cube I noticed that the bottom layer wasn't melted enough together ( you can see individual lines) that is probably because the fans were on all the time from the start. My question is would not having the fans on on the bottom will cause the corners to cave in? I guess I will just try... Thats what this is all about trial and error. Other than that how does this cube look to you?

Ok. So after changing some settings this is the result. Settings changed: Temp to 230 C Plate temp to 60 C Retract length to 5.5mm Retract speed to 35mm/s Bottom layer to 0.2mm and I also changed in Cura that the fans turn to full speed at plane 0 (so the fans are 100% all the time) Looks much better. The corners are straight all the way from the bottom. My brim base looks much thicker too. Is it because the bottom layer was made thicker? Also how about the fans? Should I have them on 100% all the time from the plane 0? Thanks.

Morning guys. Yes the brim looks "disconected" from the actual part due to the feeder stopped to feed the PLA right at the beginning of making the part. I had to manually (by hand) force feed the PLA for the printer to start printing. Normally the brim gets all the way to the part (so I'm not too worried about that). I'm going to adjust the settings a little bit (according to you guys) and do the same cube today. Will post the results as well.....thanks.

Thanks guys. I understand that this is not an easy work and I appreciate any word of wisdom from any of you. I'm definitely want to understand this technology and I'm willing to learn and put my time into it. Maybe in the future I will be able to help fellow 3D printing newbie. :mrgreen:

Ok. So lets start simple. I created a simple 25mm cube in google sketch. Then exported it into gcode file. Using Cura I saved it on the sd card. Did the factory reset of the Ultimaker (just to start fresh) leveled the buildplate and here we go... Specs: Ultimaker 2 Version: 14.01.2 Jan 10 2014 13:20:34 Material: PLA 2.85 Ultimate Blue Retraction settings: Retract lenght: 4.50mm Retract Speed: 25mm/sec Motion Settings: Acceleration: 5000mm/sec^2 X/Y Jerk: 20mm/sec Max Speed X: 300mm/sec Max Speed Y: 300mm/sec Max Speed Z: 40mm/sec Cura - 14.01 Basic: Quality: Layer height: 0.1mm Shell thickness: 0.8mm Enable retraction: Yes Fill: Bottom/Top thickness: 0.6mm Fill density: 15% Speed and Temperature: Print speed: 50mm/s Support: Support type: None Platform adhesion type: Brim Advanced: Machine: Nozzle size: 0.4mm Quality: Initial layer thicknes: 0.1mm Cut off object bottom: 0.0mm Dual extrusion overlap: 0.15mm Speed: Travel speed: 40.0mm/s Bottom layer speed: 40.0mm/s Infill speed: 0.0mm/s Cool: Minimal layer time: 5sec Enable cooling fan: Yes Plugins: Pause at height Ultimaker 2 Tune settings: Speed: 100% Temperature: 210 C Buildplate temperature: 75 C Fan speed: Slow increase during the process... Material flow: 100% Retraction: 4.50mm @ 25mm/sec

Hello. I'm Tom. The company I work for just got a Ultimaker 2. I volunteer to be the one operating it. I took it home and started working with it. First prints were somewhere decent. By that I mean you can tell what it is but from close they dont look as good. I updated the firmware using CURA to Merlin firmware (one of the information I took from this forum). Now some of the prints look decent and some of them look great. For example the "stackable cup" that was loaded on the SD looks great. On the other hand the "Ultimaker robot" looks decent. The worst parts are where the printer starts to print away from the print. The layers separate and at the end look distorted. I started to playing with settings on the fly ( fan speed, temp for PLA 2.85, plate temp etc) Nothing seems to help it noticably. I really need some directions what to do to get a decent looking prints in overall. I'm new to this so please go easy on me. Thanks in advance.