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maik-jaehne's Achievements



  1. He there.... does anybody remember my complains about underextrusion and bad printing? I did not checked the forum for a while. maybe a solutions might was posted last month... (changing the extruder design does not work/help) I ordered a new nozzle, after it was available in the Ultimaker shop... I changed it (and the cold end and the tube, but they looked not so bad)... now my U2 prints in speeds I NEVER got before. 0,3mm Layer at 70mm/s is no problem anymore. AND I can run it at 230 degrees!! (before, see ald pictures, I hat problems to get 50mm/s with 250 degress with a 0,2mm Layer!) And I had several discussions with the Ulti Support, too. I think there are only 2 explains for: 1st: a not well installed heat element /temp. sensor 2nd. a bad nozzle or both issues in some ways combined... So Ultimaker support... sometimes you can trust your customers if they tell you: there is something wrong with the nozzle! Have a good Night
  2. Wow: Gcode 14.03: 5358KB Gcode 14.01: 1136KB same default settings, I´m going to send you the stl Daid.
  3. Ah discussion still runs.. Do you need a STL File or/and gcode? and in my case SD Card printing Maik
  4. I don´t think my little chess piece is so complex. and I used both cura versions with default settings just after install it. I did not any change, ok just the shell thinkness. I´ll try again... we´ll see.
  5. new feature: yes I understand, something off? I´d not change anything from the default settings (I think). as you might see in the (now fixed) album (compare Screenshots) Maik (but my ulti2 still move material back too far if I abort a print (a fixed issue from a firmware update in January) but still present issue at my machine - in sum: maybe my printer just does not like me ;o )
  6. Hi, I tried new Cura 14.03 but the slicing seems to has an error. It leads to nearly double the printing time! When printing the shells the head moves very slow (Slower than selected i.e. 50mm/s). Additionally the print head moves not smooth when printing the shell lines. In result printed lines looks a bit like a gear. Comparison of print time, while using same settings.
  7. I did a test with bed at 50 degrees. One run with Fan 100% at the 2nd Layer one with AutoFan. I can´t see much shrinking but the print with the manual fan looks slightly smoother at his first layers...
  8. Hi There, I still think this shrinking it is not an issue of bed temperature... but I´ll try. Cleaning is a good point. I read about citrus based cleaning stuff some where in the forum. Any store in Germany where to buy? We´re using Alcohol based cleaner usually. but during my print experience over 2 month now - I got very different results sometime PLA sticks well - sometimes not (even after cleaning, with the same stuff PLA as well as cleaning and printing with the same settings...strange)
  9. He we may use some special temp sensors suggesting we have a special PLA here... @mnis with some PLA I have to go above 60 degrees bed temp. to have a good print, especially with long time prints (more 1h) :/ and if I use the glue stick... it sticks sometimes so well - so I´m going to get new problems: getting tiny small objects off the bed without breaking it Maik
  10. yepp I think so too. Low PLA Roll is an issue for sure, also the low "entrance" ... but a good summery of "erratic" issues 2nd. mmh interesting I did not tested/investigated this up to now. But how to solve this? PreHeat the filament before the extruder to straighten it?
  11. Hi There, I figured out that with small objects the cooling fan does not start with full speed at the 2nd Layer...the result: printed objects has a shrinking problem just about the first 3-5 printed mm (high)... (right side/object in the picture) As far as I have seen this only happens with small Objects. If I print larger objects the fan run at the second printed layer. Maybe the voltage set is to low (3-7% fan speed seems to be to low to push the fans to work) Why does cura set this so different? Up to now I just uses the tune menu and put it manually to 100%. (see picture to see the difference, left is manually fan set)
  12. Sorry for the delay... but here we go. at first the picture with some numbers added. I used this test cylinder from illuminarti. (test start with 30mm/s and add 10mm/s each 10 mm, so final is 100mm/s) I did a change to my U2. It now runs with that new extruder. The clicking noise disappear. And the first prints suggested I can print faster now. But: a test run with different materials and the test cylinder did not make such a difference to the original extruder. Under extrusion appear again but without the well known "click" of the extruder. I tried the retraction test cylinder file... here the new extruder seems to have a significant influence. While prior the printing with retraction and Innofil material does not work - now it does - up to 40/50 mm/s (Before not with 30 mm/s) :
  13. Ah Cool Nico thanks a lot.. So here are my results of the above named speed test... (or as an other Ulti 1 User said... something is wrong with that machine... it is too weak!)
  14. that explains a lot... I expected something else :( Today I dis- and reassembled the extruder and the head to be sure there is no problem. I could not find anything... So I start with some speed test...(this test was posted in this discussion: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/ I used the 0.1 Layer without retraction Version) But with different filaments. I also pushed filament by hand if the extruder start slipping just to be sure It is not the holder or Filament curling issue. (It wasn´t) Interesting results: Ultimaker PLA runs best, at all speeds (but needs a temperature from 210 up to 230 degrees) Colorfabb (Olympic gold) starts well at 220 and might work until "full speed" 10mm3/s at 260 degrees InnoFil (Silver) works well but only at 230 degrees and 80% of 3mm3/s (so very slow) (at this case: increasing temperature does not help, manual push also not) FormFutura (White) starts working at 230 (3mm3/s) need to go up to 250 at 4mm3/s and stop working at 5 to 6 mm3/s Finally an last years igo3D orange start at 230, 4mm3/s runs at 240, but 5mm3/s at 250 does not work again... So as you can see very different results... I did not expect such differences... Nexts days I´d like to run some retraction or straight StickFilament tests. Maik (How can I add Photos here?)
  15. Hi there... read a bit around due to I´m fighting with my UM2 since 2 weeks, after stick-problems with printing the 1st layer on the glas (I solved with a temperature around 230-245 for PLA) I still have underextrusion. I run the test "Tube" posted in the forum. Retraction seems to be one issue (see picture/link: http://fablabdd.de/?attachment_id=170373905)... I tried several PLAs (ColorFab, FormFutura, InnoFil, Orign.Ultim.,...) but not a big difference. Prints are not free from holes etc. More or less often I can hear the extrusion "click". I put my hand on the PLA just before it enters the extruder to see if it is the "Roll" problem but it seems to be not. I fastened this extruder screw (ca. 2 lines down) this helped a bit but did not solve to problem total. As far as I understand there could be some burned PLA in the Nozzle/Print head but how to clean that? Also: it does not look like I have this teflon thing problem.I checked this after changing PLA. So any suggestions? At which speed are you printing? I thought 70-90mm/s with a 0,2 should be not a problem but up to now it is... only 0,1 with 50mm/s works (sometimes) well. Thanks, Maik
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