restinpieces
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Posts posted by restinpieces
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omg. I go an get a new pair of glasses now
I thought there were pdf files before... I literally searched half an hour for these files.Thank you very much!!
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I think I shorted my LEDs today :(No problem I thought. It's open source! Lets have a look at the schematic.
Well I found the schematic... behind a several thousand $$$ paywall. Its called Altium.
Does anyone have the ability to make a PDF out of the Altium files? That would really help me! (And probably some others, too)
The files are here:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1546%20ultimainboard%20V2.1.4
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Since I used my UM2 for the first time I always had the problem, that the bed started to oscillate.
Mainly on large prints with long straight runs. Some print could be recovered If I got it in time and turn the speed way down (50-60%). But a lot of prints where lost :(
Finally I got around to test an idea I had for a long time. I drilled holes in the aluminum plate and cut threads in the holes. Then I screwed some aluminum U-profiles I had laying around to stiffen the bed. The U-profiles should be starting right at the backside of the plate and be as near to the linear bearings as possible.
Here is a picture:
I had to change the Z-end stop screw in the back from 20mm to 25mm.
The amazing thing is, not only can I print large prints at full speed without oscillation, overall from small to large prints the results got A LOT better.
The hack is pretty easy. The biggest problem is to open the UM2 to demount the bed. That's a real PITA.
Overall I'm happy this turned out so good.
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I never used the 3Dprint option in Inventor. I always use CAD export as bbureau probably does.
I remember hat I had to change a setting when exporting STL for the first time. Check Options in the CAD export dialog. There is a unit switch there. Maybe that fixes it.
Which Inventor version are you using? I have created my piece both in metric & imperial units. Both of which seem to skew when importing into cura. If you dont mind could you give me a step by step of how you initially configured your system? I would be most appreciative if you could find the time.
Respectfully,
Bret
Same as you 2016.
1. Make a model in the system you like mm or inch.
2. Go to menu -> export -> CAD Format.
3. Choose STL as file extension
4. Click the Option button
5. change the units to mm
6. Export
You need to do Step 4+5 only once as inventor saves your selection.
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I never used the 3Dprint option in Inventor. I always use CAD export as bbureau probably does.
I remember hat I had to change a setting when exporting STL for the first time. Check Options in the CAD export dialog. There is a unit switch there. Maybe that fixes it.
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Jup wenn du dir die Firmware selber compilieren kannst, kannst du den wert in der Config.h ändern. Musst mal suchen zum selber compilieren gibt es anleitungen im netz.
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=3d+print+abs+cement
Ich würde es nicht auf der PEI Platte einsetzen, auf glas ist es aber DAS Wundermittel.
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Hast du ABS cement probiert? Ich drucke mit 255-260° und 100°C auf Glas völlig problemfrei damit.
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Achtung! Das Verbindungsteil mit den Löchern an der Seite ist extrem dünnwandig. Wenn du das im kalten zustand schraubst wenn PLA drin ist bricht es dir!. Erst heiß machen und dann VORSICHTIG raus schrauben.
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Ich hatte die besten Ergebnisse mit PLA bei 210°C + 60°C OHNE Kleber. Die Platte mit reinem Alkohol abwischen und das PLA haftet bombemfest.
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ABS Cement!
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Kein Kleber bei PLA nur mit Alkohol abwischen. Ich hab schon ewig kein PLA mehr gedruckt, aber die Bett temp war wichtig. Ich hatte glaube ich 60°C vielleicht kann das jemand bestätigen.
Brim ist unter unter "full settings" Und dann den Basic Reiter. "Platform adhesion type" ist das bei mir, dort kann ich Brim einstellen. Heißt soviel wie Rand oder Borde. Wie das genau übersetzt ist kann ich dir nicht sagen.
Die Nozzle sollte heiß genug sein, dass da alles flüssig ist. Da sollte nichts kleben und nachziehen. Wenn ich Zeugs an der Düse habe, dann streift sich das irgendwo ab, da es weich ist. Ist deine Düse sicher heiß genug?
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Wische mal die Glasplatte mit alkohol ab, das hat bei mir super funktioniert. Die erste Schicht sollte etwas schmieren, damit das Material angepresst wird. Wenn du kannst, stell einen "Brim" ein, der schützt vor dem ablösen.
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And again the next image is cropped WTF
Take a lock this is hilarious
cropped images:
http://i.imgur.com/UnCWxtH.jpg
totally fine images:
http://i.imgur.com/Cqt6JiW.jpg
edit:
lol at least i got my joke working:
http://i.imgur.com/lxuAzcC.png
https://www.youmagine.com/users/restinpieces
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I don't get it. This really drives me nuts. I made an image that should make fun of this. But no matter what I do it does not crop. Same file type, same size. One image crops all text away not matter what I try, the other image does not crop at all no matter what I do.
Edit: It also seems to buffer your image so if u upload a completely different image with the same name it just takes the first image with that name.
This is by far the $!"%$&§%&/%$&/ worst Avatar function I have seen in my whole time on the internet.
I like sites that use my avatar on Gravatar.com. I can setup one avatar and know it will look the same on all of the sites that use it. Update it in one place and they all display it.
This doesn't work on youcantimagine.com because there is no URL avatar you can only upload one.
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Ich habe noch mit in 0,3 Layer gedruckt, das kommt mir verdammt groß vor. Wenn du bedenkst, dass die Düse nur 0,4mm hat, dann kann da nicht mehr groß was angedrückt werden. Größer als 0,15 drucke ich nicht und hatte bisher keine Probleme.
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Die Madenschraube muss raus, diese klemmt beide Teile im Block fest!
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ABS auf dem einen mit PLA auf dem anderen Drucker zu vergleichen solltest du erst mal vergessen!
Wenn du einen Vergleich haben willst, druckst du PLA auf dem UM oder ABS auf dem Makerbot.
ABS ist schwieriger zu drucken. Mit ABS cement bist du schon gut beraten, damit drucke ich ABS problemlos.
Benutzt du das Orginal Ultimaker ABS? Bei ABS gibt es große Qualitätsunterschiede. Die einen sind total brüchig und bröselig, die anderen sind bock stabil.
Inwiefern ist die Oberfläche rau? Im Bild sieht es für mich völlig normal aus. Der Fehler ist underextrusion, das kann von verunreinigungen kommen, besonders wenn es nur eine Stelle oder Schicht im Druck betrifft.
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Same version, same preferences, nothing changed expect the model. And I confirmed it second start with this model it did not dip. I have the suspicion that the behavior depends on the distance to the starting point, maybe?
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Well.... this is the strangest thing ever. It seems to depend on the thing that is printed. The print I started a minute ago produced the blob but then moved to the start of the print instead of dipping first.
As soon as the print is finished I try again and see if this is consistent. This might be a bug in the end.
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Thats the first site i have problems with avatar. This thing seems to take a random tiny crop of my image and then scales it to oblivion. Take a look at this:
And thats the original:
even with bigger images it does that.
- Why is there no Info what would be the perfect size for an avatar image
- Why the hell does it crop an avatar? (O.o) that really baffles me
- Why the horrible scaling?
Avatars where the easiest shit since forums came along but this supposedly "user friendliness" makes a horrible complicated mess out of a simple process.
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Den Kleber nur sehr dünn auftragen. 100°C für die platte klappt bei mir am besten. Noch besser wie kleber ist ABS in Aceton auflösen und das dünn auftragen.(ABS cement)
Mit Brim drucken hilft bei ABS auch super
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Restinpieces, yes I was able to run a PID autotune and this worked until the heating block overheated and damaged the thermistor. Your point about the 40W heater vs the 25W heater is very important. Ultimaker engineering has confirmed via email that a 40W 24V heater will work just fine on the UM2. Good to hear that your E3D V6 system is working! How did you take the cap off of the original PT100 sensor or did you machine a new bore in the heating block to accept the PT100 sensor? Also, have you modified the inside shaft of the Heatbreak with a PTFE tube (4mm OD-3mm ID) to help prevent jamming when printing with PLA?
Im sorry to hear that.
I took a lock at the electronics and decided that modifying it for the thermistor was to much of a hassle. Also I wanted to go hot for some new material testing and therefor the PT100 was the only option.
So I drilled a hole in the E3D to accommodate the PT100. It worked but I didn't liked it because the PT100 was sticking out to much.
So I drilled a new one.
Here is a pic
I bought the E3D direct 3mm because I'm planning to switch to flex drive. So I have no PTFE inside.
How did u adapt the thermistor to the UM2 electronic?
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Thanks thats one confirmation that reflashing changes the startcode. I reset my UM2 recently because I tryied out my custom firmaware. I still dont understand how reflashing changes the startup behavior if nothing else is changed.
I thought there were pdf files before... I literally searched half an hour for these files.
Fix UM2 bed oscillation
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
He's talking about the screw from the Z endstop, not the motor one. It's just right under the bed platform.
Congrats, your solution seems to be pretty intresting ! Maybe some flatter aluminium profiles would be more acurate ?
Correct.
I used what I had laying around. But, the higher the aluminum the stiffer the bed. A wide but flat aluminium does nothing to the bed stiffness.
There is also the option to put the profiles on the top of the bottom plate, between the plate and the heated bed. But that would need some more fiddling around.