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restinpieces

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  1. He's talking about the screw from the Z endstop, not the motor one. It's just right under the bed platform. Congrats, your solution seems to be pretty intresting ! Maybe some flatter aluminium profiles would be more acurate ? Correct. I used what I had laying around. But, the higher the aluminum the stiffer the bed. A wide but flat aluminium does nothing to the bed stiffness. There is also the option to put the profiles on the top of the bottom plate, between the plate and the heated bed. But that would need some more fiddling around.
  2. omg. I go an get a new pair of glasses now I thought there were pdf files before... I literally searched half an hour for these files. Thank you very much!!
  3. I think I shorted my LEDs today :(No problem I thought. It's open source! Lets have a look at the schematic. Well I found the schematic... behind a several thousand $$$ paywall. Its called Altium. Does anyone have the ability to make a PDF out of the Altium files? That would really help me! (And probably some others, too) The files are here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1546%20ultimainboard%20V2.1.4
  4. Since I used my UM2 for the first time I always had the problem, that the bed started to oscillate. Mainly on large prints with long straight runs. Some print could be recovered If I got it in time and turn the speed way down (50-60%). But a lot of prints where lost :( Finally I got around to test an idea I had for a long time. I drilled holes in the aluminum plate and cut threads in the holes. Then I screwed some aluminum U-profiles I had laying around to stiffen the bed. The U-profiles should be starting right at the backside of the plate and be as near to the linear bearings as possible. Here is a picture: I had to change the Z-end stop screw in the back from 20mm to 25mm. The amazing thing is, not only can I print large prints at full speed without oscillation, overall from small to large prints the results got A LOT better. The hack is pretty easy. The biggest problem is to open the UM2 to demount the bed. That's a real PITA. Overall I'm happy this turned out so good.
  5. Which Inventor version are you using? I have created my piece both in metric & imperial units. Both of which seem to skew when importing into cura. If you dont mind could you give me a step by step of how you initially configured your system? I would be most appreciative if you could find the time. Respectfully, Bret Same as you 2016. 1. Make a model in the system you like mm or inch. 2. Go to menu -> export -> CAD Format. 3. Choose STL as file extension 4. Click the Option button 5. change the units to mm 6. Export You need to do Step 4+5 only once as inventor saves your selection.
  6. I never used the 3Dprint option in Inventor. I always use CAD export as bbureau probably does. I remember hat I had to change a setting when exporting STL for the first time. Check Options in the CAD export dialog. There is a unit switch there. Maybe that fixes it.
  7. Jup wenn du dir die Firmware selber compilieren kannst, kannst du den wert in der Config.h ändern. Musst mal suchen zum selber compilieren gibt es anleitungen im netz.
  8. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=3d+print+abs+cement Ich würde es nicht auf der PEI Platte einsetzen, auf glas ist es aber DAS Wundermittel.
  9. Hast du ABS cement probiert? Ich drucke mit 255-260° und 100°C auf Glas völlig problemfrei damit.
  10. Achtung! Das Verbindungsteil mit den Löchern an der Seite ist extrem dünnwandig. Wenn du das im kalten zustand schraubst wenn PLA drin ist bricht es dir!. Erst heiß machen und dann VORSICHTIG raus schrauben.
  11. Ich hatte die besten Ergebnisse mit PLA bei 210°C + 60°C OHNE Kleber. Die Platte mit reinem Alkohol abwischen und das PLA haftet bombemfest.
  12. Kein Kleber bei PLA nur mit Alkohol abwischen. Ich hab schon ewig kein PLA mehr gedruckt, aber die Bett temp war wichtig. Ich hatte glaube ich 60°C vielleicht kann das jemand bestätigen. Brim ist unter unter "full settings" Und dann den Basic Reiter. "Platform adhesion type" ist das bei mir, dort kann ich Brim einstellen. Heißt soviel wie Rand oder Borde. Wie das genau übersetzt ist kann ich dir nicht sagen. Die Nozzle sollte heiß genug sein, dass da alles flüssig ist. Da sollte nichts kleben und nachziehen. Wenn ich Zeugs an der Düse habe, dann streift sich das irgendwo ab, da es weich ist. Ist deine Düse sicher heiß genug?
  13. Wische mal die Glasplatte mit alkohol ab, das hat bei mir super funktioniert. Die erste Schicht sollte etwas schmieren, damit das Material angepresst wird. Wenn du kannst, stell einen "Brim" ein, der schützt vor dem ablösen.
  14. And again the next image is cropped WTF Take a lock this is hilarious cropped images: http://i.imgur.com/UnCWxtH.jpg totally fine images: http://i.imgur.com/Cqt6JiW.jpg edit: lol at least i got my joke working: http://i.imgur.com/lxuAzcC.png https://www.youmagine.com/users/restinpieces
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