codeczombie
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Posts posted by codeczombie
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Hi,
I searched the forum but didn't find any similar topic.
BTW, I'll have to print a box that has one side of 23cm (which is the maximum specified in the build volume measures), when I load the stl in CURA, it's grey, then I'll have to scale it and it becomes yellow when it reaches 22.1cm width.
Is there a specific setting to reach the maximum printable width?
Thanks,
Alessandro
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Thanks Braddock!
I should definely try it out.
I'm using colorfabb white filament at the moment because it's easier to smooth than other brands, but if you say this bronze it's even easier, it may be the right solution.
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That's an amazing piece, Braddock.
Are those parts of a bigger project on skulls?
It would be a great help to know how you eventually sliced and oriented the pieces on the bed of the printer, I see overhangs everywhere, it would be a nightmare to me.
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Great print, Mariem.
I'm using Loctite glue, don't know if there's something better, but it's fast and (to me) it's working great.
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Yet another masterpiece from Braddock, as usual.
Amazing, mate.
Shroomhead
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This is very interesting, GR5, I checked and it says to put it at 3000mm/s, mine was already at 3000mm/s do you think a lower acceleration would be even better?
The "ghosting" is usually called Ringing. You can fix it by lowering acceleration (but leave the speed the same). It shouldn't slow down your print much. Here are some experiments with photos where someone was able to get rid of it:
Post #8 here:
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Hi Mariem,
so maybe that squeek it's just temporary, I hope, never had that issue.
Did you try the change material procedure?
Since it will kind of "mega-retract" the material, you can check if it will make a "mega-squeek", so you'll know if it's an issue related to the speed of the loader.
About the print, it would help if you also post a screenshot of how you settled the supports.
I tend to avoid like death the overhangs, the always come out messy also at low angles by slicing the model in multiple parts.
It's a pain in the a$$ but for these kind of models I guess it's inevitable.
Shortly I'll have to manage a model similar to your actual one and I already feel the pain.
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Hey Lennart,
I alway use decimation master and go, at least, at 20% of the polygon count.
Then I check and eventually repair the STL file in Netfabb, just to be sure.
I don't know, maybe I'm not using it properly, but I just generate some supports and then play with the settings.
cheers,
cdczmb
Hey Zombie,
Is the meshmixer crashing because of too detailed models?
I dunno who, but someone not so very long ago said here to use decimation master in Zbrush. very helpful!
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OK, no big deal, it's just the retraction that pushes back the filament that has some friction on the holder.
Did you put the filament inside one of the two guides or all the way back to the rear panel of the printer?
Same issues with meshmixer, plus it crashes a lot.
Hey guys!
Here's a little video showing up the squeaking noise,
If I just help it a bit by pulling on the filament to loose the reel, it fix the issue for a lil while. But then as soon as it get tight again, the squeaking is back again and It's really annoying on long prints.
http://instagram.com/p/oV5UrpOfJ7/
I watched again the video and now I'm not that sure about my previous consideration.
Does the sound come out of the loader or somewhere else like the filament older?
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If I'm in a hurry and the print is consistent enough (not too small otherwise it will bend), I use a razor blade which I slide under the print on the perimeter, just enough to let it detach from the bed.
Be very careful, couple of times I got small cuts on my fingers.
BTW, it looks like I'm the worst one when it comes to glue the bed glass.
Hey guys!
Nah I actually waited that the print bed was completly cold before removing it, I didn't try to remove it before the cooling period was over.
Dunno why it sticked so much tho!
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Thanks Paul,
you know your amazing work is the reason why I bought an UM2.
Your point on keys is correct but I've been thinking if it wouldn't be easier to create it in post production rather than directly by the printer.
I'll do some tests with just keys printed at lowres, to see if I end up with something decent.
About the supports, I don't know, every time I try to print something with supports, it ends up with a "not that much better" result, maybe I do something wrong, I'd like to see some more detailed photos about other people results because sometimes I see people happy with prints that I wouldn't be so happy about.
Good points, and I love your stuff.
I had that scenario with the tail, but in that case, the supports were a perfect solution.
Keys are good if you want to produce resin kits, there's no guess work with lining parts up.
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Thanks Paul, I feel pretty bad now.
Well, at least my next one won't be a FFF/FDM printer.
Take a look at this... printing laying on it's back, so the entire back is an overhung surface. The little dots are were the supports were joined. Printed on a Form1
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Actually, after some tests, I must admit I'm not a huge fan of the keys because they ad new problems to solve.
If it's a negative key, it's pretty OK wherever it ends up, but when it comes to positive keys, here comes the troubles because if it's on the bottom, then you'll end up with a total overhang and sometimes it's just easier to glue two perfectly flat surfaces and then get rid of the gap by sanding and "epoxing" it, operation that you'll need to do anyway with keys.
I also hate supports, they slow down too much the print so I simply end up by slicing the model in order to get as less overhangs as possible.
I did this way on a puppet without using keys and it ended up quite ok.
It's made of 2 pieces for the body and other 2 pieces for the arms.
Forgive the links flood but it's just to show an example (that maybe it's more on the postproduction side).
Here you can see the line between the top and the bottom
http://instagram.com/p/m5GLTTFdNy/
after I glued/epoxy putty/sanded/primered it:
http://instagram.com/p/m-z2djFdAj/
first copy after I molded it:
http://instagram.com/p/nLq-snldH9/
The overall surface came out smoother than expected.
The only "key" I used is on the arms and it's not actually a key, it's just a boolean of the arm into the sleeves, so it will be easy to attach the arms on the body (once painted) without having to deal with seams
http://instagram.com/p/n0TyW9ldHS/
BTW, this one was printed at 0.06 and it's something like 15cm tall so I had to sand it a lot, since then I'm printing at 0.04, I'm lazy and I just dream of a world with a simple primer pass to get a smooth surface, which is pretty much all you need on a good print at 0.04.
Sorry for the long post, hope it helps.
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Thanks gr5, I changed the settings as suggested, also lowered the nozzle temp from 220 to 210, printed the head and found out that some issues are gone, less hairs and bumps.
Later I'll reprint the body (hairy piece) and see what happens, it takes 16 hours so I'll know (and let you know) tomorrow.
For the layer resolution, fact is that I need a supersmooth surface, previously I printed at 0.06 and had to prime and sand too much, I prefer to wait more hours for a print that needs less sanding than having a faster print that will let me lose days on post-production.
One thing I can't stand (but have to accept) are the overhangs, damn, they look so awful.
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Hello, I printed with a brand new PLA from Colorfabb (as mentioned on the title) and it ended up with a good result but with a lot of "suspicious" very thin hairs all around the piece.
Getting rid of those filaments was pretty easy, but I'd like to understand if this is an issue due to a wrong setting or just a regular kind of side effect.
I printed at 220°C/65°C then I lowered a bit to 215°C/65°
I'm now printing ad 210°C and it looks like it's making less "hairs" but it's a different piece so it's not an accurate comparison.
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"Dat beast!" (paracit.)
sorry for the base. :(
So, all the parts for this guy are printed, just need some cleanup, priming and seem filling. I began printing the base, but it's going to be 325mm in diameter and a combined print time of about 80 hours! So, I think I'll leave him as is... I have other projects to get on with!
1/4 of the base I started to print. Aborted.
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Totally agree with braddock.
IMHO, I have to say that, with Zbrush, I found out that an intuos, in terms of usability, is totally comparable to a cintiq (which I'm using).
When I switched from intuos to cintiq, I had some problems inside Zbrush because of my (drawing) hand that was partially hiding the model.
But, with 2D drawings, a cintiq is unbeatable and not very comparable to an intuos.
I can't imagine using anything but a wacom or cintiq with ZBrush.
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Thank you so much!
I totally agree about your considerations, prior to the UM2 I was checking for a SLA printer, since the resolution is way higher but I just found 2 models B9C and F1, not that easy to get in Italy.
BTW, except for some issues, I'm very happy about the UM2.
I love your characters and style of your work!
Yeah, small parts are tricky, partly why I'm printing this one so big... the difference between the first arm I tested at small scale, and the arm I printed at this scale looked like they came off different printers. Also, the larger you go, you can drop the layer height and still get great detail. Parts above are 0.06
I think the UM2 and FDM in general are better suited to larger models, so great for large scale maquettes, film props etc, but small stuff, parts that are only 10mm tall etc... I honestly think a resin based printer is the way to go.
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You're welcome, pal, it's great because you have amazing sculpts wonderfully printed.
Means a lot in terms of inspiration/motivation.
Thanks for the hint!
As soon as I'll be back from a small tour in Switzerland, I'll try my brand new (delivered today) unopened Colorfabb filament with these settings.
I did a couple of tests today, on a small hand, with the usual Ultimaker blue PLA and it came out kinda like "no.hope.".
I also tried to put the overhang supports from 45° instead of the default 60° but it didn't change that much.
thanks mate, btw, my overhangs have improved a lot printing with colorfabb at 210 degrees and fans on full after 0.5mm or first layer.
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Wow, braddock!
Amazing piece.
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Maybe it's the IG quality but, looking at your photos, I feel like I'm getting a 10% out of your 100% from my UM2.
Looking forward to see your "not so good results".
I also have overhang issue, to an extent, I just accept I'll be filling and sanding.
I'll post some not so good results now.
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Braddock, are you telling me that, after 1 month trying to fine tune for a decent print, with Colorfabb it will all be lost??
Looking at your prints on IG, I see you almost don't have overhang issues, I really don't understand how it is possible.
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I have found that white PLA is a little more difficult to work with. But colorfabb makes great filament so hopefully this will help.
Yes, at least I'll have some different filament to test on, waiting for the one from Ultimaker, sooner or (probably) later.
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Holy!
Trying it right now with new specifics as you suggested: 190°C nozzle and 50°C build plate.
Will tell you in an hour or so.
The start of the print looked way smoother, slicing of the model looked way faster than previous Cura version.
Let's hope for the best!
Build volume unable to print 23cm width box
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Thanks!
I raised it to 240mm and now it's OK.
No brim/skirt, I hope it works and doesn't fall out of the building plate.