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handyman

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Posts posted by handyman

  1. -------I personally don't think airing your beefs in public forum is the right way to get resolution. --------------

     

    This is Buying, Ordering and Delivery of Ultimaker part of ultimaker forum , where If you have problems, delays and comments about how it works, you can post it and and try to make it work better.

    I just shared my experience, and read about others here, and wait for help, and voila, its here, thanks to Sander.

    If you dont comment how things are working for you at ultimaker is impossible to improve, and I dont think saying it loud is a bad think.

    I am very happy with my printer, I think ultimaker2 is the best out there, but sales had been a problem when I bought it and now with this critical spare part.

    I ordered at ebay a replacement, after 10 days waiting for an email from ultimaker saying it has been sent that has not arrive yet, and because I need my printer working, I dont know if it is official or not, They shell it as an ultimaker german teflon coupler, will see if it works.

     

  2. Hi,

    14 days and a teflon coupler ordered from Ultimaker has not any notice of a tracking number.

    I post a ticket but not very helpful so far , the answer has been that it takes at ultimaker to ship from 5 to 10 days, well its 14 days, weekend and not tracking number yet.

    Is this normal? I mean, a teflon coupler is small, can be sent via a small parcel and is not a difficult thing to manage.

    Ordering from ultimaker has been a pain as everybody Know, and can be read here in several threads but I didn't expect this to happen also with spare parts...

    by the way I ordered also from here

    http://es.aliexpress.com/item/-/1959140480.html?recommendVersion=1

    and they sent them the day after ordered and are on their way here.

     

  3. Thank you!

    I already drill it and cut it but it broke...

    I ordered ten days ago a new teflon coupler from ultimaker but I am still without any notice from them and the printer has stoped printing.

    I am learning to print 3d with my ultimaker but also to have lots of patience...is normal to be waiting for so long for something that can be sent in a small parcell? I think that for ultimaker it is...

     

  4. Hello everybody,

    Thank you for your help here. I have the same issues describe and they begun after printing with colorfab XT.

    My teflon coupler is deformed at the tip, and I have ordered a new one, but I am stoped with the printing, could I cut the teflon coupler a bit, to get rid of the deformed part and use it while waiting, will it work?

    Thank you

     

  5. Hello everybody,

    I am having problems with the extrusion and the extrusion test fail at 4 or 5 mm/s, I solved it partially loosening the head screws and touching the g code as describe to raise motor amps to 1500mAh.

    It goes now to 7mm/s without problems, from here is under extrusion everywhere.

    My question is, do I have to touch the gcode in regular printing if I see under extrusion ?

    I have already clean the nozzle and nothing seemed to be wrong. My ultimaker worked flawlessly till now. I just give a try to colorfab XT, never printed abs, only PLA from ultimaker or innofill.

    Thank you

     

  6. I also printed it with PLA from igo3d. On the first test the PLA was cracking. So i scaled up the holes with a rasp.

    Did you mean in the description, that you need to print the Base 105% or the top cover? Because i printed the top cover 105 %, but this was totally oversized. So i printed it in 101%, perfect fit :cool:

    Attached some pics, really luminous colors :mrgreen:

     

    Very good print!! and nice colors!

    Yes, I scale the top cover a little for better fit, I did print the mobius one, I haven't tested the go pro one.

    the mobius is design to put the mobius camera with some kind of vibration insulation, you can find several in thingiverse or youmagine. this is the one easier http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:385286

    I didnt have problems with the arms, You need to press fit them on the base, to make the arms strong, a slow and high quality print is needed. 0,1mm 50 mm/s infill 100%

    hope this helps, post videos if you fly it!!

     

  7. That is pretty sweet. What is the approximate total cost to build it?

     

    The cost depend very much on the components, motors can be cheap or expensive, I use cobras 2204-2300 Kv, 18 Euros each x 6, esc I used were expensive (18 euros each) but can be 10 and work well ( 12 amp blue series from hobby king), al fpv gear included glasses which you can use in other projects are about 500 euros.

     

  8. I just tested this for a colleague but unfortuantely the "press fit" method on PLA body and arms is not working.

    The PLA will crack.

    So i think this is only working with ABS or XT.

    For complete PLA you need to print the arms a little smaller or rasp something out.

     

    No you don't have to.

    I printed mine ( several prototypes) on PLA innofill which is the same I guess as ultimaker filament.

    You have to press fit the arms inside de base with a rubber hammer, it takes a while but they fit well.

    I did used colorful xt but it work out the same.

     

  9. Hello,

    This is a printable hexacopter project, free to download from thingiverse or youmagine, for fast forward flight and acro on FPV.

    It has motors tilted forward 10º, a very rigid frame with good air flow.

    We design it to keep the battery inside the frame so it can be flown with the cover to be more aerodynamic

    Information about set up is at the end of the video.

    Hope you like it and give it a try, ENJOY!!

    You can grab it at thingiverse and Youmagine here:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/io-fpv

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607681

    https://vimeo.com/115294510

     

    io copia.JPG

    io.jpg

    i2o.jpg

    6o.jpg

    5o.jpg

     

  10. well I did several things to improve noise on my print head when I received my UM2, before going to change the rear fan.

    The metal holder of the lateral fans was making a noise because fans were lose, I was unable to screw them because they were over tighten , so I just hold them in place with hot glue, and it work!

    I remove the fan stickers that were eccentric and that improve vibrations and noise.

    Remove cables from air flow, hold them lateral with hot glue.

    Then I change the rear fan as describe, just cut the cables and re solder the new fan to conserve that jst connector. You have to give attention to fan rotation when you connect he fan again, as changing polarity changes direction.

    Hope this helps

     

  11. Hi,

    I did ordered the fan gr5 sugested from ebay, it came from a german shop "it-tronics.de", it is very easy to remove and plug the new one, you dont need to remove the 4 long thumbscrews at all, just slide up the black mesh and move down a little all the cables, including the bigger ones going to the nozzle, remove the two screws for the fan and you have it.

    All I can say is wow!! I have know a clear idea of whats the difference between noise and silence!!!

    Now when I switch on the UM2 there is silence, before was really noisy, now I dont feel I need the rear fan to be off when UM2 finish printing, it is just no noise now!!

    So go on and change your fan if it is noisy!

     

  12. I have had the same problem you have, I tried everything you have already consider, and I ended reseting the UM2 and leveling the bed to my best.

    And now I have glassy finish on the bottom, printer settings are 210ºC, 75ºC bed, 20 mm/s first layer, first layer thickness 0.3 mm, layer height 0.1

    Which are the settings cura give to normal printing in quick print mode.

    Hope this helps

     

  13. Hello everybody and thank you for your help!

    I have read also all the pages and give a try to my ultimaker2, I tried the ultimaker PLA blue that came with the printer at 210 C. You have the image below.

    I have the filament guide and what I did from the begining was to apply grease to the spooler support to facilate its rotation, it seems to work well...

    IMG 4795

    IMG 4797

    IMG 4799

     

    Then I tried the innofil3D from iGo3D pla natural, at 210 C, and here you have the result...

    IMG 4802

    I am a very proud user of UM2, ultimaker2 rocks!!

     

  14. Hope this help!

    http://www.jove.com/video/50250/3d-printing-of-preclinical-x-ray-computed-tomographic-data-sets

    I usually do dicom conversion to stl with a planing surgery program called Dolphin imaging, but can be done as describe in that web site as well with free programs as invesalius, netfab, meshlab and mesh mixer.

    Ask your radiologist to record the 3D eco as dicom files.

    I like invesalius more than image J. Is easier to use.

     

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