annotatedsnark
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Posts posted by annotatedsnark
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Nice printers
Thanks for info. Is that last photo after any cleanup at all? Did you use retraction? What settings? -
UPDATING after my successful if risky hot end change on my UM2.
I will upload photos and more details later, but it's important to me to notify anyone else who is about to attempt this, of a piece of info I feel crummy for having had to stumble upon :\
The "set screw" that goes into the nozzle block invades slightly into both the horizontal holes in the block, and so is keeping in place both sensor and heater. Pulling them out should only be attempted after the set screw is removed.
This info seems key if the sensor and/or heating cartridge really are fragile (as nallath said), and it was never mentioned to me, even tho I've gotten two email replies from UM support since I told them I've ordered the replacement parts and am about to try replacing... :(
Maybe that's why it's named "set screw"?
(For me, the screw was stuck, and I didn't focus effort on removing it because I didn't know its dual function. Not sure how, but the heater cartridge still just slid out with zero effort and thankfully the sensor came out without damage after 2 minutes of gentle pulling and rocking with pliers (holding on to parts that seemed less fragile than say the wire connection). Only when installing the new nozzle I saw the small bumps the screw makes inside the holes, noticing them because they wouldn't let me push the heater and sensor all the way inside.)
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Great info,
but what about videos for how to replace parts,
ESPECIALLY THOSE SENSITIVE WIRES that you've mentioned?
I happen to have a UM2 hot end kit on the way...
(Maybe the kit comes with instructions?
Not that it would be an excuse for not posting any and all maintenance guidance you can think of,
as soon as you can produce it,
if not sooner...)
BTW - On your Software page, how about posting occasional estimates for when the next version update will be ready?
Thanks for you efforts!
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Hi Daid, and thanks for your thoughtful replies.
Software (Cura)
1. PLEASE stop automatically slicing,
Obvious? No. Not at all. Why do you want to do extra actions? The slicing is ran as background process, as lowest priority. So it does not impact system performance, it does not slow down the GUI (as it's run as 2nd process) and your GCode is ready before you are. The engine is started 0.5 seconds after a setting is changed, so you pretty much have to be faster then 0.5 seconds if you want to be faster then the current implementation.
I pretty much love this system, and you'll have to do a lot to convince me. A lot more then saying "It's obvious" (Alpha-Spock: "It's only obvious")
(Slow downs due to rotation/scaling of complex objects is not due to the slicing, it's actually the GUI that is calculating stuff on the GUI thread. Fundamental problem which I am addressing in the PinkUnicorn branch)
You know what, you've almost convinced me, but will it really never be optional, even in your new omni-configurable version?
See, I think your reason for not making it optional has become too emotional, sometimes you gotta give the users what they want, even things that seem illogical to you. Think of how peaceful your life could be if you just solve this "issue"...
2. Please add the option to determine the amount of shells/floor/roof in numbers instead of only in mm.
Working on a new GUI, code-name "Pink Unicorn" which has a lot more options, and where you can choose which level of setting control you want. You want to set the number of top layers? It can do that. You want to set the whole outer shell as just 1 value, it can also do that.
You can configure exactly which settings you want to see, and some settings "mask out" other settings. Screenshot:
http://i.imgur.com/BQnUtHk.png
Great job, I should say, screen shot looks amazing... Can't wait...
3. Please do something about thin walls being skipped during slicing, and/or disconnect this from the "shell thickness" setting (there are also bugs in this relationship, that I've mentioned in a previous forum post).
This is a bit like asking a car to fly. It's a fundamental thing.
Ok... but are you aware of the bugs? (try slicing a 0.4mm wall, with shell set to 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1 and 1.2... at least in 14.03 it behaved in very unexpected ways)
4. In the installation menu, please add a prompt that removes the previous version.
This is requested quite often, I haven't looked into it yet.
Low priority, I'm sure.
Firmware
1. First, congrats on fixing the initial-feeding routine.
You're welcome, but it was a bit of a quick-fix. Also thanks Illuminarti for finding the big bug I made.
2. About the start and end routines: are you absolutely sure retracting the material from the head at the end of a print is best?
Yes. Leaving material hot in the hotend is bad for the material, it also drips out, if you just let it sit there, in which case you need the initial extrusion anyhow.
I assumed you had tested it thoroughly, just wondering.
3. For the end routine: why not add an on/off feature for keeping the side fans on full blast to help the prints and plate to cool? (the head will be centered, and/or loose, and will should stay close to the plate by only lowering the plate slightly at this stage. Only when cooled, the plate goes all the way down.)
Problem of leaving the head on top of the print is that it will drip on your print, and you cannot take off the print as the head is in the way. You also cannot always lift the head more, if you use the full Z height of the printer.
I see. Anyway, I haven't had any dripping problems yet, but I have only been using PLA, and maybe got lucky with its quality.
4. In all the temperature-related menus, the starting value should not be zero, but rather the last target temp, or the top one of last x times the menu was accessed, or ever simpler, just use the current temp. (I have some pains in my hands, some days I count every key stroke and turn of the UM2 menu wheel...)
5. Please add a "quick-heatup" option for the heated plate. Reasons obvious. Let's say it could stay in this "hot and ready" state for ~15 mins before shutting off? For the shortcut, maybe even use a long press of the wheel.
I've heard a lot of "long press" suggestions already for a lot of different features. For obvious user-interaction-design reasons it's bad to have a long-press option. But together with question 4, I'll think about it.
Cool.
Another thing that has been suggested, is to start heating up the bed as soon as you enter the print selection menu. This can save you some time in heating up the bed, or, if you leave that menu open, it will heat up the bed. However, this isn't really obvious to the user that it is happening, and might scare people...
Not a bad idea. Maybe it can start after ~10secs of inactivity in the print menu, and even let you know it's happening on the LCD with a temperature prompt that stays there until you touch the wheel again.
6. The "time left" estimate on the LCD is beyond useless, esp with complex prints. It would be much easier and better to have Cura write its estimate into the output file and just have the machine count down from that.
Yes. It's a bit crappy. It has to account for a lot (adjusted speeds, incorrect estimates) I'm pretty sure there is a bug in there.
Right. And is using Cura's estimate a viable option? Just curious.
7. Oh, also, regarding the "change material" routine: Currently it heats up to 260 (I'm assuming) and pulls out slowly and then quicker, the ideal conditions for creating long thin strands of material that are sometimes left over in the tube. It should yank the material quite fast at first, as well as let the user set the pull-out temperature (let's say between 180-260, so as to avoid accidental damage).
I've tried this, didn't work. You can "yank" a lot faster with your hands then with the feeder. The filament change routine is actually something I spend quite a lot of time on. But I never got the strand removed 100%. (It heats up to the set material temperature)
I'm sure it's tricky, yes. For now, what I do is heat up the nozzle to 170-190, yank a bit by hand, then use the "Change" routine to help with removing the rest of the material and inserting the new one. The only annoying parts of that process are the switch from "heat nozzle" to "change material" and the associated wait time, as well as the wait time until the new material is high enough up the tube to let it accelerate by pressing "Ready". (I found that if I give it about 6cm it reaches the head with some speed still, and has no problem passing the small internal "lip" that has given me much trouble at first... esp if the tip of the filament was cut in the wrong direction...)
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The request for switching off the autoslicing is not new; please see this post with Daid's answer.
Is there an adult reason not to let the user choose??
From what I can see in that post, the feature is not optional "because f*** you", more or less.
Just because the engine is fast enough, and all the kinks and bugs were fixed, doesn't mean you HAVE TO FORCE IT ON THE USERS...
Maybe leave it always on in the non-advanced mode of Cura?
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The white indicator in the corner of the extruder sets the tension that is applied to the filament to press it against the knurled wheel. The lower the indicator mark, the higher the tension.
It is adjusted by inserting a hex screwdriver in the hole above it, and turning the screw. You turn the screw anticlockwise (as seen from above - 'unscrewing it') in order to increase the tension.
Thanks kindly!
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Dear development team, hello!
The UM2 has given me much happiness since I got it 3 months ago.
These are my most important comments. Most are very simple to implement.
I do appreciate your attention:
Software (Cura)
1. PLEASE stop automatically slicing, just make a button like everyone else, or at least make the auto-slice optional. I think the reasons are obvious.
2. Please add the option to determine the amount of shells/floor/roof in numbers instead of only in mm.
3. Please do something about thin walls being skipped during slicing, and/or disconnect this from the "shell thickness" setting (there are also bugs in this relationship, that I've mentioned in a previous forum post). If a wall is 0.3mm, I'd rather have a single 0.4mm shell wall than nothing... or at least make a prompt, warning about the skipping.
4. In the installation menu, please add a prompt that removes the previous version.
Firmware
1. First, congrats on fixing the initial-feeding routine.
2. About the start and end routines: are you absolutely sure retracting the material from the head at the end of a print is best? Why not let it cool in the head, at the mouth, and just adjust the initial feeding accordingly?
3. For the end routine: why not add an on/off feature for keeping the side fans on full blast to help the prints and plate to cool? (the head will be centered, and/or loose, and will should stay close to the plate by only lowering the plate slightly at this stage. Only when cooled, the plate goes all the way down.)
4. In all the temperature-related menus, the starting value should not be zero, but rather the last target temp, or the top one of last x times the menu was accessed, or ever simpler, just use the current temp. (I have some pains in my hands, some days I count every key stroke and turn of the UM2 menu wheel...)
5. Please add a "quick-heatup" option for the heated plate. Reasons obvious. Let's say it could stay in this "hot and ready" state for ~15 mins before shutting off? For the shortcut, maybe even use a long press of the wheel.
6. The "time left" estimate on the LCD is beyond useless, esp with complex prints. It would be much easier and better to have Cura write its estimate into the output file and just have the machine count down from that.
7. Oh, also, regarding the "change material" routine: Currently it heats up to 260 (I'm assuming) and pulls out slowly and then quicker, the ideal conditions for creating long thin strands of material that are sometimes left over in the tube. It should yank the material quite fast at first, as well as let the user set the pull-out temperature (let's say between 180-260, so as to avoid accidental damage).
Hardware
What does the tiny white "switch" in the top-right corner of the material feeder do? I'd love to know, and the manual should say.
Thanks again, sincerely,
Joe
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Good so far. You can't print a wall thinner than the nozzle of course.
What? Can you rephrase this? This
1) doesn't sound like what cura doeas
2) I'm not even sure what you are trying to say.
I've printed .41mm thick walls using cura set to .4mm nozzle size. But what happens at 1.2? What? I don't understand.
yes, I agree, that was very unclear, and probably had an error or two. Only now had time to check up on this thread...
my issue was with a thin wall, i was trying to create a pocked for a magnet and use the thinnest wall possible.
below 0.4mm cura skipped it, didn't slice it. i think it was the same for 0.4mm.
then at 0.41mm... *pause to rerun tests with simple part*
ok, something is very wonky here.
see image link below. this part has a 0.41mm wall on the right, and 0.4 on the left (same for slats, but those i'll ignore right now). i tried values from 0.3 to 1.2, and at various stops either one or both walls were skipped (0.41 less often).
that's what i was trying to say in that prev post, but then i also thought it might be multiples of 0.4, but no, it's kinda random... 0.7 shows both walls, so does 0.69, and 0.8, but 0.9 is missing both... etc.
hmmm....
http://i.imgur.com/PgJaLZl.png
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Hello
gr5 - that's an inspiring concentration of the exact info i was looking for about curling / bending / separating prints... i can't thank you enough! also can't wait to try the abs juice, once i get to abs prints... also, any chance that a thicker infill could have an effect on curling?
ind-des-uk - i'm very glad to see you managed to get the thing printed.
as for clearance - not sure which snaps u mean, but 0.2mm sounds ok. i usually use 0.2 or 0.1, but only if the slots are printed in x/y. anyway, didn't u do small tests for the snaps, before printing a multi-hour part?
also, a tip - if you use painter's sticky tape (the white-ish paper stuff that usually has weak glue and can be easily removed without leaving marks) to cover the glass (or just the area to be printed over) the PLA sticks really well to it, especially if you calibrate the first layer to smear or semi-smear.
it holds so well that i don't even need brim when i use it. when heated this "weak" glue becomes much stronger.
but, there are drawbacks - large flat things sometimes stick so well that even after cooling i had to struggle with them for a while, inserting a thin metal scraper under the tape around the edges... so i've actually proffered it for prints with a small base that i want to stick really well. also there's some residue on the base, which washes off quite easily with warm water, and a bit of residue on the glass, which is quite easy to remove by dabbing it with a fresh piece of this same tape...
more testing is required.
(haven't even tried with ABS yet)
continued good luck!
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About the original topic:
I think this can be considered a bug in cura 14.03.
I've been trying to print a very thin wall. Anything above 0.4mm gets printed fine, but anything below gets skipped in the layer cutting.
The bug is in the relationship with the wall thickness - the 0.41mm wall will be skipped if the wall thickness is higher than 0.4, but once it gets to 1.2 it's not skipped anymore. Why is this?
And in general, why are these tied together? If I need a thin wall in one place but I don't want the whole part to have a super-thin shell, what am I supposed to do?
J.
Thanks for info. Is that last photo after any cleanup at all? Did you use retraction? What settings?
Ultimaker 2 Printhead Fans Parts replacement list
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Good thread,
but where's the input from UM??
And why are the fans still missing from the spare parts store??
This is getting ridiculous, or, I'm very misinformed.
Please help?