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  1. These guys developed a dual kit with a .3 and .5 nozzle for rapid infill, if I remember correctly. http://robox.cel-uk.com/robox/rbx1-dmkit.html Maybe there is a chance to find out how they managed to cool everything to right temperature, as it seems their nozzles are as close as the ones in the um2.
  2. Recently found this kickstarter project developing a 5 nozzle printer. See the video at the bottom of the page, they use water cooling to reduce the temperature. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ordsolutions/5-color-material-3d-filament-printer-made-in-canad I don't actually know their nozzle sizes though. I'm interested in why you would need to go to 1.75 to use water cooling?
  3. This is a pretty cool tech overview on the lotus effect used in technologies
  4. Maybe this lotus coating for glass and ceramics is interesting
  5. That is what I was talking about and I thought a little too far into future by directly printing ceramics with nano printers, i have seen articles about nano printing and they were able to e.g. reduce the size of electric currents to a scale where your eye would only see a clear plastic sheet, that would produce enough energy for an led. But I don't have that link anymore.Hopefully soon it may be possible to even print nano ceramics structures to create a lotus effect directly by structuring the material. But that's just for future dreaming But coating ceramics with Teflon would be an idea, I guess it would also make the design a bit more expensive though.
  6. Hey guys I am no chemist or physicist and still dont know enough about 3D Printing Tech so bare with me if the following is a stupid idea: The lotus effect used in teflon I think could now also be achieved with other more heat resistant materials by using nano 3D Printing. Why not replace the teflon parts by ceramics or any other material with even higher temp resistance. Dont know whether there are any other reasons to use teflon or this nano printing is financially possible etc.etc.etc, just a thing that came to my mind.
  7. drato

    Nylon 618

    Hey guys, I have good news too. My Nylon Spool arrived and my clamp printed perfectly, no bubbles at all, smooth surface, even the overhang of the holes where nice and smooth. I also didnt have any issues with grinding. While printing the new clamp New Clamp Left to right: New Nylon Clamp, old ABS Clamp, first failed Nylon print New Clamp Old ABS Clamp (the parts at the holes came of and I had to super glue them in place First failed Nylon Print The new clamp in use, slightly bendable but strong EDIT: changed the Video Size for better preview Printing
  8. drato

    Nylon 618

    I'll also try that as soon as the spool arrives, thanks for the suggestion.
  9. drato

    Nylon 618

    @pm_dude: hmm probably I got bad samples from the store I bought the filament from, it was just a small test sample. I already ordered a whole spool. I'll try another print as soon as it arrives and then compare a second print after I have let the filament sit in my desiccant container for a while.
  10. drato

    Nylon 618

    Original Taulmann Bridge Filament Extruded first part of filament which had enough time to demoisturize and is very clear and strong Clear part gets more and more bubbles, getting weaker more bubbles, after this the extruded material gets more white due to lots of bubbles and can be easily torn apart But the print looks overall good, guess I was lucky that the bubbles didnt distort the peace that much, but I guess, stability is not given that much. I tested this by trying to pull the test strings I extruded: the clear first part is hard to tear the bubbly parts are easy to stretch getting very thin and then can be torn apart like silk strings or spider webs.
  11. drato

    Nylon 618

    Ok my print did "finish" because I aborted it, as it allways stops extruding the nylon after several layers of printing, this is purely random. One of my prints it was happening earlier due to the spool getting hooked and the feeder grinding off the material and not transporting anymore. But now it just stopped although I made sure the filament does'nt get stuck somewhere before feeding into the tube and the feeder again did start grinding on the filament. I also noticed that when I wait a while with the nozzle heated to extrusion temp and my filament close to the nozzle, the first few parts that are close to the nozzle are extracted perfectly clear without any bubbles. After that bubbles startet to form. I am sure this is a definite sign of humid filament as the parts close to the nozzle had time to demoisture before extrusion, due to the heat arround the nozzle. Then extruding at the same speed the rest that did not have enough time to demoisture because its directly fed through the nozzle is getting the crackling bubbles. Im gonna try to get the nylon dry with my container and desiccant packs and then try a new print again. Concerning the feeder suddenly grinding the filament and not feeding anymore, I am not sure, maybe this is linked to bubble producing. As the nylon seems quite flexible there is probably a lot of tension in the feeded filament and the bubbles may give the need for more pressure to get the filament through the nozzle, as the feeder is still constantly pushing the filament in the tension gets higher and higher and suddenly the filament is grinded so much that the feeder cant grab it anymore. But thats just a guess.
  12. drato

    Nylon 618

    Hey guys, I currently test the Taulman Bridge Nylon with my UM2 and am printing the clamp part of this camera mount here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29258.%20I%20first%20printed%20it%20with%20ABS%20but%20the%20clamp%20broke%20where%20the%20big%20clamping%20screws%20go%20through%20due%20to%20too%20much%20tension%20when%20clamping%20down.%20Currently%20I%20collect%20my%20timelapse%20video%20data%20with%20a%20super-glue-fixed%20clamp%20that%20hopefully%20lasts%20till%20the%20current%20print%20with%20nylon%20is%20successfully%20finished%20:mrgreen: I also just use a Gluestick and the print is sticking perfectly to my glass bed. It also seems to print quite nicely (have to wait for the print to finish). For the Taulman Bridge Nylon I print with 240°C, 50mm/s and material Flow at 107% just like ABS. I just use the standard ABS bed temperature of 90°C. My Brim is 30. I'll add the timelapse video somehow when I'm done. What worries me is the crackling sound that from time to time occurs. Sounds like bubbles exploding: is this due to the moisture of the filament? I thought that heating the filament at the moist parts creates little airbubbles when the water is expanding by the heat. Am I right with that guess? How can I efficiently get my Nylon and other materials dry again but not over-dry? And what materials have to be dryed/kept dry (like wood, brick, PVA, Nylon)? I recently bought a tight closing container and reusable desiccant bags for that purpose. I already read the post on storing materials, they all have different opinions. Is it just sufficient to store water sensitive materials like PVA, Nylon, Wood, Brick in those containers with the bags and they will get dry enough with those bags but not dried out? Does anyone have any experience with such bubble-popping :shock: problems? And what about the flexible PLA from the UM Store? Cheers Drato
  13. Thanks a lot for the report, helped me by playing around with my settings Welcome to the community. Cheers Drato
  14. drato

    Lieferzeit aktuell

    Hehe ja kommt mir bekannt vor, habe bei meinen Designs eben noch die Wand verstärken müssen und vor 2min habe ich den Druck meines ersten Steampunk Ausstechförmchens gestartet. Die ersten Testdrucke mit den auf der Karte enthaltenen Objekten habe ich schon durch, alles läuft tutti. Unglaubliches Gefühl diese Drucke in den Händen zu halten! Na dann an alle die noch warten, es lohnt sich Geduld zu haben. LG Drato
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