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  1. Here are some other photos showing the same problem before I started shimming the corner(s) and changing the mismatched bolts. I can print in the center of the bed with great accuracy. Here's the project I'm currently working on with T-glase. Everything turned out perfectly. Now, I have one part left to complete the project and I'm stuck due to this rear left corner problem.
  2. Thanks for sharing, UIT! I have spent the entire day attempting to get my bed leveled for large prints. Failure after failure. After replacing the bolts to a matching set and seeing the problem still lingering, I measured the leg that is not level on my UM2. It’s the front left and it’s 2.54mm taller than all the other legs that sit level. It’s very interesting the the build plate problem seems to be tied to the front left adjustment corner (which affects the rear left where my problem mainly exists) and this is also the same corner that the UM2 frame isn’t level. After trying a
  3. Upon closer examination the unit came pre-built with different hardware! The bolts that do not sit flush are a hair different than the bolts that do sit flush! They appear to be M3, so I'll see if I can find a new set at the local hardware store. Has anyone else had this issue?
  4. I noticed that the spring compression bolts are not flush in the rear center or the front left of my unit. Everywhere else they are flawless. Perhaps this is part of the leveling issue. I have removed them and re-installed without any difference. It appears to be a tolerance issue with either the bolt production or the CNC on the aluminum bed below the glass. Here's a set of photos of the front left (not flush) and front right (flush): https://www.dropbox.com/l/AGLzA3XEd8CZcntqOE1gau
  5. I'm currently working through this with support. Simon aka illuminarti is being very responsive, although I have yet to correct the problem after several hours of adjustments and test prints. I might try a little shim in the corner as suggested by gr5 as a temporary fix. Has anyone else had any luck correcting the warped foot? Most posts on here suggest that it's cosmetic and doesn't affect the print, but it seems clear (based on our experiences in this thread) that it has a larger effect when trying to print across the entire print bed surface. As gr5 posted, slightly loosening all the fram
  6. I'm experiencing this same exact issue with my new Ultimaker 2. I have leveled it countless times and also tweaked it on the fly, but it's never perfect. My unit did arrive with shipping damage to the frame--- the right rear leg isn't level and requires a shim to prevent the unit from moving around on my desk while printing. I'm getting great prints in the center of the build plate, but just like UIT I experience issues in the right rear corner of the build plate when doing larger prints. What was the final solution here, UIT? I like the idea suggested by GR5, but I would like to avoid takin
  7. Excellent testing, gr5. I'll have to try PLA without a glue stick next time. For now, I'm hooked on how well the Nylon Bridge material from Taulman is printing with hairspray. It leaves such a smooth finish on the bottom layer. Far superior to what i was getting with a glue stick and I no longer need to use a brim. The object pulls right off the build plate at the end with ease. I'm keep the HBP @ 95 degrees throughout and letting it full cool before removing the print. I'll give ABS another try in a few days. For now, the Bridge material is my new go to. Crazy strong, easy to print, and wit
  8. I'm currently printing with Taulman Bridge nylon using the hairspray and an adjusted build plate (closer to the hothead extruder) and it's working better than before (when I thought I already had perfect results with "Bridge"). Is there a reason why I couldn't use hairspray for all filaments? Would it simply be overkill for PLA?
  9. I have read about the hairspray and ABS juice, but I'm quickly beginning to think ABS isn't worth the trouble of all the added build plate hassle and ventilation. I was ready to throw my spool of ABS in the trashcan after multiple failed attempts last night. PLA and even the Bridge Nylon has been so easy to work with compared to the ABS. During my ABS attempts last night, the brim layer does have gaps between each line and the adhesion is awful. I'll give the hairspray a go today. If that doesn't work, I might skip ABS printing altogether and send my critical parts to Shapeways for their SLS
  10. Good news! I'm successfully extruding the ABS. I'm still on the early layers of the brim, but this is further than I got the last 2 attempts. Turning the temp down to 240 and manually turning it down to 0 while the heat bed warmed up to 100 degrees seemed to work well. Fans turned to 0%. Great tips, gr5. Unfortunately, before I could finish typing this I have noticed the initial brim layer isn't sticking to the glass anymore. I'm using a glue stick and I also have it warmed up to 100 degrees. The first layer was fine and then it all pulled loose and started to make a mess on the build plate.
  11. I have been using the default ABS setting on the Ultimaker 2 -- which is 260. I'll manually bring it down to 240 and try again this evening. Looking at the specs for the ABS I'm using, I see 230-240 as the recommended temp. Why does Ultimaker default the ABS setting to 260 even though lower temps work better? I do have metric digital calipers and the ABS never exceeds 2.9mm, so the specs appear to be accurate (2.9 +/- .005). Thanks for the help.
  12. Very interesting, Kris. I'm surprised to see that my ABS filament clogged immediately the second time I tried to use it after thouroughly cleaning the original clog. I'll repeat the process a 3rd time and see if it works.
  13. Hello all, I'm on my 4th day using a new Ultimaker 2. So far, everything has been working flawlessly with PLA and even Bridge Nylon (custom settings). I have done about a dozen prints with great success. Today, I tried to use ABS for the first time. I switched from PLA to ABS. I'm using black, Pro-Series ABS from Matterhackers (I'm in the US). http://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d-printer-filament/pro-series-black-abs-filament-3.00mm. It is advertised as 3mm, but when I take measurements it's really around 2.9mm. I started with the default ABS setting on the Ultimaker. It loaded fine, but t
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