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clarkman

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  1. Hi everybody; We are just getting started, but having issues with feed and flow of filament. We are experimenting with 10x10mm cones to get our feet wet. Using all default settings in Cura (latest version), and light blue PLA shipped with the printer, filament oozes from the nozzle until the print starts, it makes a layer or two and then flow slows/stops. Pushing filament by hand, it comes out. Cancel print, head starts oozing again until cooled. Feeder purring and advancing - check Head fan was coming on and dousing temp, ruining base of cone - turned off Press feeder spring wheel against filament - variance but not working Tension/Spring screw tighten and loosen - not much diff The odd thing is that last week it made the cone. Under extruded (gaps), but a cone. Now it starts out well, but ends in little mounds of under extrusion. Head temp is holding. What have we done wrong? Thanks
  2. Hi everybody; We are still plunking away at getting our Ultimaker Original+ kit going, but are having issues with feed and flow of filament. We are experimenting with 10x10mm cones. Using all default settings in Cura, and PLA shipped with the printer, filament oozes from the nozzle until the print starts, and then scant. Pushing filament by hand, it comes out. Cancel print, head oozes until cooled. Feeder purring and advancing - check Tension/Spring screw tighten and loosen - not much diff Head fan was coming on and dousing temp, ruining base of cone - turned off Press feeder spring wheel against filament - variance but not working The odd thing is that last week it made the cone. Under extruded (gaps), but a cone. Now it starts out well, but ends in little mounds of under extrusion. Head temp is holding. What have we done wrong? Thanks
  3. Thanks Erin and Robert. Was down with eye infection, but I'm back! Email sent
  4. We got set back months by the failed filament heater: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18520-heater-doesnt-work-original-kit?page=1&sort= $50, for a $5 part, arg. We got gouged, and a long lead time, to boot. Now the Zstop limit switch was found to be defective by the Cura self test, and my multimeter reveals that it stays open circuit regardless of being pressed, unlike Xstop & Ystop. We want so badly to make our first print! Does Ultimaker sell replacement parts (or even better, replace a part that was part of the original kit and doesn't work?). Or do we forage out on our own and get gouged again? What is the fastest way we can get a replacement Zstop limit switch? Thank you! clarkman
  5. Hi everybody! Finally got my defective filament heater replaced and fired our Ultimaker Original+ unit up for the 1st time last night! What a build! We youtubed the entire assembly process, refined to a tee in 8 parts, that will be posted soon. Last night we tried our first print, but the bed was way too low. The extruder emitted, the head moved in the shape of the part, both heaters worked. Tried searching for the answer here, but I got thousands of unrelated hits. Some questions: What have we missed? Why is the bed 15cm below the extruder when the print starts? Also, the sound that the bed makes when traveling downwards is very different than when traveling upwards. More of a moan. Is that normal? (We completed the paper adjustment of the bed) Thanks!
  6. Thanks SandervG; I already bought a replacement heater from www.fbrc8.com, a nominally $5 part for $50, arg. We took it for a spin for the first time last night, but the bed was way too low. I'll post about that separately Clark
  7. I know that somewhere I can find the part number since this is open-source hardware, am I correct? The part itself is not marked. SandervG, can you get me a replacement? Thanks.
  8. OK, finally got to my building to test. Using a 24VDC battery, I confirmed that extruder fan works. But filament heater is broken as it has ever been. Heater bed works. We learned that with Ultimaker+ on its side, we can see red LED lighting to indicate power being applied to heater, 24VDC is measured across terminals of circuit board. But we can hold the filament heater in our fingers (it's dead cold) until the Ulticontroller LCD goes blank and displays 'Heating Failed.' We measure open circuit across filament heater. There is only one conclusion, the filament heater is broken. I can try and disassemble it, but that seems wrong. I need to get a replacement filament heater. Warranty, whatever, I don't care. I want to get past this so we can start to use the printer. Thanks.
  9. Thanks neotko! That link confirms for me that 24VDC is the fan power, so I can use my power supply to test the fan, and the firmware commands and my oscilloscope to test the circuit board outputs. Happy New Years!
  10. Hey SandervG! Thanks and Happy New Year! Just getting back from vacation, here's the summary: 1. Filament heater is open circuit. With it connected as shown in photo, no heat is produced to the touch, and UltiController announces it failed. 2. Heated bed works. Both UltiController and my fingers feel the heat. 3. Fan does not spin up. I tested it with Ulticontroller and with a multi-meter. It is open circuit at the end of the leads, and at the solder point where the leads attach to the fan. I don't know about the PT100, but I will test it. The head is dis-assembled at the moment, and my next opportunity for testing is tomorrow. Cheers
  11. Thanks neotko! I am worried that when my multimeter tells me that I have an open circuit across the two heater element wires, that it won't work no matter what it is plugged in to. I don't want you to waste your time! Thanks!
  12. Sorry SandervG; You wrote: Please try to use the heated bed through the UltiController and see if that works. I thought you mean the heater in the print head again. My bad. The heater in the print head definitely fails through UltiController. Get it through my brain, glad I looked more carefully, you said heated bed! This I have not tried, and cannot until Sunday. Will report back on that. cheers!
  13. Dis-assembled, no apparent damage. So, before I pull the wire all the way out, how can I get a replacement (hopefully quickly)? Thanks. Also we weren't sure, (maybe we didn't read far enough), should the fan on the head have responded and turned on when using the UltiController? It did not budge when I rotated the speed, blade is free not blocked, is this a 2nd problem that we have? It also tests open circuit at the circuit board end of the wire, and when the leads on the fan itself are probed. What is the voltage I should use to test it with? I tried the Sunon site for maglev, and am guessing 24V, but I don't want to pull the sheet metal screws and risk them losing their bite unless I have to (so I can read the whole part number). Again, thanks! Clark THANKS!
  14. Thanks! I did and got 'Heater Failed' or some such msg on the blue lcd. Which is not surprising given that others got 23ohms on the element on ours is an open circuit. I'll do a detailed inspection again tonight, have not dis-assembled the head yet
  15. Hey SandervG, thanks! Verify: We built an 'Ultimaker Original+' kit. Never passed the first run wizard. Here's photo:
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