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titanoid

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Posts posted by titanoid


  1. Lustdurchsatz! :D

    Die seitlichen Lüfter müssen PWM- geeignet sein, ich glaube da hat bis jetzt noch niemand was passendes gefunden...

    Aber allein der Austausch des hinteren Lüfters war bei mir ein Unterschied wie Tag und Nacht!

    Ich dachte erst, ich hätte beim Anschließen was falsch gemacht, weil nix zu hören war...

    Also, wen das dauernde Dröhnen nervt, unbedingt austauschen!

    Ich glaube in den neueren UM2 ist größtenteils schon ein leiserer Lüfter drin.


  2. Ich glaube, Dein "Husten" bedeutet, daß der Druckkopf eine Reihe weiterrückt, sozusagen.

    Das muß so. Hier zu sehen:

    Pfeifen.thumb.JPG.f3810a0e0904870e97994f472c858cd0.JPG

    Du solltest auf jeden Fall versuchen, die Düse freizukriegen. Bei 240° verbrutzelt PLA doch schon fast... Was die Düse weiter verstopft...

    In der Apotheke gibts Injektionsnadeln/ Kanülen. Gr. 22 sollte 0,36mm stark sein.

    In der Düse gibts im Laufe der Zeit immer wieder Ablagerungen von verkohltem Filament oder auch Staub, der mit eingezogen wird. Regelmäßig den atomic pull anzuwenden hilft da!

    Pfeifen.thumb.JPG.f3810a0e0904870e97994f472c858cd0.JPG


  3. Zu 1.: Hast Du schon einen

    versucht?

    Zu 2.: Alle Zahnriemen straff? Sitzen die Zahnscheiben fest auf den Achsen?

    Achsen leicht geölt?

    Was mir bei Deinen Druckeinstellungen noch aufgefallen ist: Die Leerfahrt- Geschwindigkeit muß sehr viel höher sein, 200 oder sogar 250 mm/s. Das sollte die ganzen Fäden reduzieren.


  4. I'm sorry, that was just a 2min google search...

    I am as excited as everyone regarding new exotic filaments and post processing tricks.

    Just getting goosebumps if some people experiment with serious chemicals without proper care and protection.

    Being a goldsmith and craftsman for about 20 years, I was playing with a lot of different materials and chemicals, so there's not much that can scare me.

    BUT, you have to know exactly what you're dealing with, and how careful and focused you have to be.

    Remind the happy-go-lucky handling of asbestos over decades, and today they come wearing those biohazard space suits to refurbish old buildings.

    What I learned is better being too careful.

    But never stop tinkering, of course!:D


  5. I thought the broken image link issue had already been solved?

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/10789-form1-experience?page=1&amp%3Bsort=#reply-124030

    Perhaps I mixed this up...

    The loading time of picture rich posts has improved, but is still not as fast as in the old forum.

    Besides, I found a new workflow through the notification bell and found the fixed top bar much more usable than the touchy behaviour before, nice one!


  6. Kannst Du bei dem Thermometer den Emissionsgrad des Materials einstellen? Wenn nicht, würde ich der Messung nicht unbedingt vertrauen... Ich hab zwar auch keine Lösung für Dein Problem, aber wenn Du versuchen würdest, bei 40° unter Soll zu drucken, würde nix aus der Düse rauskommen.

    Hast Du mal versucht, Deinen Nozzle-Durchmesser in Cura auf zB 0.35 statt 0.4 einzustellen?

    Oder wahlweise den Materialflow am Drucker auf 105%? Vielleicht reichen auch schon 102%.


  7. Ive made this automata as a birthday present for a good friend of mine.

    Its called "Flight of thoughts"

    IMG_2510.thumb.JPG.3ea44772b26a2f3c499fd7100d5a8862.JPG

     

    We're still waiting for a video of this masterpiece!

    It's very obvious you are a perfectionist, but please, just turn the crank and hold a smartphone next to it, just as a teaser!


  8. As I understood it, it's the Wall Line Width, yes. I thought about that too... Do we Olsson bros need the nozzle size as an extra setting?

    When I wanted to print a vase or something in spiralize with .8mm nozzle and 1.2mm wall, I used to set nozzle and shell thickness to 1.2 in old Cura. The Olsson block manages the overextrusion very well. This was a hint from Didier Klein here.

    To get the bottom of a vase watertight, UltiArjan found out to set the nozzle size a bit lower in order to get the printlines of the bottom closer together. Then receive the required wallwidth through increasing flow.

    All these parameters can be twisted in the new UI, if I got it right.

    On the other hand we talk about overextrusion, so I'm confused, too...

    Where are engineers when you need them?


  9. One of the old Cura versions did that too in spiralize. Think it was 14.07.

    So no luck with this...

    As the new Cura Engine was built to be enhanced by plugins, I'm hoping that someone who codes will be able and willing to add a new spiral plugin.

    Oh, and while we're at this: some more dirty experimental parameters could be added, like this.

    Just dreaming around8)

    • Like 1

  10. With the Olsson Block and a .8mm nozzle, I do a lot of spiralized prints with 1.2mm walls and .6mm layer height. Good for vases and lamp shades, and I like the fat shiny visible print lines.

    But in an otherwise absolutely flawless print this visible scar sucks indeed!

    1. So is there a workaround?

    2. I didn't test it with the new Cura so far, has someone?

    3. And (sadly) is there another slicer that does a "clean" spiralize?

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