melkolo
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Posts posted by melkolo
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Important to note is that HIPS does not dissolve in water but you need some other liquid (D-Limonene) which you also can not (If I am not mistaken) just dispose down the drain.
Question what core do you use if you use HIPS...the AA or BB core?
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Hi Bob
That looks great!...Was this print done on the UM3 Can you share your start-up script. I purchased S3D a while ago and can never get it to work properly with my UM2. I would also like to use it on my UM3 Thanks
Mel
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Hello All
Quick update, Erin from fbrc8 support saw my email I sent out late Friday at home, she took time out of her Saturday and went to the office and called me. She couldn't believe some of the pictures. Long story short after seeing the pics she walked me though how to access where the screws that were loose and reinstall them. Took about an hour. Thanks to Erin I'm up and running. Great support effort from fbrc8...
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5
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My original thought was it was an extra screw left behind but the more I moved the unit around more screws appeared. Again total of 5...the table is very very loose. Not worthy / capable of printing. I shot a short video with my iphone, not sure how to post it here....any suggestions?
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Just received my UM3 When laying it on it's side per instructions to install the spool post (plug it into the bottom a couple of screw rolled out from under the build table. As I stood it upright more screws rolled out a total of 5 screws and the table itself it very loose. Not a happy camper. As anyone else experienced this? Not having a assembly manual it looks likes a some major disassembling is required to get to where these screws need to go...being the weekend all I can do is look at the machine. I'm hoping the re seller will swap /exchange the unit....
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Hello Everyone
Who can share information about Tinker Firmware. Does it have advantages over Cura? Is it difficult it install? Can Cura firmware be re-installed?
Mel
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I noticed this ref. past posts .....I do you adjust down?
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Thanks...I'll keep you updated.
cor3ys
Much better....see pics
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Thanks...I'll keep you updated.
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Hi cor3ys
I'm running the latest firmware, 15.02.1 Currently the shroud will actually go over the clip....I had to remove the shroud because I started the re-leveling process and didn't think at the time to take a picture to show the problem. As for the amount of clearance I would say a 1mm. So instead of lowering the shroud 8mm ......7mm would work better for me, not sure about others. I have a seat of Solidworks not sure if I can convert the STL to SW format to rise it, their's a limitation on file size / triangles SW will convert. What program did you use to modify it?
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Printing the UM robot was the only real test i carried just to see if the cooling was up to making both sides look good, because the right hand side normally suffers with the standard fan shroud. here is a link to Sprints web site you can see all the testing he carried out seems quite extensive.
Yes i also feel that could be improved, maybe that could be version 2. For now i have left that alone and is as the original design by Sprint, i only adjusted it to work with Anders heater block so now there is a much bigger air gap between block and shroud to stop heat deformation of the shroud and making access for a quick nozzle change..
cor3ys
I printed and install the fan shroud, but I ran into problem you maybe able to help me. When I went to re-level the print table the shroud be lower when the head comes to the front of the table it comes up to and over the clips that hold the glass down, thus not leaving any room for adjustment. Did you experience this if so what was your fix / work around.
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Thanks for the feedback, did exactly what swordriff described......bummer on the sensor...it's still good just stuck in the past.
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OK
I received the new blocks and nozzle....When switching to the new block the heater cartridge released / came out with no problem....but the temp sensor didn't. I do two spare....problem is how do I thread this back to the control board under the UM2....Is there a certain procedure? Is there a easy way to do this. Please advise...thanks in advance.
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I'll take two....just let me know when they are available states side. I'm in Texas
Mel
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What I would like to know is where is the dual extruder?
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Try http://www.dynamism.com/....I%20purchased%20my%20UM2%20here%20and%20additional%20material'>http://www.dynamism.com/....I%20purchased%20my%20UM2%20here%20and%20additional%20material'>http://www.dynamism.com/....I%20purchased%20my%20UM2%20here%20and%20additional%20material'>http://www.dynamism.com/....I%20purchased%20my%20UM2%20here%20and%20additional%20material
http://www.dynamism.com/
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Thanks for the feed back.....Album set to public.
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Does anyone know what this extra wire / plug is for?
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Hello
Looks like Markus had the key comment, well it worked for me, that's is doing the "factory reset" after doing the update. Everything is running fine (14.12.1), currently in a 8 hour print nearing it end.
Thanks
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Hello
I received this error message after updating the firmware to 14.12.1 from 14.09. After restarting UM2 and trying to print again, again the error message. On my third attempt after the printing started I went to the tune option and selected the temperature and watched it....my setting was 225 and it steadily dropped to 217 then the error message came up 8 deg difference. So then I decided to re-install version 14.09 firmware. Started a new print set at 225 no problems. I do want to mention after starting a new print with 14.09 and switching to the temperature to watch the temperature it was having a 8 deg. swing above and below my 225 but no error message. After a while 10-15 minutes of printing the temp finally stabilized within 1 deg. What I don't know was that temp swing always there from the start? Also I just finished an hour print with no issues. A question I have is, does the new updated firmware have a tighter tolerance causing the error message, and second at the start of the print should there be that much of a swing in temperature? Any thoughts?
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Many people put the spool on a lazy susan on the ground, or just unwind the whole thing.
It also differs from manufacturer. Never had issues with Colorfabb as opposed to cheap nameless brands.
Thanks for the feedback, the interesting thing is I'm having this problem with Ultimaker filament...I will look into Colorfabb.
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I'm a newbie here, I'm been looking the forum and have not seen anything mentioned about a problem of filament getting tangled up on the spool, especially on long prints. I have several prints of 10 hrs. plus and have trouble completing them because the PLA being springy as it unreels the filament will cross over each other and eventually become tangle over time. Doing a print unattended for me is a challenge. Any suggestions how to correct this, (keep the material from getting tangled up).
Thanks ...any feedback will be appreciated.
Regards
Mel
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Try makergeeks.com
Dual Head Print My first with S3D
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
I have tried a number of times with my UM2 with no success mainly at the beginning of the print, positioning and purging....would you mind sharing your start up script?
Mel